DT125R ARCHIVE

Reef · Guru

RE: CARB PROBLEM, BIGGER PROBLEMS :/ HELPPP

Calum122 · Guru

Yeah should be alright.

You've set it up all right so this is just a precaution.

Reef · Guru

Lol, looking from this the only but I could see was in the second diagram which is on the cable so I loosened that and adjusted the long thing after it slightly but it can't be it as the too notches didn't move at all, so what have I messed up now lol, how should I put it back to how it's meant to be and obviously the thing I need to know where is the locknut to adjust the allognment, from the first diagram in the pic above the locknut looks like it is the metal circle thing at the end of the cable with one of the notches on it but I didn't touch that as it doesn't look like a nut at all, lol both labeled number 1 so that's why I did the one half way up the cable?? Help lol... Sorry lads ;)

Calum122 · Guru

That diagram pretty much says it all. There's two adjustable screws. I tighten the cable driving the pump on idle to. Just twist the pump with your hand. Should be able to figure it out.

Reef · Guru

Lol, two adjustable screws?? Can't work this one out, so what was I adjusting then (thing labeled 1 in diagram 2 of the picture above), I would of thought adjusting that would tighten the cable and the two notches align but it didn't??

Your gonna have to write instructions which idiot can understand lol, cus I'm baffled, pump etc... Don't know what I'm looking for...service manual instructions arnt very helpful in my opinion as well

Appreciate if you could lol, know you've helped out enough but don't want to start going all heavy handed and breaking things lol

Calum122 · Guru

Keep saying screws. Those nuts sorry. Two adjustable nuts. No 1#. Just follow that and you'll figure it out. If your bike is like the on in the pic then you're fine anyway. Just means u MUST blip the throttle when engine braking.

Shouldn't really engine brake on two strokes anyway

Reef · Guru

Well number 1 on the diagram is the nut which is halfway up the cable, I.e this:

Ive un loosened that, tried adjusting the long thing after it (possibly the second nut .... I don't know), even alligned the two notches by moving the black 4fl circle thing round and then tightened the nut further up the cable as mentioned above, but no it goes back to where it was lol, not gonna figure it out at this rate lol

Know the cable should tighten so that the notches align but I've tried all j can think of, such as easy task it looks like but I can't work it out and the notches are way out

Its Frustrating me now lol

Calum122 · Guru

The big nut tightens or slackens the cable. Use the second nut to lock it into place. You should not the black meter move as you twist the big nut.

Calum122 · Guru

If you still can't do it I'll upload a video mate. But can't do it today. Well can. Just I'm
sleepy and cannot be arsed.

Reef · Guru

Ayyyyyy finally ;) cheers mate, god knows why I didn't notice it adjusting when I was doing that earlier, strange, got there in the end haha

Calum122 · Guru

Sweet. So the two notches line up?

Reef · Guru

Ok so how can I put it

Where the long nut needs adjusting to, its too far over the point where it should sit on the bolt just enough so that the nut can lock it... What it does from slackened is that it slowly starts to align but you get to a point where the long nut comes off the bolt when you try to tighten the locking nut, so basically here's a pic showing how far way the notches are between each other at maximum

Question is what should I do now lol??

Calum122 · Guru

I will have to have a look on my bike mate.

Worth noting. It controlled by the throttle. You can see how litle you need
to turn the throttle to get the lines to match. You want a little bit more than 0 so that you've got oil.

Reef · Guru

Cheers mate, I appreciate it

Yeah defiantly :) thanks

NORFE · DTR Trusted Engine Builder

I I REMEMBER RIGHT AM SURE YOU SET THE AUTO LUBE WITH THE THROTTLE HELD WIDE OPEN TO MATCH UP WITH THE LINES IN THE WHEEL AND HOUSING???? NOT WHEN ITS CLOSED

THE PUMP IS NEVER FULLY CLOSED THERE IS ALWAYS AN OIL FEED FOR WHEN THE ENGINES AT IDLE

ALL THIS IS FULLY EXPLAINED IN THE MANUAL smile

Reef · Guru

Really?? Seems strange that Calum hasn't said this

Here's what it says in the manual but I don't understand the last bit :

The adjusting marks a and b has to matchwhen the throttle cable free play ends

????

NORFE · DTR Trusted Engine Builder

am assuming free pley ends means when its tight open full throttle

i cant find a manual to copy the pages

Calum122 · Guru

That's just how I've set it up. Never really checked the manual. Always worked a treat for me. Bikes never missed a beat. Even after the thrashing it gets.

NORFE · DTR Trusted Engine Builder

this is how it shold be if i remember right, well its haw mine was set any way with the 2 red lines lining up at full throttle

NORFE · DTR Trusted Engine Builder

if some ones got a manual post some images of auto lube setting for future reference for people

nev.... biggrin

Calum122 · Guru

Yeahbut that said. If you have the notches lined up it'll still be spot on. Your just run it a little more rich. So long as it's not too much you'll avoid sticky rings.

Reef · Guru

Ay Calum are you able to have a look at what you did with yours, think you had the same problem as me after looking at old threads, a pic would be great to show how you bodged it so that the two notches line up

Don't know what to do now as for adjusting it to 'correct position'

NORFE · DTR Trusted Engine Builder

is that just for the re model, in the manua? older 1s are diff rnt they

Calum122 · Guru

I didn't have this problem. Someone else needed help and I was showing them how I have done it. But I'm interested Show me this thread. Cast my mind back lol

Calum122 · Guru

I've just recorded a video of my setup. I'll crop it and upload it now.

Calum122 · Guru

Hopefully this clears it up

Reef · Guru

Ay that vid helps thanks but what I need to know is how you managed to have it set up like that using the adjuster and locknut, like as mentioned before to set it like that the long adjuster won't sit on the bolt, it slips off, the maximum I can have it is shown in a pic a couple posts up from this one?? Here's the other post I was on about,
http://dt125r.activeboard.com/t49412236/oil-pump/

so I'm guessing just get it adjusted, put a cable tie after the long adjuster so that its bodged then carefully put the small nut up to it to prevent the cable tie from moving so that the adjuster doesn't move

Calum122 · Guru

You should be able to adjust it from the carb as well. Can't remember. I was trying to show him how to do it.

Yeah I think I've just Maxed it out.

Reef · Guru

Ok mate, think ill just wait and see if Harry puts up some pics of how he bodged his as I pm'd asking him if he could, otherwise ill just take it to the mechanic I know to sort out everything as he only charges a 5er an hour, neec to get it sorted but away for a week so it's all good

Reef · Guru

Haha sorry mate me again

Little update but got something else to ask if i can in a sec, went to go sort it out today and imagine the adjustor and the little nut, i gave it a little tug towards the direction of where it came from (i.e the throttle assembly) and now the notch on the dial sits past the 0

Sat there for about 10 minutes, applying the throttle in different ways and it hasnt changed back since, would you say leave it now and just keep checking it for the first couple of weeks??

Also regarding bleeding it, if you remember rightly i was in the process of doing it the other day but because of the poor adjustment at the time as for bleeding i only managed to pour down a tablespoon of oil down the cyclinder head, now that oil was never burned as i never started it up since so as for bleeding should i start the process again (tablespoon, turnover, tablespoon, allow to bleed when running) or carry on where i left off mate? Remembered you mentioned sticky rings but is this major if it was to occur?? Temporary perhaps??

Thanks