Basically replaced the throttle cable, the oil pump cable is FAR too long though, but I can get around adjusting it
Question is, is the oil pump suppose to be fully closed (as in if there was no cable attached) when on idle or should it be opened a little and then fully open at max throttle?
Last thing I want is it to be running at idle and no 2 stroke going into it - just not sure if when it's fully closed is it actually closed or is the valve still open a little so oil can trickle in for tick over
Haynes manual said it should pick up the slack when throttle is moved so I'm guessing it is always a little open even when it's fully closed but just want to check before I blow it up.
Hope this makes sense
-- Edited by Harry on Friday 1st of June 2012 04:24:36 PM
Yeah it feeds down via gravity, but lets say you undo the throttle cable off the pump - is the oil still getting into the engine as a trickle or is the valve totally shut?
I assume it always trickles, would be quite a design flaw if it didn't.
Unless you mean the smaller pipe, haven't tried that
-- Edited by Harry on Friday 1st of June 2012 04:48:03 PM
Here's the adjuster. You'll need to twist it until the lines align. If it's too stretch then you can bodge it. Pull it back until both lines meet. Then put a cable tie between it hexagonal nut and the other side. This should hold it into position.
Follow this pipe to:
Here:
Here if you want a better view
Pull it out. Pour oil down the cylinder and start the engine to keep it lubricated and wait until oil comes trickling out. Blip the throttle to activate the oil pump. Or premix the engine and just ride the bike. It should sort itself out. That's usually what I do. Bike smokes loads on start up which is the obvious clue whether it's getting oil
Wait for what other people say about this though. Back up my idea.
-- Edited by Calum122 on Friday 1st of June 2012 05:47:07 PM
There should always be a constant trickle, then when you open up the throttle the trickle becomes greater, take the cover off take the tube off grab a little bottle etc and check it out for yourself, mine is adjusted for the maxiumum amount of oil.
ya cant have no oil going thru on tick over or it will sieze up u nerd, the allignment is set when the throttle is wide open if u look in the manual mate so the lines meet up on the casting and the wheel, iv just pulled all mine off an d will be running premix from now on, lots more piece of mind for me any way
Line that up means that it'll give it some oil when throttle is shut off. Should be pretty taught. Remember to bleed the system if you're taking the pipes off!
so the lines meet up on the casting and the wheel, iv just pulled all mine off an d will be running premix from now on, lots more piece of mind for me any way
Pain in the arse for everyone who uses it day in day out LMAO!
Deadly. If you get an air bubble it won't pump oil into the engine.
The oil pump can be adjusted. Look at the oil pump housing. Theres a cable that comes out with a hexagonal nut thing on. Just turn that so the notch starts turning clockwise. Line it up with the notch next to it.
I will get it done asap, is the bleed screw just left of the wheel on this picture? I can adjust the cable to pull it more or less on idle so that shouldn't be an issue
What I don't quite get is where it is suppose to sit on closed throttle
This is how it is when no cable is attached
When I put the cable on and make it taught, it sits like this (same position)
Or should I adjust it so it it's like this?
I can go look at my mates if there is an issue, should have taken a photo before I replaced the cable
Yeah. Those lines should be facing directly towards each other. Otherwise it means there's no oil when the throttle is shut off. For now. Blip the throttle when idle, down hill must blip it loads!
No I'll take a few pics of where to bleed the system. And type you threw it. Give me ten mins,
Thanks for the pictures that makes a lot of sense, I had to bodge the cable a bit but the lines are lined up so it's good, don't have any other two stroke at the moment except what's in the tank so will get some tomorrow
Does sound an interesting way to bleed it lol will give it a shot and see what happens
Thanks for the pictures that makes a lot of sense, I had to bodge the cable a bit but the lines are lined up so it's good, don't have any other two stroke at the moment except what's in the tank so will get some tomorrow
Does sound an interesting way to bleed it lol will give it a shot and see what happens
Well it's how you'd bleed any system. Open it up and activate it.
Brakes, Open the nipple and push down on the brakes to expel out the air.
Obviously the oil pump isn't a closed circuit. So you can just run it. Best thing to do is to do premix. with some fuel in the tank. By the time you've ran out of fuel you would have expelled the air out the system. Just that's risky. Mate seized his DT170 for not bleeding the system.
Nah, it really shouldn't take that long for the oil to get to through the pipes out. At least if you take the oil pipe off you know for sure that it's going through. A dollope of oil down the cylinder will last long enough until then. I'd say whatevers left in your tank should do. Unless you are empty. Too much oil down the cylinder is just as bad as too little. Get a thing called 'Sticky rings'
Sorry for dragging old post. Trying to fit new throttle cable. Not genuine Yamaha cable but got little excess on pump cable. Tried the adjuster but still too much. Any tips to sort? Not sure what's meant about cable tie fix?
