Right i've got myself a large amount of wire, should be enough haha. Do i need to solder it cause i dont have access to a garage or anything i just have hand tools and a car park :(
It's only temporary anyway will earthing it to a bare bit of frame do the same as the battery? Least that way it's slightly better till i get professional help with it haha
haha mate used the two wires which came with a multimeter ;) lol, but yeah bullet connectors or soldering is best, i used bullets mate, but if not you could always twiddle the wires together to extend it temporarily but then ya gonna need to crimp those little circle things which you find on the ends of the battery leads if you want to connect it up to the battery :) lol,
cant believe the difference after doing it, just went to rye and back and **** me does it fly lol
Another satisfied person And I dunno whether it is better to earth it directly to the battery If you have a solid connection to the frame then theoretically it should be about the same resistance so should have the same result
But in saying that for me it did seem better to directly connect the wire to the battery.. Placebo effect in action maybe? You tell me
Seanyftw wrote:No one has mentioned that the wires aren't actually in the clocks themselves, i've now buggered up my clocks the trip counter vibrates and moves with the revs so i've got to see if i can correct that now, (shame as it had counted 3k miles since i've owned the bike :( )
I have in about 5128945614556 other threads asking the same question Wasn't there supposed to be a 'HOW TO' section and people were going to post video's/pictures If I remember correctly Toy said he was making a video for replacing a clutch cable since someone had snapped theirs and was going to take it to the shop and let them do it? Chuff knows what happened to that idea
What's worse is actually searching for something, finding a thread that's called exactly what your looking for and you go to click on it and it says it's been deleted or it's invalid
I know I know, we're limited to how much data the forum can store before we have to pay, just saying that's a little thing that bugs me
Hello lads, getting my front standard pipe gutted tomorrow and was wondering if i should do anything to the rest of the bike to keep it running nicely, for example up jetting, different carb, remove snorkel etc??
I have the RE, erm as far as im aware when i get the pipe done all of the main restrictions will either be un-restricted or removed, i.e. already earthed the wire from the clocks, removed emissions cleaner, dep stubby'd silencer instead of standard, think that's it.
If it helps im running the stock carb, br8es plug, standard jetting snorkel attached and air box inst modified :)
So from that would you say its a good idea to change anything and if so what to please?? ;)
much appreciated (sorry if there is another post similar to this which i highly likely there is, did have a look but couldn't see anything lol)
still need to find out all of the benefits with changing the jetting and carbs lol, one day ;)
You should change the jet to 240 or 50, Most likely 40, since 40-50 is pretty usual with a gianelli exhaust for example, and yes remove the snorkel. And just for safety you could change to a br9es.
Sorry nordt but this is what my manual says mate, routine maintenance page 23 says the spark plug for TZR is either a BR8ES or a BR9ES and the DT a BR9ES plug
May be different for later DT's mind, as it says for DT'S 97 onwards go chapter 8, just looked in there nothing about plugs, but noticed that the TM28ss carb had a #240 main jet as standard, so i'm presuming that is when they changed over from a #210
-- Edited by NEV on Wednesday 23rd of May 2012 02:19:18 PM
If it helps im running the stock carb, br8es plug, standard jetting snorkel attached and air box inst modified :)
So from that would you say its a good idea to change anything and if so what to please?? ;)
still need to find out all of the benefits with changing the jetting and carbs lol, one day ;)
Might want to change your plug Reef, I'm sure that the standard DT plug is a br9es, but better still bang a NGK Iridium Spark Plug CR8EHIX9, on it, should run a tad better then.
Thanks for getting back to me, would you all say to do what nor dt said and change the standard jets to 240/250 and remove snorkel but go with the spark plug which nev recommended??
no offense to you NorDt, just want to make sure this is the best set up for the bike??? :) lol
Br8es is the standard. Just check the book :P Thats why i would think its safer to drive with a 9 when you do a little tuning on it, But the plug nev said is proboably better, The plug i reccomended is just the same as the standard one, just not as hot.
Nah mate 3 DTR manuals all say the same, spark plug is a BR9ES must be different for the DTRE is all I can think of, due to the different porting in the earlier models maybe burn hotter engine
Aye DTR 2004 Onwards, isn't that the DTRE just like I said, i brought up 3 DTR manuals with the BR9ES FFS, but not owning a DTRE I'm a bit short on DTRE manuals, if ya get my drift?
Yeah you did say. I just wanted to confirm anything for future reference. But knowing people they will just ask the same old question again and again and again. PS have you seen my thread I made just for you ;)
Bought 2 of those spark plugs so when they come through the post ill do a plug chop and post up what it looks like ;) once again cheers lads, you also got ctrl, alt n print screen, "Use Ctrl+Alt+Print Screen to capture the active window only" that's probably better to use ;)
Har...har....har, I can't help being old school, I remember the day my mate got a computer and game for his 16th birthday, got it all out the box, hooked it all up to the TV, and hey presto ping-pong