My DTR 2001 reg , it will start with the choke on but then over revvs , then when i take the choke off it drops the revs rapid and if i dont manually keep revving the bike it will cut out
The bike is rideable but i cant get it to idle on its own and kick starting it takes quite a few attempts ?
there is a screw situated on the left of the carb, it is a philips style, or cross head screw, that is machined large to be wound by hand/ I would recommend attempting to screw this in clockwise in small increments until the revs begin to hold themselves at around 1500 rpm. Ideally you need to do this when the engine is warm for best results.
If you try this and the rpm still doesn't settle, then you need to begin looking for either fuel blockages or air leaks. You may be running the engine slightly lean, which would cause the revs to increase without your input. You need to make sure that the air filter is clean, and there is no breaks or gaps between the airbox and the engine. Everything needs to make a good seal.
Also, you may want to adjust the pilot screw, which is a small brass screw with a flat blade head on the carb that sits in a recessed hole. This should be wound all the way in (when the bike is off) and then turned between 1 & 1/2 to 2 turns anti clockwise.
If you can, try and keep to one thread about the same problem, otherwise it makes it more difficult for us to decipher what advice you have been given! I have just realised I have now given you the same advice twice in 2 different threads.......
-- Edited by mammoth200 on Sunday 27th of March 2011 12:12:39 AM
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Ok , ive changed the spark plug , changed the air filter , on the carburettor there is 2 screws , 1 screw with a phillips head , the other with a flat head which is down a barrel , i think is the idle speed control bolt ? well that one is tight and the head rounded off so i cannot undo it , i had the bike running and it rides but its very juggery , its better than before now i changed the spark plug , but then it stalled when i released the revs and now i cant start it back up ?
Your bike will never idle properly if that screw is knackered, I struggle to understand why people think they need to do it all the way up, anyway, it controls the idle circuit. When your bike is idling, that screw determines how much fuel is getting through to the engine. Being completely nipped up obviously cuts it off. The bigger screw with the philips head determines how much air the engine gets while it idles. there is no straight forward definition on where that screw is supposed to be set, and it varies heavily from bike to bike. Sometimes its easier to have it wound in a little too far, then whilst the bike revs high, you can wind it down. But until you can sort out the knackered screw, its a little pointless I'm afraid!
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The choke runs on a different circuit, which you activate when you pull the lever. Basically it puts more fuel in, and reduces the amount of air. This is why when you try to ride the bike with the choke on, its usually boggy and not very powerful.
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Classic signs of fuel starvation. have you had the carb apart? Its revving by itself because its starved of fuel. You need to have your carb off and everything needs to be cleaned, all the jets cleared, and that knackered screw needs to be either replaced, or at least moved out 1 & 1/2 turns.
Just to let you know, my bike behaves in a very similar way when i'm getting low on fuel and i have to switch over to reserve.
-- Edited by mammoth200 on Sunday 27th of March 2011 07:47:17 PM
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I've had the carb off , stipped and cleaned out , all the jets and passages were free , couldn't see any blockages , so its looking like that valve needs to be screwed out , ill try again tomorrow ! the head on it is so worn from previous owners attempts, ill let you know how i get on thanks alot !
Just another quick one , when im in neutral the oil light comes on ?
Just one other suggestion matty, try having a look at the needle. Make sure it's not bent or anything, also there is a circlip at the top which can be adjusted higher or lower to allow more fuel or air in. If it helps here are the standard settings for a 2001 carb:
Air screw: 1.25 turns out Needle circlip position - 4th groove from top Engine idle speed - 1300-1400 rpm
That's normal, the oil light should be on in neutral. When you pop it into gear (as long as you have oil in the 2-stroke tank!) you'll notice the light goes out.
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The long gold needle that screws into the top of the carb ?
this is a pretty dumb question , but where is the 2 stroke oil tank ? , i know i have a fuel tank , next to that says engine oil , then the actual engine itself has a screw for oil too ?
How long have you had the bike? Was it running well and then started to play up?
fancy buying a 2-stroke bike, and not knowing it needs 2-stroke oil! There is a tank, on the front of the bike, opposite side to the radiator.
Go to halfords. Buy a bottle of castrol TTS. Its a green bottle, and about £11.
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You are one person, out of 7 billion people. On one planet, out of 8 planets. In one starsystem, out of 100 billion star systems. In one galaxy out of 100 billion galaxies
You are one person, out of 7 billion people. On one planet, out of 8 planets. In one starsystem, out of 100 billion star systems. In one galaxy out of 100 billion galaxies
I knew it needed 2 stroke oil , the bottle opposite side to the radiator its full of oil in there already :) and ive had the bike since friday, i bought it knowing it had this problem thinking it would be a simple carb clean out !
Thank f*ck for that. In that case, read the manual anyway, and carry on with the carb work!
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You'll want to be speaking to your local yamaha dealer or bike shop, someone had said in a previous post on here it'll cost you about a tenner.
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The long gold needle that screws into the top of the carb ?
Yes mate that's it. In most cases the needle can be removed without actually taking the carb out of the bike, just slacken the clamps on either side and rotate the carb. Remove the two screws on top where the throttle cable goes into.
yesh, mine ticks over quite happily at 1400 rpm, that's the norm and also what it says in the Haynes manual
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