Hey guys, haven't been around for a while been working away alot, haven't even been out on my bike for the past month which has been a bummer.
Anyways i've taken the carb out for a clean and inspection tonight. I've notived that the air screw cannot be turned either way. It is jammed in there good, i wanted to remove it like you can do with the idle screw just to check the condition.
It looks like someone has had a poke at it before as the head of the screw is abit mangled. I was going to play around with the mixture as i think it's running abit lean, but no chance of this now.
What do you think, is replacing the carb abit extreme? Or is there another way to somehow remove it?
All the best.
-- Edited by Spartan on Saturday 5th of June 2010 09:06:36 PM
Right, tried loads of wd40 and some heating but still no luck. It got to the stage where the head of the screw had crumbled away and no flat head screwdriver could turn it.
It's now been drilled out, i went slightly off angle and into the side of the screw hole widening it abit but this shouldn't matter i'm thinking as the rubber o-ring will still seal it up at the bottom - as long as the screw doesn't wobble about now
I think it was the spring that was causing it to jam it the end. I was at my local yammy shop yesterday and ordered a new air screw - £10 ffs!
Robin, are the air screws the same for dt's and dtr's? I worked out my carb is a flat side i think.
-- Edited by Spartan on Sunday 6th of June 2010 02:01:30 PM
Pre-99 its 1.5 turns out, 99-03 its 1.25 turns out, and 04 onwards its 0.25 turns out. Wind it in fully until it lightly seats (hardly any pressure) then wind it out accordingly.
__________________
Just because I don't care, it doesn't mean I don't understand...!
Cool good to know cheers malc. Yeah thanks for info about the setup too, will make things easier for when i get the new one, just waiting on yammy dealer now.
With the setup of the idle screw I was just going to adjust it by ear, i don't have a rev meter but that should be ok shouldn't it?
Yeah, just wtf Yamaha were thinking when they left the tacho off the DTRE/X I'll never work out...
When's the engine's nicely warmed up, just adjust it til it ticks over smoothly without racing.
Spartan wrote:
Cool good to know cheers malc. Yeah thanks for info about the setup too, will make things easier for when i get the new one, just waiting on yammy dealer now.
With the setup of the idle screw I was just going to adjust it by ear, i don't have a rev meter but that should be ok shouldn't it?
__________________
Just because I don't care, it doesn't mean I don't understand...!
Yeah, I've done it myself, can be a ballache getting parts cheap, engine internals I had to buy at Yamahahaha spares prices, but its not difficult as the engine casings are almost pre-RE/X anyway.
__________________
Just because I don't care, it doesn't mean I don't understand...!
Well got the new air screw today and put it in but guess what i gotta a problem now
For the past hour i have been trying it at different settings but no matter what whenever i apply the throttle the response is very slow, if i quickly open it up fully it just dies.
I think this is right - turning the screw left makes it leaner and right makes it richer?
I put the screw in all way until it seated and then turned it .25 of a turn to the left. Have tried turning it more in small steps but i can't get the throttle to respond fast enough.
I have tried adjusting the idle screw too - the bike idles at a good speed but as soon as i give it the beans there is nothing there???
I'm abit confused, fekking air screw. What do you think?
Thanks for replies guys. Yep i warmed the bike up first, in fact i forgot to mention that it started to overheat after about 5min so much so that the coolant expansion bottle started to bubble like a kettle. Had to switch the bike off cause it was too hot.
What would cause it to overheat so quickly?
Over the weekend I had the carb out to clean, also had to drill the air screw out, only thing i couldn't do was remove the floats to check the jetting, the pin would not come out and tbh i did not have the correct tool to remove it (needle nosed pliers). Oh and I made sure to bleed the oil pump too as the oil delivery pipes were disconnected.
Hmm...I know the fuel pipe is not kinked because i made sure of that when i put the carb back in.
Sorry for ignorance DeeTee that is the main gasket which sits between the cylinder block and head?
Just thinking when i connected the two pipes back to the carb coming off the cylinder block - sitting on the bike i connected the oil pipe to the left upper pipe on carb and the other to the right lower pipe on carb, think it's a warmer/breather pipe. Does that make sense?
If these pipes are connected incorrectly could that cause problems?
cheers for the pics, i can't get to my bike now but i will check tomorrow. I think i've got it setup right.
I'm not sure how the head gasket might have blown though, the bike hasn't been out my garage for almost a month now , the only thing i have done is take the carb out and replace the air screw.
The last time i went out on it there were no signs of any faults, no overheating. If i didn't replace the screw it would have been on me mind, things like that get to me if they aint right haha.
-- Edited by Spartan on Thursday 10th of June 2010 10:29:29 PM
After speaking to a mate at work today it turned out to be the needle, I took it out the carb and you know the 3 knotches at the top, the little circlip was at the bottom so was allowing more petrol in than needed - it was being flooded which is why it was dying. I put it back to the middle knotch and it works fine now, the airscrew actually works now too so i can tweak it. Throttle is responsive again, just got back from a ride.
The overheating has stopped, apparently as the bike was stationary there was no airflow through the radiator to cool it down as i was revving it.