.be sure to check it all out numbers wise matching whats on the paper work . rev counter and ignition easy fixed not much to buy online .
dont like the lost keys story if you did lose keys why the hell would you damage barrel like that ? looks like its either been nicked or some one has tried to nick it also smashing the rev clock at the same time . maybe its been nicked and ragged to death and he recoverd it or coppers did but he is not saying in the advert .
maybe a hpi check can show this in some cases you can do a hpi on the spot via internet .
or get the reg and do it first ds.hpicheck.com/marlin/landing.do
if all checks out fine give the bike a good little test ride if possible . sure you know all other checks when buying ? oil color -oil in rad water - metal dust in gearbox - bla bla bla
all that said a swap for a scooter sounds good .
check list taken from another site worth a read ..
Research the market place thoroughly If you are interested in a particular make or model, compare prices from advertisements in different publications e.g. Bike Trader. Make sure that you can afford the running costs such as maintenance and insurance premiums before you buy your dream machine.
Check that the seller actually owns the motorbike Check all documentation - the V5, service and insurance records, MOT certificate and receipts where available to ensure everything tallies. If the seller cannot provide the V5, walk away. There will be plenty of similar motorbikes on the market to choose from.
View the motorbike in daylight and at the seller's address Make sure you view the motorbike in clear daylight and don't go alone - take a friend with you. It is also important that you visit the motorbike at the seller's house. Do not arrange to meet at a service station or lay-by and do not let the seller bring the motorbike to you. Check the seller's address is the same as that recorded in the logbook.
Find out if the motorbike is on finance Ask the seller if the motorbike has any outstanding finance owing and check this out by investing in a Vehicle Check. If the finance has not been paid off, the motorbike could still be the property of a finance house which has the right to reclaim it.
Check out the mechanical integrity of the motorbike Make sure you get the vehicle independently inspected to ensure it is mechanically sound. It could save you from making a costly mistake.
Check the motorbike hasn't been 'clocked' Reducing the mileage of a vehicle by turning back the odometer, or 'clocking', is a common trick used by unscrupulous sellers to obtain a higher price. You should assess whether the mileage is consistent with the age and condition of the motorbike.
Check the motorbike isn't a 'ringer' 'Ringing' is when a motorbike is stolen and its identity changed using the documents of an identical make and model. Check the VIN thoroughly and make sure it hasn't been tampered with.
Take the motorbike for a ride Make sure that you ride the motorbike on a range of roads for at least 10-15 miles. You will need to make sure you are properly insured before taking the bike out.
Look at the motorbike's history Obtain as much information as possible from the seller, but realise that their objective is to sell you the motorbike. Don't hand over any money until you have completed a Vehicle Check - this will provide you with the vehicle's true history.
It's a gilera runner 172 I'm looking to swap. Not everyone's cup of tea but its a bloody rapid machine and very reliable so I don't want to just pawn it off if the dt is a spike of turd
Croydon is 20 mins away so I can view it no problem. My first checks will be vin and stamps, other then that coolant colour and rattles etc.
The bike was stolen and recovered but not listed as far as I'm aware on insurance hence the barrels and dash.
Sounds a bit too much of a good deal. Doesn't add up, that he wants to get shot for a ped.
Start it up, leave it idling then once it's warm leave it on tick over and give it little throttle blips, listen for any knocking.
It has done 11,000 miles according to the clock, guy reckons it had a new engine in 2008, could be lies, you have to check if that's the case at around 10,000 miles DT's need new piston and rings.
Also pretty sure someone on here spotted this one a while back, in better condition without the barrel missing.
The fact he even mentions the back wheel being low, chances are it has a puncture. It isn't hard to grab a pump and put some air in them, so why even mention it in the ad?
If you go through with it, bring a torch if he makes up a story to view it at night, if it's dark torch! Check everything over.
BEFORE even starting it, put your hand on the exhaust expanny and on the topend, if it's warm, walk away. You want it stone cold.
Check the compression with your hand, if you can push the kickstart down easy with your hand, the compression is out, so the topend is wrecked.
As for the numbers, get the logbook out and check the numbers against the logbook, bring a friend, you go over them, the friend confirms them. Might look like a idiot doing it, but it must be done or you could be buying a nicked bike.
Go with the mindset of "viewing NOT buying" that's the big mistake I did, when I first saw the DT I was buying I was like a little kid at Christmas, hence getting shafted.
As soon as you get it home, pull the exhaust off and look up the exhaust port, move the kick start slowly to move the piston to get a good look at it, scratches or damage on the piston, take it straight back to the guy, the piston bits would have got into the bottom end and wrecked all the seals and bearings. I learned that lesson the hard way.
u know not all peds are **** and some are worth more then dt's
i know people who swap for peds my pal just swaped his husky 125 with my outher pal for his runner not because either are **** but because some people want a change.
but it is kinda odd that they thing its a good idea that if there dt gets nicked they think a runner will be safe even more so in croydon haha
My opinion is that it's not worth a gilera runner.
As you said they are quick and decent machines.
It's not worth a decent runner. And it's definitely worth £1500! Guys having a laugh aint he.
Straight away. Monster stickers say CHAVED!
Chaved bikes are ALWAYS bad news. So whats got excel rims. That don't mean shït.
No fork guards? Gaitors. Thats a big no no in my opinion. This bike is worth £1100 max. If the engine is in good nick. Don't know where he got £1500 from. Smashed clock and ignition. Nah man. Not worth £1500. My opinion avoid.
You're better off buying a genuine seller dtr and sm'ing yourself.
As far being able to push the kick start down with your hand, I could do that on my bike and that was just after a top end rebuild. Just depends how strong you are. I think Boxing means if it's effortless.. then it's ****ed. If you're built then you'll be able to push it down no problem with your hand :P
Don't buy the first peice of poo that you see like me lol! Not complaining now though but I could have been stitched right up. Luckily the piston had another 2k left in it by the will of god ha ha. Absolute crap heap of a bike every component shot to peices on it, really was a disgrace.