Hi guys just got the dt rebored and the chap was saying to use loctite 5699 gasket sealer on the head gasket looking at the manual there is no mention of use of gasket sealer . has anyone used it on there rebuild also on getting the head skimmed he put a stud in the top throw the water jacket and butted to the gasket face he said this is a week spot that always goes anybody seen this thanks stomper
I've sometimes used a bit of instant gasket to seal the seal the head if i've not renewed the gasket! But if i fit a brand new gasket theres no need for sealer...
Don't understand what your trying to say about this weak spot malarky ?
I've sometimes used a bit of instant gasket to seal the seal the head if i've not renewed the gasket! But if i fit a brand new gasket theres no need for sealer...
Don't understand what your trying to say about this weak spot malarky ?
what i am trying to say is it a common problem or just an extra rip off malarky?
Didn't on mine, although the guy in the shop said layer abit of grease on the gaskets. The haynes manual also suggests lightly greasing the base gasket but does not mention it being necessary for the head gasket.
-- Edited by Spartan on Saturday 14th of August 2010 05:49:50 PM
My mate att work was a racer a few yrs ago club level ,raced tzs 125 n won a few races asked him abt strippin head down ,his hints were .. when emptyin coolant blow down top hose rad , up to you to expell any excess water that may spill in to cases when removin head/barrel , but my main point is he said ensure to grease base gasket but NOT head gasket .. he only ever used genuine head gaskets on his race bike n they never let him down , ALWAYS use a torque wrench ,av borrowed his snap on wrench personally but apparently you cant get to the base studs with a torque wrench ,so he claims but i will find out tomorrow ... Dave doubt anyone one will know my mate but the racer in question is/was shaun marsdon
-- Edited by hairdoo on Saturday 14th of August 2010 06:43:09 PM
Like hairdoo says, NEVER use anything on the head joint except a new head gasket. I am not going to comment on the pattern versus original equipment gaskets cos I've never had bad experiences with pattern. I always use a torque wrench and always check the head warpage is within tolerance - maybe them figures serve a purpose after all?
@ hairdoo - you won't get a torque wrench onto the base stud bolts, nip them up finger tight then another half turn and you'll be close enough.
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Just because I don't care, it doesn't mean I don't understand...!
Hmm i think use a torque wrench ,on the head you can get to 4 out of the 5 studs but no way are u gettin it on the very front stud ! what to do av to nip up with spanner on that one i guess so much for torque setting ppl Theres a thought in my younger days we used to heat up head gaskets till they were cherry red b4 fitting em , anyone still doin this.. Gonna post pics of my engine strip ltr this afternoon soon as ive dropped barrel of 4 rebore at S E P engineering in kegworth ! so off to the tin box for run down M1 later!! ... Dave
-- Edited by hairdoo on Monday 16th of August 2010 08:42:22 AM
hairdoo wrote:Hmm i think use a torque wrench ,on the head you can get to 4 out of the 5 studs but no way are u gettin it on the very front stud !
Same issue here, unless you put the head on first, torque it down then put the barrel in the frame - think this way is a little more tricky though? I don't own one yet, I just made sure to tighten them all up equally.
Why would that be necessay hairdoo? Glad to hear you're getting your rebore done btw, they fairly local to you?
well way i see it the settings are there 4 a reason , just wanna be sure i do it right ! cylinders now at SEP theyre in kegworth abt 40 miles from me but were recommended to me ,they even do race engines etc there ,classic rebuilds
it was standard practice in the 80s all head gaskets were heated up then quenched in cold water , the claim was it put them in a better state to do their job ,even the shop wud tell you to do it when you bought one Promised it would take 3 days,better do as gotta rebuild her ready for work monday week
-- Edited by hairdoo on Tuesday 17th of August 2010 06:37:58 AM
Just let the engine run when gaskets and everything else is on, the heat of the engine seals the gaskets down so no leaks, saves time doing it any other way!!!!!
You wanna tighten it up to the torque settings in the haynes manual, otherwise loads of water will be pi$$ing out from the head and going around the piston and who knows where else. What i think PatMan is on about is, tighten everything up as you would normally but rather then let the bike sit there a while, start her up just after you've finished and let it run for a while so it seals all the fresh gaskets Also when you've finished with it only top it up with water, that way if there is any leaks it dont waste coolant or make a slippery patch where the coolant was leaked. After a hour or 2 if you havn't noticed any leaks then i would replace some of the water with coolant
there in lies my origional question!!, how to torque head up as no room to get torque wrench on front cylinder nut to torque it unless i can fit head on barrel first , hmm would there be room to do this n get piston on ?
I'm not too sure on how to torque it up myself, was a nightmare trying to get to some of the awkward angles just taking the head off!! I'm going to have the same problem when it comes around to putting my head back on after it's been skimmed. Be sure to let me know how it goes
am gonna see if theres room to get head on then get onto piston, the other option is also to fit 1 circlip into piston then fit piston into barrel offer it all up as one piece then just slip gudgeon pin thru piston n little end then its just one more circlip to fit withot pinging it soewhere lol or god forbid drop t into cases so stuff rag into cases if you try doin this eh
... Dave
we used to heat up head gaskets till they were cherry red b4 fitting em , anyone still doin this..
