A few people in here are trying to use other CDI's to replace their standard CDI's as a method of de-restricting the rev limiter within the CDI unit on the older model DT's, or just as a replacement for a faulty one.
The CDI's mainly being used as a compatable replacement are the 4DL (TZR Italian import) 3SH (TDR Italian import) , and 4HW (TZR GB model), there are others no doubt that can be used but haven't the wiring info on those.
Yamaha has a number of variants: 4BN; 4CL; 4DL; 4FL; 4GM; 4HE; 4HW; 4HX; 4JB. DIFFERENT CDI CODES PER COUNTRY The Swiss market 4DL are known as 4HE. 4DL - ITALIAN IMPORT 4JB - BELGIUM, GREECE,PORTUGAL MARKETS 4HW - BRITISH MARKET 4HX - SWISS, FINNISH, AUSTRIAN MARKET.
The colour coding on the wires on the 4HW CDI's pretty much correspond with the 3bn, 3mb CDI's barring 2 or 3, but have traced them to the componants they go to now. I'll try and find the wiring codes for the 4DL, and post in here later.
Standard wiring on the DT125R CDI (3BN, 3MB) for models 3RN1 - 3RN9
11 Wires
White/Red - Magneto
Black (White/Blue from Magneto) - Magneto
White/Green - Magneto.
Black/Red - Magneto.
Orange - Coil.
Blue - Clocks,& Dash Lights circuit.
Black/Yellow - Powervalve Servo Motor.
Black/White - Kill Switch circuit.
Blue/Yellow - Sidestand Switch.
Black - Earth.
Light Blue - Oil level Sender Switch,& Magneto to Neutral Switch circuit.
Standard wiring on the 4HW CDI
11 Wires
White/Red - Magneto
White/Blue - Magneto
White/Green - Magneto.
Black/Red - Magneto.
Orange - Coil.
Black/Yellow - Powervalve Servo Motor.
Black/White - Kill Switch circuit.
Blue/Yellow - Sidestand Switch.
Black - Earth.
Blue/White - Neutral Lamp.
Black/Blue - ?
The only wire I'm having problems tracing back is the Black/Blue wire, when I do sort it I'll edit into the list later.
Just gone and picked up a 4dl cdi, I'm a wire short on the new one, the 4dl doesn't have a light blue wire. I'm gonna connect up the rest of the wires though and see how it goes.
Aye, let us know how it goes, the 4dl diagram deffo had the blue as a clutch wire, but seeing as the DT doesn't have the clutch switch, just isolate it off.
Right the light blue is for the sidestand/neutral switch/oil circuit. So neutral light's always on and I think the oil light would be as well but I'm low on oil anyway lol. But all runs fine, I'd say it revs out a little better, gets to about 9.5k before running out of steam so think that's down to the cylinder and head (has the weird shape 3bn head) so think that's limiting it a bit as well. But found a 4dl cylinder and 3mb head for about £40 so I'll be going to grab that on friday when I get paid :D
Can't see how you're getting the light blue (sb) going to sidestand switch (number 21 on diagram) I get the light blue going to the oil level switch( number 25) neutral switch (number 9)engine starter switch relay (number13) and the neutral light bulb (number 36) Only two wires going to the sidestand switch (21) are Blue/Yellow, and Blue/White.
Sorry it does go to the oil sensor. I haven't really looked into it yet because electrics just melt my mind lol. But doesn't the oil light come on with the neutral light though, thought it had something to do with that. Like I said need to have a good look at it.
Was trying to fathom out why your neutral light is on all the time, Coastie on the other hand has same problem but in reverse, his doesn't come on at all. Oil light should come on when ignition is turned on, for just a second iirc, just to let you know the bulb is working, whether tank is full or empty.
Ah right,, I got it around my neck then, I thought your neutral light stayed on even if it wasn't in neutral. my mistake, if you need this 4dl owners manual i got here btw, pm me your email and i'll send it you over.
ah that'd be helpful. I'll send you over my email in a second.
And I should really explain things more clearly lol.
Right before I changed the CDI, the neutral light worked fine, and the oil light came on with the neutral light, regardless of how much oil I had.
Now I've changed it, the neutral light stays on all the time even when it's in gear. The oil light's also on but as I said it's low on oil anyway so could just be that, or it could be because it's always come on with the neutral light.
Still need to have a look at the extra wire on mine, having a constant green neutral light on all the time is a bit annoying. And the fact that the oil light doesn't work anymore is a bit dodgy as well lol.
Thought I'd post this up too, as a fair few people are looking at swapping their CDI for a 4DL CDI, and being told on Ebay by the seller that the CDI has come from a 4DL bike, doesn't necessarily mean its a 4DL CDI, usually the CDI has the 4DL code marked in white print on it, but sometimes due to wear and tear, this code marking can rub away, another thing to look for, as I've found this to be common on the 4DL's, is the wiring loom coming from it are generally red plastic tubing, as opposed to the Grey or Black tubing, found on other CDI's. But the failsafe way to tell if it is a 4DL is the width of the CDI across the front, I noticed when mine came that it looked a tad smaller than a normal DTR CDI box, so today I measured the 4DL and got it to be 55mm, compared to the 66mm of the other types.
Fitted it over a month ago and still haven't got round to sorting the light out lol. The oil light is working fine and also comes on when it's in neutral but the green neutral light is on all the time still. Thing is the wire that is missing from the cdi goes to the oil sensor, so I'm not quite sure how it all works tbh.
