Riding home from work today, get to a junction and go to pull the clutch in and stop but the lever goes soft and the bike stalls when I stop... FFS.
Bumped it, and went back to work to borrow the van and get the bike home. try the clutch again and its fine!? drain the oil (full of metalic particles) and whip the cover off to have a look and notice that the gear on the crank is loose and the nut and washer are only being held on by the casing pressing against it. The threads on the nut are gone aswell as a section of threads on the crank. Its also chewed into the clutch basket slightly. I havnt measured the clutch plates for thinkness yet to see if its them but has anyone come across the gear issue before?
Nathan
-- Edited by NathanH on Tuesday 27th of March 2012 09:03:44 PM
My clutch is a tosser my left arm is as strong as chuck norris's penis from pulling it in everytime! Hope you sort it
You have something wrong with your clutch, unless someone has put heavy duty springs in instead In my experience all the standard DTR clutch springs I've checked have all been out of spec, hardly enough to warrant any problems though as the clutch still works as it should when it's been assembled correctly!
And OP a picture says a 1000 words.. Get a picture up and we go from there
the nut has not been tightened correctly & over time the vibrations have made it come loose it must of been well loose tho as this is a left hand thread to stop it undoing when running,,,
uou will have to get a10mm die try and find one like
Yeah, I ended up welding the nut to the shaft. When its due a rebuild I'll stick a new crank in but it'll do for now. I also smoothed off the wear to the clutch basket, thanks for the tip :) made a massive difference. Also, when I had the basket out... is the gear on the back of the basket ment to have some movement in it? i.e I can twist a tiny bit in relation to the basket if that makes any sense.
yeah i was ona bout it to nev last night i have 5 in and around the garage and all have moovement in them
its a sort of shock adsorber theres rubbers under that plate at the back and goes slacker over the years, some ore worse than others mines got some play inand still works fine,as soon as theres any power go thru it it holds in in one place any way if u get me
Aye me n Norfe was on about this last night, when the local chap I use to sort out my engine noticed I had play on the clutch basket, and the large cog, suggested I swapped it with another clutch basket I had, plus the edges were notched where the plate tabs sit in. He pretty much knows his bikes, and having over 30 odd years experience, I'm gonna take his word for it. I reckon now its pretty much o.k that there should be a certain amount of play, as Norfe reckons all the ones he has has movement in them, and Jerry(Deeteemx) has checked the ones he has and they also, have play in them, due to a rubber cush sat in between the basket and cog, So the thing to establish is how much play is o.k and how much is deemed worn, took a pic of mine and reckon theres about 4mm of play there, so is this o.k or worn, if anyone could do the same and measure theirs, so can compare, would be good if poss? Oh aye, the grooves where the plate tabs sit in can leave notches, which I've found out you can file smooth and re-use, but only the once.
yeah thats about the same as on mine, ill strip one later to show the inturnals if people wanna see em, as i do, they cant be that much difrent from ones iv replaced rubbers on in the past
the drz 400 has a set of springs in like most other big bikes
as to the clutch fingers on my kx 500 it used to do that right bad, used to filed it 2 times over 6 months, then the clearance gets abit big and can cause the plates to smash the fingers off when u crack the throttle
seen them do that on a few mx engines b4 when there badly worn
Sorry to start this thread up again... clutch has stopped working... again, went out for a ride, gave it some beans and went to change up and the clutch lever went soft like it did last time. stripped it down this evening, the adjuster pin looked set back from the clutch as if the clutch was stuck 'open'. pull the lever and it became flush (in its hole). I did notice the ball bearing was missing from behind the adjuster pin!?
shunt work at all if the bb's missing, to much slack in the push rods
only way to get round it it strip,check & inspect and rebuild to the manual diagram, make sure u put the damper ring in correctly it dont go in 1st with the friction plate, it goes in 2nd with the bigger id plate
Yeah I made sure I built the clutch up properly. Although looking at the diagram again I never had a lock nut and washer on the adjuster. I did about a mile before it stopped working. best order a new BB! cheers Norfe.
THATS UR PROBLEM THEN NEED THE LOCK NUT ON...I WUNT ORDER A BB, JUST GET AN M6 BOLT, THE BIT THATS NOT THREADED B4 THE HED, CUT 6MM OFF SO UV GOT A BIT LIKE THE PUSH ROD BUT 6MM LONG
OR IF UV GOT ANY OTHER SPARE PUSH RODS, CUT A BIT OFF ONE WITH A GRINDER, THATS WHAT IV DONE, TAKES UP MORE SLACK IN THE CLUTCH WORKS A TREAT !
