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Post Info TOPIC: Tractor gearbox oil?


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Tractor gearbox oil?
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So the fella who sold me the rm 250 sats that all he ever uses in his 2 stroke bikes is UTTO-universal tractor transmission oil

its £12 for 5 litres and apparently its a higher grade than normal ones you would buy for your bike, he's been using it for years and says he never has any problems...

thoughts?



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Ha wow!

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If it works then I guess it's all good. Although personally, I'd switch it for the correct oil. I ran my KX 80 on automatic transmission oil, only lasted a day or so. I THINK Norfe used it as well in his MX bikes, although that's something you should probably ask him personally.

People suggest to use car oil etc etc. But if it's too thick, it'll clog your clutch plates up and it'll be a nightmare to find gears etc.

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Wow wtf! Personally no. Companies like Fuchs have spent millions developing their oils hence their high price. That's all I'm saying

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Tbh unless you know about it anyone would say no, the obvious thing is to pay for the more expensive bike stuff but maybe this guy is on to something

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Sorry, I read that and was like for his two stroke he uses tractor oil? For the transmission I'd say that's fine mate. I use normal crap castrol engine oil in my gearbox. At the end of the day Tractors are high tech expensive machinery so I'd say it would be good to use for transmission oiil.

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If its the correct viscosity as recommended by Suzuki then its OK but if its not then its no good, like Luke says ropey clutch etc. I had a 525EXC a few years ago and serviced it with the wrong oil just once and it wouldn't select neutral and the gear change was notchy as you like. Dropped the oil and put the proper stuff in and back to perfect.

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My mate works on a farm an used to use it rode round there little track i used it on my chain a few times, thick gloopy stuff haha

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If depends if you have a dry or wet clutch also. I'd happily chuck a thicker car engine oil in a dry clutch bike. If it's a wet clutch (like a DT's) I'd use recommended transmission oil. I use 5W40 on my DT for transmission oil, as I've had problems with oil before. Been mint now for over 1,000 miles.

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Speaking about clutches, f*** me this one on the rm is so stiff!! Sat there pulling it in and out had arm pump in a coupla minutes! Is there anything that can be done to 'loosen' the clutch? Im gonna struggle big time on the track with it being that stiff

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You won't really need to use the clutch much to be fair.

Yeah you could figure out why it's stuff. Maybe the clutch springs are uprated to stop it slipping

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Not use the clutch on on a 2 stroke crosser?

Ok i'll have a look, cheers

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Don't need to for shifting up. And you can easily shift down without a clutch just prefer not to. You won't cause any damage shifting up without a clutch mate.

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2strokemx wrote:

Speaking about clutches, f*** me this one on the rm is so stiff!! Sat there pulling it in and out had arm pump in a coupla minutes! Is there anything that can be done to 'loosen' the clutch? Im gonna struggle big time on the track with it being that stiff


It should not be stiff, it should be feather light on the RM...... Try a new cable first then take it from there 



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Cal i've been riding a long time i know you dont need to use the clutch to shift on a crosser but your constantly playing with it in the corners, especially on a 2 stroke

Im going riding tomoz, is there anything i can do in the morning to loosen it? Or isit a new cable first, Cheers guys

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I sound like a d*** they way i said that, but you know what i mean

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Try oiling the cable

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This is probably the main reason I love KTM! Cable clutches are so inferior!!!

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Oh for the 1 finger hydraulic clutch of a KTM, I did try and entice him with a 2010 250SX on ebay lol

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Yeah I'm looking at a magura for my tzr project. At £200 its not cheap though.

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Mightyman i swear you had a hydraulic clutch conversion thing you found??

Aslong as i can use one fingers its cool, atm i struggle with two :/

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Yeah it turned out to be shocking. I believe it was intended for use on pitbikes where the push rods don't need as much travel. It wasn't disengaging the clutch fully AND wasn't letting the clutch engage fully... But for £30 posted from China it was worth the risk! I would like to one day get a Magura for the DT :)

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Cal trust me you need to use the clutch on a 2 stroke crosser!

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Well i had my first ride on it at a woodchip track called z racing yesterday, man it is so different to riding a 250f!! I was bogging abit where i was short shifting, but after abit of adjustment and lubrication of the clutch i started to get abit better, soooo much power coming out of rutts, it was yanking me at first

But... 2nd session out of 5 my kick starter snapped!! So i had to bump start it everytime and just pray i dont stall out out on the track, especially as it was running really deep wet woodchip

Im getting silly prices coming up like £120 for a new kickstart?!

Over-all i thought it was an awesome bike to ride, down the straights it was fkin quick, my goal was to beat all over people riding a two-stroke that day and i did, there was 3 others of them all race numbered and stickered up aswell lol, not amazingly good though thats the only reason i beat them

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Liam12 wrote:

Cal trust me you need to use the clutch on a 2 stroke crosser!


 This. You do need to use the clutch on a MX 2 stroke. Clutchless shifting just rags the engine because as soon as you shift up your in the next band. I think this contributed to killing my KX 80. 

Also, if you use the wrong oil that's too thick and clogs the clutch plates up, the clutch will be slipping, if you don't notice, you'll just find no clutch left one day. smile As for kick starts, look how it the bolt holds it on and pretty much any similar will fit. 

Try and whip up a video of it. biggrinbiggrin



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Pulling the clutch in only disengages the pressure plates from the clutch basket. The gearbox is still spinning around like no tomorrow. And the engine is designed to go up and down. So clutchless shifting up isn't going to do any damage. Down shifting might.



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MIGHTYMAN wrote:

Yeah it turned out to be shocking. I believe it was intended for use on pitbikes where the push rods don't need as much travel. It wasn't disengaging the clutch fully AND wasn't letting the clutch engage fully... But for £30 posted from China it was worth the risk! I would like to one day get a Magura for the DT :)


 But for £30 posted from China it was worth the risk!

Says it all, ever heard the saying " you get what you pay for " ...................



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Haha don't worry I wasn't expecting too much from it.. But I at least thought it would WORK!

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I will try get a video up of it next weekend :)

Shifting using the clutch wastes time and energy, i never use it to shift riding on a crosser

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Thats another thing when you shift up you want to go straight into the band, if you dont and it bogs thats quite dangerous sometimes on the track, you could be shifting up coming up to a jump and if your commited but it then bogs your f**** because you will not clear it

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