I would go ahead and say standard DT size since the crankcase looks the same from the outside. But if anyone knows then please do tell! :D
Right, so I've got a nice pay packet at the end of the month with no foreseen expenditures. Dt's on 250 miles with the new top end and running good :D So It's all gravey there.
So It's time I get my sorry a$$ back in the garage and get that belgarda stripped and rebuilt :D Want to run that in over the winter so it's ready to be ramped next summer :D
So far I'm thinking the LOT!
It was sold to me as a 'Running' engine. Clearly with what i've seen this is not the case. A FULL engine rebuild is necessary. (Great Crack)
But on the otherhand good. Rebuild it properly and have a fresh motor for my bike. Something that I will know it's history exactly. Exciting stuff I'm sure. I've finished reading that Graham bell Two Stroke book. Very good stuff and I'm really keen to get some engines built and cylinder and head tuned and shizzle. Don't think I'll bother with advancing ignition. Or ignition setup for a while yet. Got a few little ideas floating about but mainly it's just cylinder porting and carb setup.
Even from getting the engine spray black to dissapate heat better. This was advised in the two stroke manual.
If there is any input people want to advise me of please post away. Even from the obvious. I've got a haynes. I've got some experience. Mainly top end stuff. Never done a bottom end before. But am struggling to see how it's going to be difficult. I will be having two engines so not too worried if this one seizes and blows up since it won't take me out forever. Just the money will hurt :P
Anyway be interested in hearing what you guys have to say.
-- Edited by Calum122 on Saturday 28th of September 2013 03:56:41 PM
Thanks. As i'm sure you're aware i'm the king of patience since it took me 7 long months to sm my dt. For which it was off the road for :(
Already way ahead of you with the stainless set. What about inside the engine? Stanless pan heads or what?
I may need those codes. What about gearbox bearings? Will it be worth splitting the engine first and deciding what needs replacing or buy the majority of parts then split it.
Also can you reassure me about tnhe gearbox. This is my main concern. Is it easy to remove and then reinsert? Also will be obvious if its suffered any wear?
-- Edited by Calum122 on Saturday 28th of September 2013 03:56:12 PM
My advice would be take your time with it and tourque everything up properly with nice new stainless steel bolts. I would invest in genuine gaskets, so much better but cheapo ones will work but for the extra money go genuine.
Get the code of the right hand twin lipped seal and get it from simply bearings not yamaha, don't know if the other seals can be obtained this way?
My sprocket seal is dripping now cause I used the old collar which I thought would be fine but it has buggered the brand new seal, so now I would always replace that collar as a matter of course. Simple things like keeping the bearings clean when you are installing them ect as I dropped one ect and had to chuck it cause it got dirt in it really annoying but easy done.
It's not hard at all, now that I have done it once, I reckon I could strip and build one in a day very easily.
I used the stainless steel allen heads inside the engine to, its only actually a plate on the rear side of a bearing, use lock tight on those ones aswell as you will already know.
You can find the bearing codes for the engine on my whiteboard for the DT, dont know about your engine though. If you are not in a rush I would definatley split the engine and get your codes off the bearings and buy them direct from simply bearings.
Gearbox wise, take plenty photos when you split and lift it out alltogether, you will have to tap the rods that hold the forks to free them, If the gearbox was damaged you would definatly see wear and metal filings settled at the bottom.
Use the photos to re install the forks on the correct location on the selector drum, you cant go wrong cause it only goes in one way and the halfs would not join up if it wasn't installed properly. Use that Hylomar blue gasket stuff and give it a good half hour to set, the crank will probaly be stiff, so knock it on the ends to centre it completely with a rubber mallet and get it rotating, dont be alarmed if it is really stiff compared to how it was before you split the thing.
Did you recondition your crank? How hard is it to change the con rod. Is it pretty simple. Anything I should be aware of?
Thinking a wossner rod to go in there. Looked on the web and for the life of me cannot find one anywhere. I know someone on eBay was selling them. But messages him and he said he was sold out.
We'll I'm looking forward to it. So advice on taking the engine to bits.
Can you recommend a good way of storing the individual bits? Like I've split the engine (example) putting each bit in containers and labelling them. Lots of photos videos? All these and more.
i blew my dt up ... but i fixed it.... Then i crashed it.... but i didnt fix it right and 2 scouser's come in the middle of the night and left me with a working bike
It's good to watch the DTr one a few times thats what I done, must of watched it a good ten times, by the time I was doing the engine I knew all the order to dissmantel ect.
I kept all my stuff on a plastic tray very neatly laid out and stuff like the clutch and lock washers and nut ect I threaded it with a cable tie in the right order, same as the primary crank gear, I also held the gear box together with cable ties.
I sent my crank off to PJME who balanced it and installed my big end bearing and con rod, its not a job you can do your self.
Spent about £200 at pmje. Fair play they were on it like sonic. Next day delivery and it's all there. Very pleased with the level of service from them.
Slob what specialist tools do i need. Got the flywheel puller. What else?
also want to add went on tzr and they said not compatible with tzr r 4dl 4hw. Then next one down was and they said as much. So pleased with that.
-- Edited by Calum122 on Tuesday 1st of October 2013 05:01:05 PM
Yeah PJME are good, great service and they are specialists, they really know what they are doing.
Clutch holder is what you need, I made my own like it shows you in the haynes manual, you can get them for £15 off yam bits, or Norfe reccomends the mole grips type for £20 odd but I found it hard to find them so just bodged one up, was totally crap but done the job.
Watch with that pile of poo three way flywheel puller of ebay cause the bolts are not long enough and I had to cowboy it by not using the centre black peice so that the bolts could reach in the holes.
That flywheel puller can be used to split the crank case to, by pushing on the crank, or you can tap with a mallet and seperated from either end with screwdrivers on the non sealing parts obviously.
Lol. Too k the generator cover off and the fly wheels on the opposite way lol. Or at least i think it is. Usually the magnets are mounted to the crank case and the rotor outside. This ones different. The magnets are mounted to the generator cover.
It's not normally that way round for the dt is it?
