Because of the way that thing there looks, and you might be worried that you can take it off but be unable to screw it back in again, go the other side and drain from the neutral switch. might help some, as that definately looks like some sort of bodge job, does that.
-- Edited by NEV on Saturday 16th of June 2012 01:16:37 PM
So I checked my transmssion level and I couldnt see any level in the sight glass, so I started topping up with 10-40 semi synthetic, but ive put a litre in and there STILL isnt a level in the sight glass, so Im confused and want to drain the oil back out and simply measure 750ml (which is right yeah? all this cubic centimetres has me a bit confused) and go from there.
BUT, is this the sump plug? How do I get it out? I'm a pretty proficient mechanic, but the manual shows a bolt head, not this thing, am I looking in the right place?
Go to a local fixings place instead you will get a whole bag of em for like £5,if you take the side casing off you should be able to get hold of the rest of the bolt that's left in there with some mole grips and remove it,gently heating it can free it up,if you just put a new thread in the casing you are just bodging it ,the bolt is quite long because it is also one of the bolts that hold the casing on,if you poke something in that hole to see how far in it broke u will then have the length you need for a new bolt,or just order one from yam at your local bike shop.
Hope this helps
-- Edited by GADGET on Saturday 16th of June 2012 11:13:12 PM
Yeah I might re tap a larger bolt in then, it does look like its weeping a bit tbh I might get a replacement bolt kit for the engine too. The side casings been off in the past and some on the heads are a bit rounded, good job I have an impact driver in my tool box
cos there's a million and one gimps out there that wont just get in there and fix something.... welcome to dt ownership mate fix it up little by little and it'll be a stunner tho...
looks like the thread has gone at some point and some lazy fcker has hammerd that in its place ........ defo not stanndard
prob best option is to pull it out drain then hammer it back in see if it holds oil ok as there will be no thread for a bolt ..unless you rethread it and use a bigger bolt
Go to a local fixings place instead you will get a whole bag of em for like £5
Agree with Gadget on this with going to local fixings place works out way much cheaper that way for what you end up paying for on ebay you can get atleast double the amount from them than what you pay from fleabay. So you got a bag of spares that you can throw on the shelf. I should of saved my invoice reciepts It would of been a good idea to do a sticky of all sizes needed unless there is a thread already as I haven`t checked
-- Edited by Ralzy on Sunday 17th of June 2012 10:04:58 AM
Ok the bolt is 80mm long but only the last 25mm is threaded so as you can see the thread is like 55mm down inside the hole,take the case off and you will be able to remove the old one then just fit new one ,no tapping new threads needed,and for the price of that one in the diagram you may as well buy that one as the bolt doesnt seem like something you could get elsewhere coz the thread is thicker than the shaft,good luck buddy
-- Edited by GADGET on Sunday 17th of June 2012 05:59:34 PM
Afternoon all, Thanks for all the replies, really appreciate it.
This morning I drained all the oil back out through the neutral switch (Thanks for the tip Nev) but all that drained out was virtually the litre I had put in, so it was obviously dry. To be honest thats why I was checking. When I took the bike out last weekend after I had derestricetd it, the gearbox sounded loud, sounded dry if you know what I mean.
So, Ive measured 750ml (sight glass STILL doesnt look to show owt, I'm very confused) back in and took it for ride. Sounds queiter and happier, and hopefully no lasting damage has been done.
Ive ordered a bolt set off ebay, £12 all in which seems cheap to me for the amount of hardware you get:
So when Ive got a free weekend I'll pull the side casing off, see what I need to do and replace all those manky crosshead screws! Might even whack a new piston & rings on whilst its in bits, but I also want to clean the air filter out and check the carb jetting, it just seems to get a bit hesitant at 8,000 rpm, like its running out of fuel.
-- Edited by gernster on Sunday 17th of June 2012 05:11:45 PM
-- Edited by gernster on Sunday 17th of June 2012 05:15:36 PM
I will measure the one from my spare engine and upload the size for ya dude,
The thread for that bolt is not in the outside casing it's in the centre casing,someone has just been lazy and bunged up the hole,,there is a copper washer that gos in between the flange of the bolt and the outside casing,if you tap a thread in the outside casing it might never seal up and you might end up needing a whole new case.
(sight glass STILL doesnt look to show owt) remember your only gona see the oil if engine not running or after its stood for a bit also it has to be on level ground and stabdibg upright not on side stand ..
I bought that bolt set when I did the kickstart conversion! Worked a flipping treat. You might be missing the old one or two. I think I could have done with two bags. Never the less. 10er for all those bolts was well worth it mate.
I bought that bolt set when I did the kickstart conversion! Worked a flipping treat. You might be missing the old one or two. I think I could have done with two bags. Never the less. 10er for all those bolts was well worth it mate.
lol, and the rest, this is labelled as a bolt kit for this bike, so it's not very useful when you want to change every bolt on the bike, it's just a random selection of all types of bolts
Well to be fair seamy, I bought the kit on your recommendation from your thread on the kick start conversion post you made. If you subsequently think the kit isn't value for money, you should really update your thread.
£10 ish for half or like £5 ish for all (with spares)+ no waiting , but each to there own of corse,if we COULD get all the sizes exact for like just the engine then frame then other areas of bike build then as above we could end up with all the info to get a FULL set from local fixings place ,dirt cheap,+ bolts have a strength rating on them like 8.8 etc so could replicate originals but without the stupid Philips head ,win win,