Did the Reed switch in the clocks and gutted the exhaust, I checked powervalve and its inline with the echaust port at rest:
Few pics:
Clocks, Take out reed switch, bag and tag then tuck into the clocks, tape up the hole to stop moisture getting in and fogging the clocks.
Exhaust, Code 3RM 00, I did take a pic showing the position, but it corrupted, you can see where ther grinding marks were. It was one full ring and areal bugger to get out! go there in the end though!
The exhaust was well coked up, with a natural restricting 1.5mm ring of carbon at the entrance!
no restrictors in the top half:
Welded back up and given a coat of paint:
and all fitted back:
Bike has loads more power, revs better and you can feel the powervalve coming in now. I also think the previous owner has never really rung its neck and the more I'm riding it the better its running, got just shy of 70 downhill before the road and my nerve ran out.
It is still (sometimes) a little hesitant in the upper rev range, which could be down to carb jetting, so Ill see how I get on with it.
Make sure all wire connections on the 2 connector boxes are pushed right in and making full contact the 2 connector boxes are located under the left hand side of the tank above the p.v servo I had problems with mine sometimes it would feel it was working then on other times it felt restricted again did my nut in for weeks. It turned out to be a loose connection there. Get a small screwdriver and push all connectors within the block to make sure they are snug and tight. Also mate you wanna consider repacking the dep tail pipe bet you its long overdue for some new packing in there as them rivets look original. Cheaper way of doing it is loft insulation. Obviously you will get a bit ichy gathering some up out the loft but its free or simply just buy some new wodding from fleabay or summat
-- Edited by Ralzy on Friday 22nd of June 2012 04:15:44 AM
-- Edited by Ralzy on Friday 22nd of June 2012 04:16:31 AM
B) WHAT A WEAPON! Bikes even quicker, really pulls strongly from 5 to 7k , but tbh, still runs out of legs over 8k, is this normal or would a rejet sort?
To be honest im not bothered, it gets to 60 in no time at all now!!! Love it!
Try taking the reed switch right out of the clocks dude,tape it up some more and see if that helps coz its still near the clocks,or take the cover off the power valve housing and make sure it's moving properly when u rev the bike,if that exhaust came off that bike then u defo need to clean the valve (what a lot of carbon)did u clean inside the exhaust port ?
The reed switch its pushed down behind the Cowling, well out of the way. I did clean out the barrel a bit, but haven't had the power valve out, that could be the next job, but you can Defo feel it coming in.
You will feel it coming in if it's shut / open/stuck coz its the power band of the rev range comin in not the valve,if the valve is workin properly it smooths the power out thru the full rev range,instead of gettin to a certain revs then hittin a big power band it will feel powerful thru the whole range,hope this helps dude,and was this the pipe from your bike?
Gadget, exhaust is from this bike, ralzy, its there a how to for repacking? Don't want to over full and start to restrict the airflow!
u cant over fill it as theres a perforated tube running down the centre of the silencer
i just strip it then rivet the bottom end on then stuff it with loft insulation keep ramming it doen all around the inner tuber till its full then revet the end cap on
Exactly man ,there's some strange people out there who's brains don't work and they would do it lol !i think some 4stroke cans are filled with like a wire wool substance but two strokes spit it out like sparklers haha
Exactly man ,there's some strange people out there who's brains don't work and they would do it lol !i think some 4stroke cans are filled with like a wire wool substance but two strokes spit it out like sparklers haha
yeah 4 bangers have the 1st layer of wire wool around the tube then packing material...