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DT125R Forum -> PLUGS -> Spark plug/more noob questions?
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Reef


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Spark plug/more noob questions?
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Still slowly learning the basics as only 17 and the dts being my first bike but been reading into some threads which have got me replacing/maintaining some bits and got some questions with it lol....


1st question is seen that you need to frequently change spark plugs so ive jus gone an bought a ngk br8es for the re and jus wondering if these spark plugs are already adjusted for the RE, i.e 0.7-0.9mm?? (i know, i need to get a wire thick gauge lol :)

2nd question is what do you think of the condition of the original spark plug, looks pretty bad in my opinion but is that due to potential previous owner not replacing it??

3rd question which you can deffo tell that im a noob is that it states in the service book to clean the surface of the spark plug gasket and its mating surface, question is how do i access the gasket and what should i clean it with??

photo 1.JPG

photo 2.JPG

Lol ill probably be posting more questions so bare with me but ill always look before i post to save duplicate threads and questions

Any info would be appreciated, Cheers lads



-- Edited by reefvodka on Wednesday 11th of January 2012 04:28:09 PM

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NORFE


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RE: Spark plug noob questions?
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howdoo....all the gasket is is the metal ring around the base of the threaded part
its a crush seal if u like

and for the sake of a cuple of quid and piece of mind i normally put a plug in ever few weeks when my bikes are on the road
every week i put 1 in my motocross bike when i went out on it, but as long as its kept clean it should last a long while,personal preference really

that plug has loads of carbon build up probly been in it ages pal

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Reef


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ahh i see lol, you learn something everyday eh

oh right cool, yeah like you said there not a lot to replace :)

yeah thought it didnt look too healthy, ill stick in a new one tomorrow if i can find out before if the spark plug will need adjusting

and thanks for replying mate, much appreciated :)



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NORFE


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forgot the part where u asked about the gap...
its recomended you check it b4 fitting but iv never checked one or altered one in the whole time iv had bikes
so each to there own on that 1 aswell geeza

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DT-R_bradders


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reef dude iv never adjusted a sparkplug on any bike iv had its always worked fine out of the box for me, n yea tht plug u got there...chuck it lol urll prob find itll be a bit more responsive with a fresh plug aswell mine seems that way anyway lol

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Reef


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sweet ill jus stick on the new one tomoz without checking it, that saves a bit of money :D cheers lads

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stroker


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Looks like its burning to much oil lots of carbon build up

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Reef


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ah cheers mate for looking; what can i do if it is?? :) think im gonna stick in the new one and check it a few weeks later to see if it looks similar as like norfe said its probably been in there ages

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stroker


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Yea thats the best thing to do then go from there, what you can do tho is check that the oil pump cable is all ok and not sticking. ive known for cables not to seat so when at idle it over oils

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Reef


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thanks mate, ill check that in a few weeks if it does it again :)

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Reef


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Me again, today i changed the spark plug and battery to a brand spanking 12v new one which is reading 12v but now it doesnt want to start. Ive tried trying to start it with the leccy start and with choke/no choke but still no luck, i even bumped it down my road but it seems like it wants to start but if i know the term correctly its bogging ,then it cuts out (tried with/without choke again and left it 40 mins before trying without incase it had of flooded)

My mate told me to check if the ht lead was all connected correctly and it seemed to be on both ends...

If it helps when i took off the spark plug to replace it i took off the petrol tank but i did put back the fuel cable back on and also as i didnt have a torque wrench or wire gauge for the spark plug i stuck it in without adjusting the gap and tightened it with a spanner till it was relatively tight

Heres a vid i took of how its not doing anything when using the leccy start:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MPl3tg4vbBw

Can anyone suggest anything else to check please, would really appreciate it :) Thanks in advance

so annoying tho, nice day for a ride which i hardly get to do and it doesnt start :/ lol

Oh yeah fuel is set to on smile



-- Edited by reefvodka on Wednesday 11th of January 2012 04:50:20 PM

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NORFE


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id just check all the elecy connections mek sure u dint nok owt loose when u took the tank off as a start pal

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Reef


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cheers for replying, had a good look at all the leccy conections near the petrol tank and everything seems to be fine, all connected, could the starter motor have gone but would that still allow you to bump it??

