yes all will work, ull have to drill the opening out for the starter motor on the older cases, the castings there just not the holes for the motor and the bolt holes either side
if u dont plan on rebuilding it for a while while its open id do the lot for the sake fo an extra 100 squid....good 20-000 miles then if its looked after hassle free
Is that it? 20K miles? They're good for more than that. My old DT had 30k miles of being absolutely battered all its life (Until I had it) until the bearings gave up
You can just make a bottom gasket. The only essential gasket that MUST be genuine is the head. I cannot stress this enough. The head MUST be genuine and for the sake of £13 just do it.
NORFE, mind telling me what's needed to replace the lot? crank bearings, but what else?
Never done one before so don't know what'll need replaceing. (Don't worry am not daft i won't **** it up lol)
Abit off topic but, Can the top end cylinder base gasket be reused? (Only just done topend to have to rip it to pieces again to do bottom end)
Sorry for all the questions just abit new to bike engines.
Cheers.
basic rebuild on bottom end is
con rod kit/big end/little end
main bearings
crank seals
gaskets
clutch/gbox bearings if worn
output shaft bearing/seal if worn
clutch plates if worn
waterpump seal do it any way while its in bits
top end
piston kit/bore
the base gasket can be re used aslong as it dont rip!
just put a thin smear (thin) of instant gasket on each side of the gasket, make sure all surfaces are clean/dry /oil free
u dont have tio remove the cyl head when stripping the motor so no need to disturb the head gasket
while the barrels off put it carefully in a vice and check all the head studs for torq spec, as this is the main cause of head gasket failure
when some 1 rebuilds the top end they just nip the nuts up with a spnner and leave it
some people over tighten the head nuts which over time due to heat and cool cycles the studs start lifting out of the barrel
giving chronic head gasket failure and eventually it pulls the studs out
the gasket is of a special design where it needs to be fastened down at the required torqe settings specified in the manual
once its been run and cooled parts settle down and bed in often leading them to loosen, eg on the head if the front nuts work loose due to the extra heat of the exhaust side more heat and contraction the combustion pressure blows out of the path with least resistance (blown gasket)
all in all its not a big job just little things are a must, take ur time and follow the wank manual lol
