DT125R ARCHIVE

pauldt125x · DTR Member

dt125x 2007 help

fastandy · DTR Member

look for a wire going into the block with nothing on the correspondind connecter on the other side!
cut the wire out of the connecter and earth it!

Spartan · DTR Senior Member

Hi guys, thought i'd just revive this old post instead of starting a new one. I too have a 2007 DTX125 and just want check i have earthed the right wire.

I have 4 wires going in to the connector block: black, orange, green/red and black/green. 4 wires then go in to the speedo: 2 black wires, orange and green/red. I snipped the black/green, crimped it too another piece of wire and attached it to the frame.

Does that sound good?

-- Edited by Spartan on Saturday 6th of February 2010 01:35:07 PM

craigbulmer · Guru

yeah sounds the right thing to do.
flying now?

Spartan · DTR Senior Member

Cheers bud, i think i can tell the difference lol, definately revs abit higher. Wanna make sure i did the right one here, the black/green wire that i snipped was the only one that did not continue going into the speedo, in it's place was just a black wire. Does that sound right?

The only problem i've got though and it was doing this before i earthed the wire, I can't seem to have the throttle opened fully at a certain point when going from low to higher revs as it causes the bike to stutter as if it has hit the top of the range, but if I open it up slowly it revs much higher and past the point where it started to stutter. It's abit of a head scratcher for me lol, what do you think?

craigbulmer · Guru

hmmmmm, maybe your carb is a lil bit dirty might need cleaning out. The only time my bike slutters is if i get past 8k revvs but hardly have any throttle on it doesnt like it, wants to drink the fuel not sip it

not sure about the speedo bit, not got a DTX just no its the green/black wire and needs to be earthed to the frame

Spartan · DTR Senior Member

Cool. Now mate this may sound silly but could you point out to me which part is the carb cry

Is it simple to clean too?

Thanks

Spartan · DTR Senior Member

Just an update, ignore what I said about there being a problem. Have since been out a couple times and have sorted it, I think it's just down to me not riding it right...noob!!!

Anyway, yes earthing the wire has made a big difference in fact, it does indeed rev higher and I can get to 60 alot quicker than before.

Have also removed the air snorkel, it sounds more throaty and I think it might have added to performance.

The rubber bit that I removed seems quite small, it was right under the seat and just came out afer abit of a tug, is it really counted as a restriction?

-- Edited by Spartan on Saturday 6th of February 2010 07:37:01 PM

craigbulmer · Guru

yeah thought it might do ;)

the air snorkel doesnt really make THAT much different, lets in about a third more air than before and sounds louder and throatier

ive never done my carb,
but you have to remove all panels, tank, then the two circlips holding the carb in, then take carb apart and clean it .. have to use carb cleaner not water tho, water in fuel system is baddd

Spartan · DTR Senior Member

Yeah I like the sounds, can't wait to go riding again though :)

Are there any problems with having the air snorkel removed?

craigbulmer · Guru

tbh, im not sure, no more crap will get in the engine because of the air filter, maybe it depends on the air/fuel mixture .. someone will no better

Spartan · DTR Senior Member

No probs bud, this is what i removed from underneath the seat...

...a good close up for ya of my hand too but that is the air snorkel isn't it and nothing else needs to be removed?

woll · Guru

I think craig has set you in the right direction the only other restrictions are in your exhaust, if you haven't already then you can cut your exhaust open and remove them then re weld it. Or change the exhaust system. Im sure gaz will be along at some point to tell us where were wrong :D

Spartan · DTR Senior Member

Sweet so all good so far, sorry but it's all a learning curve for me at the moment.

Gutting the stock pipe sounds straight forward but my welding skills are pretty much none existent, my fear being that it could all go pete tong and i'll end up with a bum front pipe haha...but saying that do you think a novice like me could give it a shot. My next step was the exhaust system, a full dep. Thanks for the advice fellas btw, it's much appreciated :)

craigbulmer · Guru

we all start somewhere :D:D

if your welding skills are none existent id say find someone who will do it for you, i paid a guy £20 and he cut mine open and then rewelded it, there are people around to do it

you want a descent job on it because the weld is on the fat part of the pipe, most visible. or buy the full dep ;) bit pricey tho!
the best performance comes from a gutted standard pipe just to let you know ;)

Spartan · DTR Senior Member

Cheers craig, would like to get to the point were I can strip my bike and put it back together...blind folded, the projects section makes it look easy haha, but in all seriousness would like to teach myself to maintain and replace parts without the aid of a garage.