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NORFE


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yeah ud still be able to start it, is the engine turning over as normal on the button?
daft question but u did turn the tap back on after fitting the tank....so easy to forget
other than that
check plug is it gettin wet?
have you got a good spark...nice bright and blue?
take the plug out and sit it on the outside of the head still connected to the cap and turn the engine over by kik or button

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Reef


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erm dont truly understand the term of turning over lol, sorry, however the only thing it does when using the leccy button is what it does in that vid ???

yeah didnt forget to turn the tap on :) ahh the plug it didn look wet atall, dry as a bone??

and yeah also checked the spark colour earlier, bright blue

and thanks again :)

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DT-R_bradders


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hold the start button down longer! lol turning over= turning the crank/kick starting/elec start

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FREZOI


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You shouldnt need to check the gap on the plug mate, you used to use feeler (correct spelling?) gauges back in the olden days, just in case the plug had been dropped and it had bent the ground electrode (little arm) thats what i was taught during my apprenticeship anyway but when plugs come out the box youll have notice it was sitting on a wee cardboard tube( like the inside of a toilet roll) which is meant to protect the gap in case its dropped, i usually check the gap by holding it up to a light anyway.

Also hold the button down and make sure the choke is on, if not check your getting fuel and double check your getting a spark with the new plug.

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Reef


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ahh ok heres another vid with me trying to start it, sorry bout the poor quality, using my old phone as the iphone died... can you see that it tries to start 18 seconds in of the video but cuts out, that was with the choke on??

Jus gonna check again if the spark plug is getting wet lads and ill let you know the outcome :) and defo getting a blue spark with the new spark plug frezoi :)



-- Edited by reefvodka on Wednesday 11th of January 2012 07:03:21 PM

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stroker


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Might be the plug, whip it out and check for a spark ive known plugs to break down even brand new ones, or try the old plug

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stroker


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Just had another listen its very fast on turn over id check the compression after you try the plug

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DT-R_bradders


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does sound a bit fast like stroker said check the compression m8y

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Reef


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Stroker your a star, whacked in the old spark plug and it started up straight away :D before i put in the head i checked to see what colour it was and it was purple??

Does that mean the new spark plug either is dodgy or needs adjusting?

the new spark plug was a white colour jus after doing that vid of it nearly starting up??

and for future refrence and to check now how can i check the compression?? :)

Cheers lads for all your help, jus needa know about the spark plug colours if possible and how to check compression??



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stroker


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Yea that means the ceramic has brocken down. get a refund

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NORFE


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easiest way to check the compression is with a tester its a guage on a hose that u screw into the spark plug hole and then crank the engine untill the guage stops not sure what it should be tho
but yes it did sound fast turning over in the vid like the plug was out lol

only plugs iv had what were duds were the splitfire plugs. proper garbage never had a good 1 yet !!

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stroker


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Should be over 100 psi idealy 120 ish

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NORFE


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yea ada fort so i remember mi cr 125 been around 125-30psi but run well stilll at low comp
aslong as theres some resistance on kick starter when ur pressing it
or put the bike in 1st gear and try to push it, if the wheel turns easy its redy for some ££££
back wheel should lock up really

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Reef


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ahh cheers lads.... your gonna hate me.... i got another problem.... :/ ... i thought yeah as its starting now why dont i go for quick ride around, so i made all of the effort of getting it out and getting ready myself, starting it up and letting it warm up, put it into 1st and as i soon as got past the biting point it cut out :/ that was without the choke so i thought, put the choke on for a min as it didnt wanna start up again but as soon as i took the choke back off and set off it cut out again... tried a few more times and it was jus the same 1st problem where nothing was happening when holding the leccy button like the 1st vid :/

Its came on so quickly its unbelivable, what can i do people??? :)





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NORFE


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not having much luc 2day aya ha


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Reef


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i know, why me and why so sudden... lol... its proper pi**ed me off now haha. any suggestions norfe?? :D

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stroker


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i would get that compression checked

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