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Post Info TOPIC: How would you run in your top end piston & rings?


DTR Senior Member

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How would you run in your top end piston & rings?
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I blew my bike up yesterday & i'm getting it rebored on saterday.
My dad who was a mechanic said
ride at 30mph for 500 miles. Took me a week to do it. 70 miles a day
I did this last time with my honda mtx & it ran like a ****ing beaut afterwards.
How would you do it?



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Polini recommended 300 miles on my 160cc kit.

It said first 100 miles at 1/4 throttle. Next 100 miles 1/2 throttle. And the final 100 miles at varied throttle ranges but not prolonged use in the high rpm.

To be fair though yours isn't a highly tuned engine so a careful 100 miles should wear out any imperfections and bed it all in nicely. It's not like you've got new bearings in there or anything.

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i did 250 miles of careful riding, not loading the engine ect, after that it was full throttle everywhere, seems to be working great for me

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I do first 100 at 30 second 100 at 40 100 at 50 then I normally get bored and just rag it lol works fine in my dt and ts 50

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when i did my i changed the 2t for minrel oil did 3 warm ups for 10mins no revving just let it tick over then checked coolant 1st 100mile i never went past 4.5k RPM after every 1hour letting it cool down then from 100 to 300mile i built the revs upto 5.5k Rpm. After every hour of rideing letting it cool down then from 300 to 500 went up to 6.5k Rpm and 7k Rpm then from 500 to 600 mile letting the power vale come in for short bursts then changed the 2t for castrol fully s



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Cheers dudes I'll take it on board!

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I yeah. It's important to use low grade oils.

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10w30 is what i use for the dtr, there's compression but my god it's poping :*( tomorrow taking it off & sending it away

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bit diff for 4 banger but i just never went over half throttle, on & off the acell look for hills go up them in higher gears

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I rode it under 5k revs for 200 miles which is hard cos I live 14 miles there and back from work. So had to literally ride it everywhere to run it in.

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just do 3 heat cycles cooling down each time fully and ride it HARD to bed in the rings, using mineral oil


i will probably get flamed for saying that, but thats the way i do it, its the way alot of high ranked engine tuners tell you do it aswell

at the end of the day there is no way of ''running in'' an engine, everyone has different ideas about it

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DTR Trusted Engine Builder

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any oil i use either putoling mx2 or castrol from garage

start bike, run till at full temp rev freely tick over rev blip blip 10 -20 mins

cool stone cold

check - re torque head/barrel nuts and any thing else round the engine check coolant level-top up if need be

ride

good warm up  to full temp. ride round flat roads revving freely up/down gbox 30 mins ish few miles, no load on the engine like going up hill in high gears

cuple of rides similar to the above 

ITS ALL ABOUT THE WARM UP WITH A 2 STROKE

look at mxers at the start gate warmer u get it better the warm up the longer it will last

if u go up road and ring its neck from cold the piston expands quicker than the bore and starts micro siezing, and from that point the top ends shagged

built hundreds of 2 strokes, some inbetween motos on race day for mates, good warm up and then thrashed tits off em and all been good

never had a problem...

engine good to go



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tunertom wrote:

just do 3 heat cycles cooling down each time fully and ride it HARD to bed in the rings, using mineral oil


i will probably get flamed for saying that, but thats the way i do it, its the way alot of high ranked engine tuners tell you do it aswell

at the end of the day there is no way of ''running in'' an engine, everyone has different ideas about it


 Yeah. I'm sure they would tell you that. For short term performance that's how you'd get maximum power out of it. But what do you notice bout race bikes? They don't last very long. They are not designed to. If you don't rebuild your engine after a race you are at a disadvantage. Less compression means less power. If you're in it to win it you'd rebuild it. Or you could look after the engine sensibly



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NORFE wrote:

any oil i use either putoling mx2 or castrol from garage

start bike, run till at full temp rev freely tick over rev blip blip 10 -20 mins

cool stone cold

check - re torque head/barrel nuts and any thing else round the engine check coolant level-top up if need be

ride

good warm up  to full temp. ride round flat roads revving freely up/down gbox 30 mins ish few miles, no load on the engine like going up hill in high gears

cuple of rides similar to the above 

ITS ALL ABOUT THE WARM UP WITH A 2 STROKE

look at mxers at the start gate warmer u get it better the warm up the longer it will last

if u go up road and ring its neck from cold the piston expands quicker than the bore and starts micro siezing, and from that point the top ends shagged

built hundreds of 2 strokes, some inbetween motos on race day for mates, good warm up and then thrashed tits off em and all been good

never had a problem...

engine good to go


 ^^^ I'm gonna be running it in soon similar to how NORFE suggested doing but my question is what OIL should I use lads for the running in period, what would you suggest from past experience when runnin in a new top end?

I normally run it on silkolene comp 2 plus but after reading around many of ya tend to use mineral oil for the running in period?? If you did what OIL did you use and how many miles for, plus once it was run in did you mix it with your normal fully synthetic stuff or did you empty it and bleed it again??

Is it really worth going to mineral based oils when running it in??????

Info on this would be good

Cheers

Finally got to a stage where I can hopefully get this back on the road soon...

 

 

 



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I wouldn't use his method it's wrong u arnt doing your engine any good by useing good oils and the rings need time bed in ad use the method above norfes and theirs no need to recheck any bolts av done lots of rebuilds and never had a gasket blow our a nut undo itself



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Lol. NORFE knows what he's talking about. Very sound.

I would just ride careful on low grade oils for the first 150 miles or so. Then switch to semi or fully synthetics varying the revs till about 300. Avoiding prolonged exposure to high rpms. But it's only a top end rebuild so doesn't need to be too extreme.

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Ok mate, cheers

Will get some ordered then. :)

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i ran mine in on mineral....still running the mineral oil- 500 miles in..untill it runs out then i shall change to semi synthetic :p

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Yeah or that.

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I use Yamalube gearbox Oil. and yamalube 2 stroke oil. gearbox oil is 10w40. is it best to go 10w30?

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Gearbox oil for the gearbox right? I think either or. I think I'm using 10W 30, but can't say I noticed any difference between the 2.

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