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Post Info TOPIC: ignition timing/ advancing and stepped woodruff keys


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ignition timing/ advancing and stepped woodruff keys
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http://y2s.free.fr/allumage/avance.pdf (with pics)

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fy2s.free.fr%2Fallumage%2Favance.pdf (no pics)

ok now i have ordered a +4 degree woddruff key for a yfs200( blaster ) i have a blaster crank in my 200cc engine and i can confirm the woodruff from a dt125r fits it



-- Edited by the only way is YAMAHA DTR on Monday 3rd of September 2012 01:56:27 PM



-- Edited by the only way is YAMAHA DTR on Monday 3rd of September 2012 01:58:47 PM

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RE: anyone read french? ignition timing
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o wait you can translate pdf's

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fy2s.free.fr%2Fallumage%2Favance.pdf



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Here's the main points for lazy people:


Basicly he's saying advance the ignition by 8 degrees to get the engine to rev up higher in 6th gear.

He says for the DTR you can make a rocket key for which he gives you the dimensions in the pic.

But for the DTX / RE you should instead move the sensor 9mm clockwise.

He also mentions that moving the sensor on the DTR model will only give you 4 degrees advance? (maybe the sensors are mounted differently, or it has a different flywheel im not sure)

Don't do both mods else you will advance the ignition too far and risk engine damage.




Some one needs to try it, who's got some spare steel and a file laying around?



-- Edited by RudiRulez on Friday 31st of August 2012 01:12:55 PM

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DTR Trusted Engine Builder

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HERE U GO SPARRA

ULL HAVE TO WORK IT OUT FROM HERE

 

Yamaha engines are designed to deliver their maximum power at 9500 rpm, beyond the power decreases.

This is voluntary on the part of engineers Yam, how the engine is not too extensive and therefore more reliable!

To do this, they used a ignition curve which decreases very rapidly because it is more than 4 ° advance past

10,200 rev / min!

Except of course for the TZR which were more typical speed, while the base engine is the same.

 

But there are ways to get a gain of almost 1000 rpm!

Here, you will say, "we see coming, he wants us to change the cdi"

All wrong, there is much more simple and free: just "bump" the ignition curve of 8 °.

Indeed, it is this value that gives the best results: above it produces destructive détonnations

for the high engine and below we do not feel a slight gain in torque ...

On my DTR I worked on the magnetic flywheel key, resuming directly what was described on cb

its site

So I set up a key like this one

 

But on motorcycles type TDR, TZR, DTX / RE, and GPR, the rotor is different.

After testing and experience sharing on a common real yam2stroke forum, which gives the best

results for the TDR and TZR (therefore DTX / RE and GPR also seen that the ignition system is the same,

except for TZR cdi) is to shift the ignition sensor.

To win 8 in advance must shift the lighting sensor 9mm as shown in this calculation

 

To change the position of the sensor it is sufficient to remove the ignition cover to gain access to this one.

In this photo from a TDR (ignition system identical to all engines with electric start) on

see what happens with the casing removed

... it may seem tedious, but following the steps well, the mod can be done easily by 1-2
hours, the more complex is to find or make a sensor holder for those that have a model
electric starter!
The results of this mod:
The engine is more torquey down and pushes much stronger way up to 8000 rpm, and most can ...
earn almost 1000 rpm in 6th!
Although all the mods to make towers are not cumulative them ...
If we look further advance obtained, we realize that it is now 0.55 mm before tdc to
10,200 rounds and not 1.3 as before, that much better for power and fuel efficiency.
I also want to mention that I drive like this for over 5 years and I've never had any
problem ... but happiness! "
Here is a picture and use the tools that you can make up yourself.
DTR for up to 99 (or 98?) You must buy a specific flywheel extractor, but not worth going to ruin
Yamaha, a model for booster (yes, I speak of scooter!) first generation is going very well and costs
less than 10 . If you are unsure about the model it is 27mm in diameter, the screw is reversed and the nets are
spaced 1mm
Carefully before you start, remember that:
- The sensor should be shifted in the direction of clockwise, so to the rear of the motorcycle
- The key should help offset the wheel anticlockwise so forward to
motorcycle
- Do not combine mods of the key and the sensor at the same time, otherwise there will be too far ahead and
risk of breaking everything very quickly.
- On the DTR sensor shift gives only 4 more in advance so it is insufficient
- If after mod you hear rattling explosions or large suspect, is that the value of the new
advance is too large for your engine (and you have not complied with the dimensions given here!) and must
absolutely avoid driving like that at the risk of breaking everything!
-The carburation is to check for more impoverished a little advance!
biggrin


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yes the electric start models can move more mm's



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And to move the sensor you need to do what ?, This sounds too good to be true ! . More fuel efficiency and more Horsepower AND torque ?

I actually have a spare engine. I could try this out. Would be AWESOME if it made my dt even faster xD,

But isnt this extra rpm going to ruin the crank or Rod ?

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Sold the DT, Bought a WR 426. Sorry guys.



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ok im watching the pics now, But on the DTX and DT RE models, Do you have to do something to the flywheel too ?,

Or can you do just like him and change the location of the sensor itself ??

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Sold the DT, Bought a WR 426. Sorry guys.



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That's quality.

Nah apparently he's been riding round like it for 5 years and hasn't had a single problem!

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The Leviathan Project



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Okay but how did he do it ?, im blank on this, Do you need to take of the flywheel ? is that why hes showing pictures of it ? or does the flywheel need modification ?

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yh its on the stator

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So i gotta take of the flywheel to reach the sensor ?

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DTR Trusted Engine Builder

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no its on the out side but u will need to take the mag off to get to the screws



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ok thanks, Ill might have a look at this on the spare engine i have laying around to see if it looks like alot of hazzle to get this done xD

Would be fun to test it out and see how big the difference is :D

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Sold the DT, Bought a WR 426. Sorry guys.



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Ok just for u famo ,u can buy a WR key that fits the dtr that is +4* then if you do the dtr version of the mod to get th other +4* ,u will have your +8*

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got a link for it?

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**YOINK** biggrinbiggrinbiggrin 



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Was thinking of trying that, mine at least feels like it's got a little more to give if the ignition was advanced a bit more. Thought the 4DL cdi would do that but it sort of lets it carry on revving but without any real extra power. So if you advanced it it would give the fuel more time to burn off which would make it more efficient so should help it rev better. Wonder if the one PJME sell for the RS would fit...

http://www.pjme.co.uk/acatalog/Aprilia_RS125_Engine_Bottom_End_.html

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i got one from a blaster coming +4 degrees for my new engine, might try it on my 125 engine first, btw i know it fits!



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i orderd a key, because with a longer stroke and bigger bore ignition advancing is needed, also i can adjust it either advance or retard it like in the video



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RE: ignition timing/ advancing and stepped woodruff keys
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sent me this not sure its for a blaster, might fit, http://www.yamahascooterspares.co.uk/spares/epc2.asp?ModelID=9134&pageID=37&m=YAMAHA+DT125R+GENERATOR&uid=0

11092012549.jpg11092012550.jpg



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contacted seller, its for a banshee, i get to keep it and he will send the woodruffbiggrin



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the only way is YAMAHA DTR wrote:

contacted seller, its for a banshee, i get to keep it and he will send the woodruffbiggrin


 Now you've got that might aswell chuck the 3xp and go for a banshee 350 engine :P who needs a powervalve!



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