Right done it, after a root around i found an allen key with a moulded t grip and after a hard twist and a crack both came out. After all that i can report my pv is working as normal lol, there was some yellow gunk in there though but i'm thinking it's some kind of lube for the moving parts?
Yeah the bolts for the silencer are actually screwed! DTRCrazy after a further root around i found a mole grip amongst my tools but no luck with that i'm afraid. I think i'm gonna have to drill these buggers out.
Man that took a while, didn't have a dremmel so drilled em out. 1st one came out no probs, 2nd one made me work abit, a right bugger but got there in the end. So glad i did that tonight, by next weekend I should have me new tail pipe so all i need to do is just slot everything on, plus get some new bolts.
Hey thanks a bunch Crazy and Craig for your assistance, much appreciated
btw m8 .. with the powervalve, check it VERY carefully
mine was about 5 mm off the hole prob less, il find the video i took. my bike did 55mph, 50 some days, after i lined it up and **** myself when it popped wheelies haha it did 80 mph.
I see what you mean, it never actually opens up all the way. tbh i didn't have the bike on just the key turned in the ignition and it appeared to open and close alright. I shall defo try that, do you need to open the throttle all way for the valve to fully open?
Man it wont be until the weekend i can do anything with me bike now, i'm away with work as of tomorrow.
Cheers bud.
Edit: wanna make sure i got this right: open = notch aligned with hole, closed = notch turned 90 degrees (or thereabouts)
-- Edited by Spartan on Monday 15th of February 2010 10:08:31 PM
Cheers woll, yeah basically m8, its not to do with throttle, when riding your bike at 6k revs does it get faster? then at 8k revs does it sound really tinny and flyyyssss? if not its your powervalve m8. easy to do, just adjust the cables. tbh, worse case scenrio you can do what i did, take the p/v cover off, unscrew the big bolt in the middle, remove the cables, pilers and turn it around and a load of black calcy crap dropped from the exhaust port, which is what would have clogged it all up in the first place. then i put it back together and aligned it with that guide, easy sounds more complicated than it is, with it infront of you it becomes clear.
ohhh. you have a after 04 dont you .. DTR's have speedos and rev counters .. rev counter is very useful on a smaller engined 2 stroke, kinda stupid yamaha not putting one on lol
ermmm, not necessarily a tinny sound, depends what pipe is on a standard pipe is more deep.
the exhaust only has to come off if you do what i did and got rid of the crap, you probably dont have to, do the cables try that first probably solve it. is the speedo restriction earthed properly? whats the top end?
That's what i've been thinking, gonna check if i have earthed it properly - i earthed it to the lower screw mounting for the headlight plastics, it's wrapped around the washer and secured by the screw. Sandpapered the paint off to ensure contact too. Might unwrap from the washer and just sqaush all of it underneath so more of the wire touches the frame.
Have you done yours?
I've hit 70 but havn't pushed any more, i practically have to stand up at this point as it was burning my ass due to my exhaust hole. It's was a bit like playing chicken, seriously man i thought i was on fire at one point lol
...and yep is abit silly as i like having a rev range haha but not to bothered about it though, although i have read a cool thread on hear for fitting a nice new speedo :)
could try it mate, 70 sounds fine atm even without pushing it, standard front pipe isnt it? if you get a performance front pipe (better to have your current exhaust cut and everything taken out) then you will have an even better top end and especially acceleration.
mines a 2003 DTR not an RE, has a cable i just removed not anything earthed. hahaha nice roasting smell lol, your clothes must reek of 2 stroke oil lol, will run better with a straight through
btw, im not sure on the mot rules for removing the CAT out the exhaust, ask other people but maybe get a second pipe? not sure if RE's have to have CATs and whether they are tested lol
i think if you put a trailtech vapour speedo or w/e they have a rev counter and a speedo, a tacho cable will plug straight into an RE aswell, has the ability, its like they just forgot to add it haha
Yes it's a standard front pipe but that was going to be the next part...gutting it. Don't have the right tools for the job at the moment, think i just need an angle grinder and a dremel - cut along the weld at the widest part to open it up and then start taking the insides out...with the dremmel i think? Never done anything like this before but it seems straight forward. Will have to take it to a welder though to get put back together.
Not sure either bud, if it's not legal i shall just get a second standard pipe.
well, tbh, you could try it, i took the approach of i want it to look neat once i mess it up i cant put it back .. found a good old farmer and he cut it, removed stuff, welded it. So if you ask around there are people that will do it for you, but if you want a go at it go for it
yeah im not sure on the rules for mot. My bike isnt registered with a CAT, but 04 onwards have got them as standard so are registered to have them? hmmm, someone will answer.
I shall ponder it lol, tbh i would want a neat job too and there is a garage nearby that i know pretty well so i'll try them...just thinking about it my neighbour has an angle grinder so i could perhaps start there. I sense more drilled bolts on the way, it's pretty rusty on the ones underneath too...hey are replacments easy to get hold of, um any old hardware store maybe?
cool cool, yeh mate all japenese bikes use m5,m6,m8,m10 as the most common bolts so if you get a multipack you will have them ready for when u need them, the link above is for stainless steel(they wont rust)also you can use these on your engine casings too makes life easier for general maintanance if its easy to take on and off, as troubled bolts take up most of your time when repairing motorcycles
If you want a rev-counter you could fit the Vapor speedo unit in place of the DT one - I can tell you it will fit in the space behind the X/RE headlight as I have one fitted to my R (see how to section). If you have limited mechanical skills though I'd advise getting some help from a mate who's handy with the spanners etc.
Also get some 'copper-slip' or anti-seize compund to put on the new bolts when you put them in so they dont get stuck again.