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Post Info TOPIC: upgrade time...


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upgrade time...
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so after a little bit of offroad action,my dt's bit the dust again furious if i'm not popping innertubes,i'm popping fork seals...

so if i'm going to rebuild them again,any ideas of quality fork seals? pattern just dont cut it biggrin suppose i should just bolt some yz ones on....



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DTR Trusted Engine Builder

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then shunt pop out like that may be the inner fork leg is slightly wons so there not held in tight enough
but these bikes oem gear is not made for heavy off road use altho they look like it its a sales gimik catering for the off road style bike rider

if ur wanting to do proper off roasding id bang some usds on mate not have a problem then
thats why 125 mx forks are twice the size near enough to cope with the riding

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Some sound info there NORFE :)

How are you mate?

Long time no speak

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to be fair i was playing catch-up with a lad on a ktm 450 exc disbelief was getting braver and braver,as you do. then,POP on a landing.... think its defo usd time biggrin 



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ITS A C0CK-OFF!!!! i really dont know who's the bigger c0ck to be fair....me for riding my dt like a goon in a motorcross style lime pit without having checked/rebuilt me forks 1st OR.....

the bloke who sold my mate a "road legal good condition dt" with this done to it.... NO FORK SEAL?????

oh no,my mistake.... there it is...MADE OUT OF GAFFER TAPE!?!??!? WTF!?!!?!

i just dont get how you could do this to a road going bike and sell it,knowing full well this could kill someone? needless to say,me an my mate are going to pay him a visit and "re-adjust" his sense of morals.....



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Haha! Too right mate! You ought to mate. Bloody idiot.



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iv seen some bodges in my time but this really takes the piss! i found with seans forks i rebuilt i jus used oem seals (i think?) but slightly thicker grade oil firms them up nicely but not too hard, easy job to do aswell, easier than i thought it would

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The oil seals are under the metal ring in the photo,the ones missing are the dust seals that stop the oil seals from splitting due to grit etc

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Oh harsh ,I hope yer dog gets better soon man ,I'm a real dog lover always have been and yeah bloody vets a ripoff £££££££ so you have both metal rings and the clip so the tape was inplace off the dust seals to try and take up the gap ,then the tape has given way witch has let the rest hit the clip and forced it out,so oil £10 ish then oil seals and dust seals and there good to go I'll get you some prices man

-- Edited by GADGET on Tuesday 31st of July 2012 07:31:27 PM

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GADGET wrote:

The oil seals are under the metal ring in the photo,the ones missing are the dust seals that stop the oil seals from splitting due to grit etc


 aah course they are lol because that gaffer tape seal popped out,the seal under was moving up and down at will....that mixed with some dirt from the track and POP lol they also had engine oil in them furious might try oem seals and thicker oil BUT i'm tempted to ditch them lol got a yz front end that just needs the stem popped in biggrin



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Yeah man if it's just offroad you should get some quite cheap coz the battered ones tend not to get bid on,if it was for road bike you would want them a bit smarter,,,,the metal ring and evthing should be held in with a big clip in the top of the tubes so that they can't move ?????? Dunno what they've done to yours ,good luck with it man,oh and check nevs parts diagram for the forks cos they might just need a rebuild if something's missing

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i found another metal ring and the clip right up in the top of the gaiter when i cut it off (more holes than my socks) looks like the clip is still good. might rebuild them as spare with thicker oil once i claw back some pennies.... got a sick dog at mo disbelief v expensive lol



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You can get oil and dust seals in one kit for less than £20 ebay I've used them with no probs ,I would send the link but don't know what year yours is

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i'll have to check lol the frames 91,engines tzr 2002,think the forks are 88? will check tomorrow... its a real bitsa,all the left over bits of 3 other dts biggrin



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Think there the same but some places sell them as certain years coz of part numbers being changed over the years

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got up early saturday to take my yokes to the engineers

only to find out my local engineers (seagers) dont open on a saturday? and there's a recession on? clearly dont need the wedge lol so i decided i'd follow norfe's route....wheres the grinder at? biggrin measured them up with the digital calipers and marked it up

(gonna cut the slot later for the steering lock....another ball ache for would be thieves lol) started taking metal off half a mill at a time with a diamond burr

and checking with a straight edge. once it was a quarter mill away from the right size i attacked it with one of these (oakey paint and rust remover)

tenner from Bodgeit&Quickly. there meant for removing paint from cast metal,they also chew through metal slowly....perfect to tidy and smooth

once that was sorted i put the bearing and seal on the shaft (yoke in the fridge for an hour,bearing in the oven. 30 mins at 180c) just pops on nice. 

as norfe said,there was a space which needed to be filled... i didn't have anything to hand but an old crankcase bearing biggrin ideal as its a super-hard metal

popped the middle out,it was spot on. happy days...

i'll have a piece of stainless steel made up to suit when i have a thread machined into it later...

popped the forks in. tightend the top yoke 1st and the tightend the top yoke bolt to pull it all tight,then tightened the bottom yokes. jobs a good un

"the bruise" as its become known,lives again biggrin yz rear end should turn up this week hopefully...



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i've just had a thought,wot a c0ck lol there is a space which needs to be taken up right? wouldn't it be easier to have a bit of steel milled up? it could be machined to fit into the bearing head on the frame and widen out to take a yz bearing as well as that space up? or am i talking crump?



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Wow just found tis thread, you made that conversion look way to easy! I may have to enlist your help AGAIN!! lol

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FunkeyMunkeyDavid wrote:

i've just had a thought,wot a c0ck lol there is a space which needs to be taken up right? wouldn't it be easier to have a bit of steel milled up? it could be machined to fit into the bearing head on the frame and widen out to take a yz bearing as well as that space up? or am i talking crump?


 Thats how i did it 

 

i agree. Like the way tou got stuck in

 

what di you do for a day job. 



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i fit double glazing.

we're renowned bodger's and botchers,no fear of getting stuck in...

or no sense either lol



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why do you have that spacer? why not just slide the top yoke down a bit then tighen up thats how the usd's i had fitted up

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For me it's not a spacer. It houses the bearing. The taper bearing that fits the right size.

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i know your one cal followed it closely when i wanted to do it but seemed alot more hassle.

and the photos loaded now i have answers my own question now i can see the photos the stem is to long


so much easyer pressing in the dt stem


when sgt got his usd's 15 mins after i talked to him on the phone explaining the different ways he called me back said done found a guy with a press and now they fit

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ToySoldier wrote:

why do you have that spacer? why not just slide the top yoke down a bit then tighen up thats how the usd's i had fitted up


 was trying to change the weight balance on the bike bud. 

as it turned out it was ok,just not brilliant....



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