when i get my dt the power valve need sorting i got it working correctly but just read its sopost to turn anti clock wiles and mine turns clockwise its a 2002 and i read the older bikes have the powervalve cables crossed but arfter 1997 they stop being crossed so im not to sure if its turning the right way =/ allso the last 2 days iv been haveing a problem starting my dt it sparks and as far as i can tell petrol is geting into the barrle but its proply confuesing me i cant seem to work out why it wont start yesterday took about 35 kick 5 bumps and then 2 more kick and it fired up find and i ran it for 35-45 min wile i played on her but today about 7 bumps and 70 kicks and it wont start and started to get dark so i had to tuck her in not working =[
If yours is a 2002 then I don't think they should be crossed, you can easily tell just by looking at the two cables. I Have added a dodgy looking MS Paint pic for you to see, did it quickly but you'll get the idea.
You will also be able to tell if it's working when your riding around, if you can feel the burst of extra power, then it works. The only thing the Y.P.V.S does is open to let more exhaust fumes out through the exhaust, enabling the engine to run quicker. The DT's are normally set to around 7,000 RPM, this can be adjusted by turning the nuts at the bottom of each cable to lower or heighten them. Doins so will change when the power valve opens.
Give it a try, just remember where they were when you started! I had mine set so it opened at around 3,000RPM, along with my custom exhaust the acceleration was awesome.
As far as your bike not starting, i have recently just posted on another thread about this problem. If your getting a good spark and the petrol is getting through then it's probably you carb. carefully clean it out, if you do blow through it to see if air is getting through then do it gently, just to check, as this can mess up the float settings.
Good luck with it mate.
-- Edited by StartSoIllFinishOn1 on Wednesday 16th of March 2011 03:16:02 PM
mine are uncrossed and when it worked it seemed to kick in erly as when it was idaling i was looking at the powervalve and it was turning at about 3-4 k
Then they must be fine, but have been set up to open early. Your adjusters are probably set to - No.1 Lower, No.2 Higher, you just screw them up and down. You can put number 1 higher and 2 lower and take it back to 7,000RPM.
when i got it the round wheel on the server moto was up side down so i put that on right and then adjusted it with a alen key in the hole and when it ran it kicked in erly
when i got it the round wheel on the server moto was up side down so i put that on right and then adjusted it with a alen key in the hole and when it ran it kicked in erly
Yeah that's just when your putting it back together that you line up the holes, but unless you adjust the cables then it will stay in the same place. There's a round disc that the cables connect into, which turns when you adjust them. If you did want to change it you should use tippex or something to mark the original position, then adjust each one a bit at a time until your happy with it.
The trouble is when people have tempered with them before you get it is that if it's open all the time then the bike will be sh*** at low speeds.
That's interesting, are you saying by changing the height at which the adjusters are will shift the powerband? I thought they were there purely to decrease the slack in the cables.
I have a question about all of this, as the powervalve operated differently to my old Mito and this is different to me. So I've observed what my powervalve on my DTR does on a normal cycle.
1) Turn the key, the powervalve does a cleaning check clockwise then anti-clockwise.
2) Start the bike, rev to 3000 ish RPM and the powervalve moves clockwise closing the port.
Is the above correct?
Only problem I have from here is I have so far been unable to observe what happens come 7000 rpm, as the bike gurgles and coughs and generally complains when I try to rev it at a stand still when the engine isn't up to full operating temp. And it still struggles even when it is up to operating temp.. Very frustrating. I've noticed that the bike takes a very long time to get up to a good temp, I used to be able to sit my mito ticking over for a few minutes and it would warm up quite quickly, doesn't seem to be the same story with the DTR, it seems to take forever, even when I rev it on and off for 5 or so minutes.
Kinda hoping my impending top end rebuild fixes this!
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Spartan: Yes they are adjusters and not just there for tightening. By adjusting them it changes the starting position.
Spadge: If you were to just wedge them open constantly this is what causes the problem of poor running at lower speeds in higher gears. So if you were doing 30 in 3rd it would feel boggy and take a while to pick up, in can be a pain in the ass as you'll end up on 2nd goind through villages.
Mammoth200: 1) Turn the key, the powervalve does a cleaning check clockwise then anti-clockwise.
2) The powervalve moves to open the port, letting out more fumes so the engine can perfom quicker, it a bit like taking off your air filter so the engine gets more air...
The powervalve is set to fully open at around 7000 RPM when manufactured, by adjusting it you make the port open earlier.
So....
If you take your bike out then you can feel when the powervalve works. If it starts early then you'll have better accelaration but your top end will probably be effected as it's not being aided by the powervalve, if it comes in at around 7000 RPM then it's normal.
I know when the powervalve opens when I'm going along, the exhaust noise increases and the bike sounds like it should sound! I'm pretty certain that isn't until 8000rpm though... so which adjuster do I need to move to push it down to 7000?
I adjusted the cables slightly the other day when I took the powervalve out to clean it and when it did the cleaning check it sounded more laboured than it usually does? So I basically put them back where they were.
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