You may remember a DT with KTM forks and aWR swingarm on posted a while back. Well that project is still going on. I've got it right to the point of starting and test riding.
It was a '97 TDR 125 to begin with, converted to a DT125 SM.
Anyway, I've recently bought a 2007 DT125RE engine and loom. It spark if I give the kickstart a tickle, but as soon as I give it a real kick it fires but then cuts out. The spark just disappears. I sort of assume it's just a switch I need to bypass but after 2 days of constant head scratching I'm at a loss!
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I'll put a guide up on how I did the forks/swingarm if people want it. A bit give/take for the forum's sake.
Had a similar prob before,check th wires that go from th pickup coil to the Cdi ,give them a wiggle and see if the characteristics of the sparke change ,if they do you got a dodgy wire in that cable that goes near the gear lever (big one),if not check your woodruff key coz it's timming by the looks of it , let us know and we can go from there
Can't sleep so I just had a quick look over my bike. No joy. Don't know if it's just me being inexperienced with wiring but I get the same spark whether the battery is connected or not. Seems odd
I'll make a guide on the swingarm in the future when I have a bit free time, was a bit of a ball ache but pretty straight forward. Just got done modifying a KTM SX125 downpipe and end can to fit aswell.
Ok if the wire isn't shortin out,u gotta check your woodruff key,but if the bike has been soaked over the last couple ov weeks it will probs be the coil being damp wich fooks them ,you can dry it out and seal it after but if you've got spares from the new bits u bought then start swapping bits one by one ,just basics if we gonna fix this what HAVE U TRIED ...plug yes/ht lead yes etc just so I can realy get me head round it
Best way is to follow the two wires from the sidestand switch, all the way up to where the block connects to the loom, and then comeback about an inch, chop off there. bare the wire ends about 10mm then join the two wires together, and then insulate with tape, or use shrink tubing before you join the two wires together if you have some tubing lying around, this just makes an electrical bridge for bypassing the sidestand switch.
Ok list exactly what you changed form the other engine 1:coil 2:ht lead .....etc etc so it's clear what has been done ,and to test the spark take the plug out first then put th plug in the plug-cap and hold the threads of the plug onto the head and give it a go ,ps did you try the bits one by one from the other engine ?,plug gap and woodruff key all ok ?.................................................................... Ok scrap that lot u posted as I was typing ...lol...NICE ONE glad you got it to fire dude
-- Edited by GADGET on Wednesday 2nd of January 2013 05:15:37 PM
Riiiight, just changed everything over from my old engine and getting the same results. It all seems to be pointing at the CDI or dodgey wiring somewhere. Bypassed the sidestand switch no problem.
Finally got it going. Turns out it was a dodgey ignition switch. Gave it a cheeky hotwire and it went no problem. A migraine averted. Cheers for the help lads! I'll get making a guide in the near future for swingarm and forks.
Are you using the original TDR kill and starter switches with the new loom and cdi ? If you are switch the wires round from the kill switch as they work in reverse to the older switches. IE If you put a 99 on kill switch on an earlier bike run is off and off is run if u know what I mean.