Didn't think of that, I 'll have a look around before considering a full dep. Did you get yours welded at a local garage or something?

Yeah the dep system is quite pricey, i found one for £245 from dirtbikebitz.com, i did not realise they were that much.

I tell ya one thing i am going to pick up, some hand guards. My hands get fekkin cold when out riding lol and i'm hopin they might help to deflect the wind!

All the best

-- Edited by Spartan on Sunday 7th of February 2010 12:19:02 AM

.... · Guru

hi mate id leave the airbox snorkel on as its designed to keep the crap out the engine and if it made any differnce being off it would'nt be noticeable apart from louder noise under your seat,as you have a 2007 your restrictor is at the front of exhaust as it leaves engine, there is a pipe going from a nipple to airbox, pull pipe off then cut the nipple off and get it welded, this will derestrict the exhaust you have

Spartan · DTR Senior Member

Hi, ah right thanks yep I found it i think, it's a silver pipe connected to the the front pipe of the exhaust. I'm guessing an aftermarket exhaust does not require that pipe going back to the airbox either?

I re-fitted the snorkel but then i thought, well there is a sponge filter there, wouldn't that stop any crap from going further?

.... · Guru

the filter will get full of dirt and suficate the engine, sounds like you've found the right pipe

Spartan · DTR Senior Member

Ok I see, sorry for late response have been away for a couple of days. Going to get myself a new dep silencer and just wanted to double check something. I'm buying from dirtbikebitz.com, are the DTRE and X similar because on their listings they have it as DT125RE/X and 10 squid more for some reason. What do you think:

http://www.dirtbikebitz.com/dep-2-stroke-silencer-p-7263.html

Cheers

Seiki · Admin

It's legit

Spartan · DTR Senior Member

Cheers bud.

Spartan · DTR Senior Member

Any tips for taking off stuck mounting bolts?? smile

I have a Dep tail pipe on order so was having a good look at how it all went on. I cannot for the life of me begin to get one of the bolts to loosen up, I have bent my allen key doing so!

Have tried some WD40 on it and tried getting a spanner to the nut on the otherside but it will not let up. I think it's really stuck in there because of rust maybe. What do you think?

Edit: This appears to be the case for most screws and bolts on the bike cry

I was browsing the 'how to' section and looking at aligning the powervalve. Out of curiousity i wanted to see the insides of mine but can't even get the allen head screws out. My mind boggles haha.

-- Edited by Spartan on Saturday 13th of February 2010 07:29:40 PM

.... · Guru

mole grips m8 failing that drill em out

-- Edited by DTR125CRAZY on Sunday 14th of February 2010 12:54:01 PM

craigbulmer · Guru

yeah if the bike hasnt been taken apart for a long time then the screws are abit rusty, dont like coming out at all.
with the powervalve bolts, i put the allen key on and then used a spanner aswell to get more leverage on it, you will here a crack and then they are actually very easy bolts to get off lol

to get down to the frame with all the plastics and exhaust off, i had to drill 3 bolts i think, pain in the arse

.... · Guru

or just sell it to me, easier lol

Spartan · DTR Senior Member

Thanks for the advice guys. Yeah I don't think it has, i will give that a go though with the spanner craig.

@DTR, sorry mate what do you mean by mould grips, just googled it and checked the ebay but i don't think i found anything. I'm guessing some form of gripping tool or something haha.

.... · Guru

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Brand-New-7-Inch-Locking-Pliers-Mole-Grip-Grips-Clamp_W0QQitemZ390153873131QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Hand_Tools_Equipment?hash=item5ad6fba6eb

Spartan · DTR Senior Member

ah right thanks bud they look very handy i shall get one :)

An update for you craig, something definately cracked lol...my allen key. That's two i need to replace now...doh! Rust has proper bedded them in I think.

When drilling them out does the drill bit need to be the same size as screw thread or slightly smaller?

.... · Guru

only just smaller than the hole for the allen key, drill head until you reach the lower part of the head, then take what parts you need off then mole grip the rest off