i think my bike may be running too much oil, bike was fine when i put it in the shed yesterday, got it out earlier, it started and ran for about a mile then started chugging and wouldnt rev properly,then lost power and wouldnt start
luckily was just up the road so rolled it home, checked the plug and it was a bit oily
in the haynes manual it says "escess lubricant" on the pic of spark plugs where its fouling
i have same problem but im not running loads just a wee to much so it chugs when it gets hot. from what i can gather the oil is done by that lil box next to your oil filler cap i have looked at it but cant see how to adjust it so if you have any luck do tell.
i also followed the cable up back to the throttle cable splitter thing for petrol and oil so there may be an adjuster nut somewhere.
the oil pump setting is controlled by a cable connected via a junction box to the throttle cable this junction box automatically compensates for wear in the cables and ensures that the oil pump is synchronized accurately with the carburetor at all times as there is no need for adjustment it is only possible to check that the pump is opperating correctly to do this slowly rotate the twist grip whilst watching the pump pully closely the pully should start to rotate just as the throttle cable takes up its free play and starts to lift the throttle valve fully open the throttle and the pully should rotate smoothly to the fully open position and should return equally smoothly to its fully closed position when the twist grip is released and allowed to snap shut under spring pressure
if the operation of the oil pump is incorrect the fault is probably in the junction box of the throttle cable the junction box can be found under the fuel tank,and although no spare parts are available for the box it can be examined and cleaned by releasing the 4 screws and removing the cover check the box for signs of wear and corrosion if damaged the complete throttle assembly must be renewed if all appears to be well lubricate the junction box with wd40 do not apply grease or oil as these could have an adverse effect on the operation of the box,refit the cover and recheck the operation of the oil pump pulley if the pulley is still not smooth the throttle cable must be renewed
so there you go it cannot be adjusted which i didnt know but i do now lol
i did read that mate, which i didnt quite get ...as surely there must be a way of ajusting the amount of oil put in ?
or also what i was thinking....as my dt is un restricted, power valve pegged open etc, and ive got to run it in....could it be that keeping the revs low means is not quite burning the oil as well or something coz im not using full power ???
thing is, im gonna go check it in a min and it might start and drive fine, then its like a lottery on how far i go as if it could happen again leaving me stranded lol, ior waiting ages for the breakdown people to turn up !
Not if it's controlled from the carb it will register how much fuel is been put though and then allow the correct amount of oil but I checked mine Yesterday cause the gasket on the box was damaged but it seemed to be ok :)
No the little wire that goes from the fuel inlet to the pump is what regulates it there should be three tubes oil tube throttle wire and the little thin wire
If your running your bike in then it will foul plugs and become very oily out of the tailpipe.The engine is not revving high enough to clean out the oil that is being delivered from the pump.Always carry a spare plug with you. When you have run the bike in and give it some welly you will be shocked how much smoke will come out of the pipe as the engine finally gets hot enough to burn all that carbon sludge off. Early dtr had a throttle cable with a junction box that compensated for wear in the cables.The later models had an adjustable oil pump cable instead of the junction box. Take off the oil pump cover and look to make sure the marks on the oil pump line up. The oil pump cable rotates a black plastic wheel.On this wheels are some marks.Turn the throttle wide open and the marks on the wheel should align with a protuded stub on the oil pump body.Thats if it is an early model pump? The later model has the black wheel facing you rather than being side on On no account take the pump apart to alter the flow rate.In my 14 years of playing with yam stinkwheels i have never seen an oil pump needing its flow rate modifying
nice one gav as always ! forgot i had an iridium ix spark plug in the shed, put that in today and fired straight up and the bike ran nice, just been out for an hour no problems, bikes flying !
the bike didnt really like the irridum one when i had it in before ,but it went ok with it yesterday and this morn
i had a nice ride on it 10 miles in to town, and bought a brand new standard one, and also a ngk G racing competition one , BR9EG , ,in a red box, he said thats the one to use or the standard, i said i had an iridium and he aid you dont really wanna be using that in it
whats up with the G racing competition one gav ? what are the difference between a BR9EG , and BR9ES ?? ,i also bought a brand new br9es today aswell !!
bloke in the shop reckoned the g one would be best at mo coz its designed to run in oily engines or something , perfect for while im running it in ? it was fine on the way home n for about 15 miles
What's the diffbetween the 2 as I belive my bike is also using to much oil since plug is black and oily so I was thinking iridium would spark better and use less volts since my electric on my bike odd and the battery some times cuts out :) and bike the runs bit funny but if you say that others would be better I won't argue I was just wondering why
if my bikes too rich would that make it back fire only when the bikes warm and would turning the air/mix screw out by 1/8th at a time help this or would i need to do a carb strip down
-- Edited by tazard on Wednesday 6th of May 2009 06:24:14 AM
I have the on off reserve but If I take the tank off I need to pull the tubes off tank to get to the carb o I have a Tdr 125 not sure if dt is different
The 'racing' plug is just a hotter burning plug.Yes it will burn oil off more efficiently but will increase cylinder temperature.Not good on a 2 stroke.Remember also that whilst running in you aren't going to be going very fast so less cooling air around the rad.Yamaha recommends a spark plug for a purpose.Just carry a spare BR9ES and a 21mm spanner with you. Taz,if the plug is getting very oily and fouling easy then i would first check the oil pump settings.Do not adjust the mixture screw from its 1 1/2 turns base setting
had the raging one in, and my engine went again after about 25 miles as its been doing, went to put the brand new br9es in...and had forgot to take the little silver bit on the tip off, n couldnt do it by hand lol, luckily had the iridium in my pocket n put that in and got home ok !
so il put the new br9es in tomorrow n see how it goes !
done 250 miles now, reckon thats good to let it fully rip ?
yeah i checked that, thats all fine by the looks of it the markers line up but i went to a bike shop and they said its more likely to be running lean and not burning off the oil if i been running for a while is become all black and not very efficient, and not all my journeys are miles so that could cause it as it wouldnt have been off the choke long. i need to clean my air filter since i dont know the bikes 40000 mile history im gonna clean the air filter and all the electrics check all the the cables as my clutch cable seems to be slow if you know what i mean and i dont have a tacho cable so no idea of revs :(
does any one know price for the cables bike shop was saying 20 for clutch and 20 for tacho but that seems litle steep
but you shouldnt ride for long with the choke on, and try not to just make real short journeys all the time withoutr letting the engine get really hot and burn up some of the crap in it, the air filter should always be clean and all cables and everything should always be at the right setting !
