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DT125R Forum -> Tuning -> Clutch pushrod
Post Info TOPIC: Clutch pushrod
kevin


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Clutch pushrod
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Hi guys, my clutch has been slipping lately and as it was a nice day thought I'd change the plates.
Removed to side case and went to undo the lock nut on the pushrod only to find that the previous owner had snapped the screwdriver slot that you use to hold and stop the pushrod from spinning.
Now I'm stuck as the pushrod is just spinning and I have no way of stopping it so I can undo the lock nut no

any help appreciated.

I've just ordered another pushrod as there only cheap but still can't remove the old one.

-- Edited by kevin on Sunday 9th of January 2011 01:35:35 PM

-- Edited by kevin on Sunday 9th of January 2011 01:52:55 PM

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Dickhead


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cany you take a pic of the part

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kevin


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ok mate here is a pic of the clutch and in the middle is the push rod with the locknut.



This is a close up of the pushrod and locknut, you are supposed to be able to hold the center of the pushrod with a flat bladed screw driver and then undo the lock nut with a spanner but as you can see there is no longer a slot in the pushrod and I cant stop it spinning to undo the locknut.



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jack_p92


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does it turn with everything? if so get a bar to stop the whole clutch turning? if not, drill and tap it, then get a bolt in it.

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kevin


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No it's just the pushrod and nut that turns while I am holding the clutch still. I think your right jack, it's looking like I'm going to have to drill it out, just wanted to avoide it, I've got a new pushrod on it's way anyway.

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Dickhead


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take the clutch pressure plate off be carefull not to lose the ball bering

then put the shaft in a vice from the outher side or use mole grips

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kevin


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Oh so your saying that plate should just pull off now with the locknut and pushrod in place?
I just assumed the push rod would be secured from the other end for some reason lol.

Cheers for that Robin I'll give that a go tomorrow and hopefully the new pushrod won't take long coming.

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Dickhead


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nope it goes about 60mm into the shaft then thers a ball bering then anuther rod would be a bad idear to take the bering out and check for flat spots

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Dickhead


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oh and urs dont look right dont think it shud have a big washer onit likr that

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louisBOSS


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I need that ball bearings, i cna get it , but my mate didnt have it his clutch worked fine , myn didnt ever and it worked fine. werid

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kevin


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Oh my god, I can't believe how easy the plate and pushrod came out after spending so long trying to get the locknut of, what a plank!!!

I'll look into the washer, wouldn't surprise me with the amount of other stuff bodged!

I even found all the metal clutch plates in the same position so that will explane the vibration!!!

I'll also give that bearing a look over.

Cheers for the advice Robin.

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Spartan


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Hmmm wonder what the other guy was up to then with the clutch plates, I'm guessing they all shouldn't be in the same position, kev you gonna have to take them all out and re-position them? Sorry this area of the bike is still completely new to me at the mo xD

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DT125X 2007
kevin


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Hi Spartan, It's just the metal plates in between the friction plates that I'm replacing anyway. The 5 or so metal plates have a tag on them and these should be spaced out evenly to balance the clutch at about 60 degrees each.

If all the tags are in the same position when the clutch spins up it vibrates the engine.

I't explained a little better here, gincat dose a better job of explaining lol.

vibration???



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Spartan


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ah i get it cheers dude

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Dickhead


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nicked a  pic of somone hope thay dont mind hers is what it should be like no washer between the lock nuts

165378_10150127043298033_767033032_7723552_1012714_n.jpg

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Spartan


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hey Kev, how'd you get on with your clutch plates, all working now and back to normal?

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DT125X 2007
kevin


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Hi mate, yeah got it back together yesterday, Ive only ran it up in the garage due to the weather but it seems ok. Got a few other small jobs that need doing before the rain clears then I'll take it out for a spin.

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