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Post Info TOPIC: Need abit of clarification...


DTR Respected Member

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Need abit of clarification...
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-- Edited by WoZz on Friday 12th of July 2013 01:41:44 PM

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Yep.

There's even a space for you to mount the starter motor too.

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I think anyway. I know you can swap most bits.

Wait for some more clarification.

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just change the numbers, and yes electric starts fit



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:D

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DTR Trusted Engine Builder

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just change the logbook... send paperwork off say it was damaged so you replaced the engine with a diff 1

then they send u another log book back adjusted simples



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Yep it will.

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DTR Trusted Engine Builder

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yes all will work, ull have to drill the opening out for the starter motor on the older cases, the castings there just not the holes for the motor and the bolt holes either sidesmile



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DTR Trusted Engine Builder

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no probs . have fun, take ur time...do it right 1st time lolsmile



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DTR Trusted Engine Builder

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if u dont plan on rebuilding it for a while while its open id do the lot for the sake fo an extra 100 squid....good 20-000 miles then if its looked after hassle free



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Is that it? 20K miles? They're good for more than that. My old DT had 30k miles of being absolutely battered all its life (Until I had it) until the bearings gave up

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DTR Trusted Engine Builder

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that was just a rough gestimate top ends normally need rebuilding 1st any way depends how well there run



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Yeah but top ends on two strokes are just maintenance.

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You can just make a bottom gasket. The only essential gasket that MUST be genuine is the head. I cannot stress this enough. The head MUST be genuine and for the sake of £13 just do it.

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WoZz wrote:

NORFE, mind telling me what's needed to replace the lot? crank bearings, but what else?

Never done one before so don't know what'll need replaceing.
(Don't worry am not daft i won't **** it up lol)

Abit off topic but, Can the top end cylinder base gasket be reused?
(Only just done topend to have to rip it to pieces again to do bottom end)

Sorry for all the questions just abit new to bike engines.

Cheers.


 basic rebuild on bottom end is

con rod kit/big end/little end

main bearings

crank seals

gaskets

clutch/gbox  bearings if worn

output shaft bearing/seal if worn

clutch plates if worn

waterpump seal do it any way while its in bits

 

top end 

piston kit/bore

the base gasket can be re used aslong as it dont rip!

just put a thin smear (thin) of instant gasket on each side of the gasket, make sure all surfaces are clean/dry /oil free

 u dont have tio remove the cyl head when stripping the motor so no need to disturb the head gasket

while the barrels off put it carefully in a vice and check all the head studs for torq spec, as this is the main cause of head gasket failure

when some 1 rebuilds the top end they just nip the nuts up with a spnner and leave it

some people over tighten the head nuts which over time due to heat and cool cycles the studs start lifting out of the barrel

giving chronic head gasket failure and eventually it pulls the studs out

the gasket is of a special design where it needs to be fastened down at the required torqe settings specified in the manual

once its been run and cooled parts settle down and bed in often leading them to loosen, eg on the head if the front nuts work loose due to the extra heat of the exhaust side more heat and contraction the combustion pressure blows out of the path with least resistance (blown gasket)

all in all its not a big job just little things are a must, take ur time and follow the wank manual lol 



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Been thinking of buying one of these for a bit now, you just made my mind up, ta Wozz.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Duty-Nut-Splitter-Removes-Rusted-Stubborn-Nuts-Fits-7-16-to-3-4-Nuts-/261100588913?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3ccacecf71

reckon I'll check how much thread files are too.

 



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DTR Trusted Engine Builder

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there int am afraid, set for £40 odd quid pjme

or

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Crank-bearings-and-Seals-set-Kit-Yamaha-DTR125-88-08-/200658622301?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2eb82f975d

u need to get hold of a genuine right seal tho as iv had em from all the online cheaper retailers and never been sent the correct 1



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