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Post Info TOPIC: engine is broken again


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engine is broken again
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doh so i was riding along getting up to speed, got to 68mph then engine bogged so quickly clutched it and rolled down the road, wouldnt start after that so had to face the long push home..

 

anyway the only reason i can think of is because the oil pump has broken? so how can i check? (full tank of petrol and oil! so didnt run out)

 

all the worse as engine has only done 147 miles since full overhaul so going to have to find the money for a new piston from somewhere no



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I'd get the top end off first and have a look, could be another reason for it.

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already whipped the whole top end off, head gasket was fine and coolant levels were fine, i did notice a rattle in the engine, sounded sort of like piston slap of something but my dad insisted it was normal

piston is badly marked/sort of melted just to the right of the arrow facing the exhaust port, will upload a picture tomorow if i remember



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Is the cylinder standard size? Has it badly damaged the bore?

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not sure on size but its not standard, its more than 2.5 tho as piston from my other barrel is loose fit, from what i can see there's metal from the piston stuck to bore but no scratches or scores

took about an hour pushing it home and got stopped by the police twice confuse apparently your not allowed to roll on the pavement at 10mph haha



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MDK


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yeah get some piccys up dude sure these lads can say whats wrong...

and the orzzers lol ..if its getting stolen they are never there but if your pushing it and sat half on the seat they are there in seconds ....

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DTR125CO-1.jpg


de restrictions

good clean up of a old batterd  dtr  95

 



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scaled.php?server=833&filename=camerazoom2012071617524.jpg&res=landing

 

heres a picture of the worst part, its the left side facing the exhaust port, the right side is scratched up too but not as bad. Checked rings and says '50' on them so this means its 5mm oversize?



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ouch! 50 is 0.50,1/2 millimetre oversize(1st rebore) they can go 2mm oversize,so plenty of meat left on it biggrin



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money killed everything....



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ahh okay, so does that mean my other barrel is 0.25 oversize not 2.5? the engine had done 30k miles so i would have thought its more likely to be 2.5

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i'd say so. that would be a really minor rebore that though,good sign its been looked after. they normally have a piston and rings change at 20k,and a rebore if the barrel is worn. a 0.25 rebore is very minor,routine wear smile



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money killed everything....



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Yeah man ,my bikes done 25,000 and is only on 0.50 ,I think they only go to about 2.00 ish before you get power valve damage !,,was you bike pretty standard when you got it ?

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its a TDR so don't know what restrictions they have but it got up to 80mph so dont think it was restricted at all

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Oh oh oh just thought if all the damage is on one side it could mean the seal on that side of the lump has failed,it looks pretty white around that side of the exhaust port ,this would make sense of the marks and their position on the slug white would seem to indicate a lean mix on that side ,the dry side of the crank ,it's easy to put in and only a couple of quid to buy ....can we see a pic of the plug end???

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scaled.php?server=831&filename=camerazoom2012071621364.jpg&res=landing

 

didnt put a new plug in straight away used the old one which died after 3 miles, then had to use a br6es for 30 miles til i got this one



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Don't know what everyone else feels about this but looks lean dude ,air leak air leak lol,defo chec th dry side seal ,this piston was loose anyhow coz of da blowby?..Norfe ? Nev ? Trip ? Bradders? Mdk?etc etc

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NEV


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Deffo looking borderline lean, not very oily on the thread neither, personally I'd plump for oil pump route, air lock? poor mix?, this is why I pre-mix if it is.

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alright, does anyone know the tolerances ect needed for getting barrel rebored as i need to tell the guy tomorow when i take the barrel for him to look at

also there was a rattle which to me sounded like piston slap but i cant be certain

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NEV


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Take head too, may need skimming if warped, running lean means heat, heat tends to warp heads.

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Epiphany !yours is a 3mb with 26mm , these have 56.40 standard piston size as apposed to the later 3bn which has 56.00'mmm this means a 0.50 piston from a later year would only be 0.10 over sized and would end up like this with the rattle aswel ,??? Did you get the piston for your year coz it matters ?? Let us all know man ,we'll help out

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sounds interesting, yeah i believe its the 3mb 'P' head as it has no markings, honestly cant say what piston is in it as dad took it to dynotech and got them to overhaul it all but ill ask him if he has a receipt so i can check, its a 1992

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Ok kool ,I'll get you the exact tolerances for bore wear-in limits tomoz ,peace man I need zed'zzzzzzzzzz

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+ 1 Norfe ,you can use petrol but its safer to use something else,anyone found something that really works for flushing cases and gets all the crap outta there ,something cheap, that's heat seized man deffo,in the Graeme bell 2stroke book there's some good pics of pistons and what causes their damage,there's a copy of it on the forum

-- Edited by GADGET on Tuesday 17th of July 2012 09:50:00 PM

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flash is abit bright on camera so pictures make it all look worse, like the piston hasnt gone white just a light grey

how should i flush out bottom end and bearings NORFE?

EDIT: so i could just wash it out with petrol?



-- Edited by eG x LoGiKzZ on Tuesday 17th of July 2012 09:49:03 PM

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are you saying you opened the bike right up after only doing 147 on a new piston an rebore matey. Does look a bit lean also ,, an that piston looks like its whacked the pv your running servo i take it
i know iv had to alter 2 powervalves on +1.50 overbores killed a piston like this myself

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DTR Trusted Engine Builder

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yeah thats got well hot, lack of lube on that side or air leak, mix up some pre mix fuel and pull the oil line off and put ur finger on the inlet spigot, then hold the pump wide open with the pully and rev the bike see if it pumps oil

if thats ok id start looking ofor the left side crank seal leaking

like nev said to mucjh heat can wreck a head in warpage

and theres no need for a 500 mile break in on a piston

3 heat and cool cycles is fine ,never really run a bike in and never had a problem, 500 miles is just a manufactures thing on a brand new bike

aslong as u give it a nice gentle warm up it wuill be fine



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Can we see the other side of th piston ?,,and a pic of the bore would help,,, also check fuel is gettin thru

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i thought that it could have hit powervalve too but it doesnt touch although could hit after bike gets hot as i havent done any very long runs on it

will try that NORFE, bike does get warmer with the smaller dtr radiator on but not excessively hot... did the three heat cycles and and had been taking it easy, bike was at running temp and had been riding round town with a friend on his 50 for most of the day so obviously wasnt going flat out or redlining it

sending barrel to get rebored, new piston and some gaskets tomorow to hopefully get it all back by weekend or monday

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DTR Trusted Engine Builder

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id check the bottom end out and flush all the bearings out all those bits off alloy offf the piston will wreck the bearings when its running if there left  in there no



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It's not advised but u can if you know what your doing,but yeah norfe's probs got something up his sleeve

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