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Post Info TOPIC: CARB PROBLEM, BIGGER PROBLEMS :/ HELPPP


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RE: CARB PROBLEM, BIGGER PROBLEMS :/ HELPPP
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You only need to bleed the system if there is air in there.

You'd only get air in the system if you a) took the pipes off and reconnected them or b) ran out of oil in the bottle.

For me, just to be on the safe side I'd pop a little bit of oil down the cylinder. Cause gravity would have pulled the oil off the barrel if it's been some time. It's just so tht you have oil when you fire it up.

If its set up like mine then that's fine. I've never had any problems. I've actually had my bike stolen from me with this setup and all that was wrong with the engine was a warped head from where they've overheated it and piston slap from abuse. The bore and piston wa in excellent condition. I didn't even bother with a rebore and it's still sweet as a nut.

Sticky rings can be a problem when youve got too much oil. Now on my model of bike it had the cat on it. Apparently they up jet it to keep the engine cool. I never down sized the jets when I took the cat off. So for me it's set up perfectly.

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Thanks mate for getting back to me then, From that I didnt bother bleeding the system as like you say its not needed in my circumstances :)

yeah did what you said and poured oil down the cyclinder and fired it up, bit smokey at first, yeah sweet then, its setup near enough the same to yours so thats all good then.

ay fair enough buddy, only had a quick go on it as i had work but don't think its running perfect yet but at least we got the oil problem sorted, just seems really powerless even though its happy to go into high revs it just seems it doesn't want to go anywhere if you get me, might just be me, what im going to do tomorrow is take it for another long ride, but first using the original plug so that when i come to put the br8eix iridium plug in and have a look at it after it doesn't show a false reading as the oil which was poured down the cyclinder head should have burned away by then and that obviously will allow me to use the fresh plug for an accurate reading

Will update tomorrow

Thanks again

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Ok so I took it for a ride earlier and at first I was riding it without the snorkel, but between about 6-7k it sounded different and it was really flat and then the powerband kicked in, but even then, it sounded like it had loads of power but it seemed still that it didnt actually want to pick up that much speed, bit powerless if you ask me?? See I'm Still sure that its not running right. So I changed to the iridium br8eix plug, PUT THE SNORKEL BACK ON and did two plug chops :) , one after the other as the 1st one it took me a while to get the plug off because of my really tight gloves ;) the pictures above are pics of the plug when doing both chops, sorry for the poor quality, thats the iphone camera for ya, hates focusing when its right up to the lens as you probably know,

Appreciate if you could let me know what you think of the plug colour and what to suggest doing, even with the snorkel it still seemed really powerless but sounded like it had power if you understand what i mean

Thanks again,

Reefy ;)

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Do us a favour mate. Hit the sound record feature on your iPhone. Put it in your pocket and go up the road. I want to hear it.

Sounds like youve got too much fuel.

Would you say it runs better without the snorkel?

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Ay got work in a bit but ill try doing that next time i free to have a look at it again :)

I'd say after riding with the snorkel and without I'd say it ran better with the snorkel

what do the pics of the plug show matey?? can you tell at all from the pics

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Looks to me like it's running too lean. The white bit should be a light brown colour. Do you have your boost bottle connected and is it sealing correclty? The flat spots you talk about should be corrected by the YEIS ( the bottle connecting to the top of the inlet manifold). These flat spots usually occur around 4-5krpm but might be worth a check. Take a photo for us.

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Thanks for the help andy :D

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Thanks andy, no the boost bottle isnt connected, I thought it was probably causing problems as it never wanted to sit there, it always kept slipping out which suggested it wasnt an air seal fit and thats why i removed it and replaced it with the bodge which some people do, using a coke cap to seal it as well as grease, but im guessing this still could be allowing air into the system this way, what do you think i would need to solve that, use another rubber joint which connects from the airbox to carb in hope that its just the rubber which has stretched where the boost bottle goes??

As for the yeis bottle that is connected and as far as im aware its connected properly, if i have time tommorow before work i will post those pics as asked for you mate, thanks for your help both cal and andy :)

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I was only referring to the YEIS bottle. The bottle on the carb to airbox pipe isn't a boost bottle. I personally would put that back in place as Yamaha intended until the time comes that your bike is running properly. Then start looking at ways of de restricting. Run it with the snorkel in place and this airbox bottle on. Jet it to that first and get to know how he bike should run as standard before modifying things. Unless you do that, you'll never know if the bike is under performing due to a mechanical problem or is a restriction.

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Oh ok sorry mate, yeah that's a good shout buddy, Will do, and ill trying getting those pics for you later as well

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Haha no worries dude, cheers for your help :)

I will do when i get a sec, gotta get up early to deliver a tyre, could have sworn someone had told me that minimum tread on bikes is 1.1, supposadly its 1.6 on a bike, just searched again on internet and its coming up 1.0/1.1 hmm, do you know?? know its 1.6 on a car but ive always thought it was 1.1??

and ok ill change the main jet and lower the needle to richen the mixture and go from there as its running lean.



Edit: also mate, how likely is that crank seal to have gone or do you think my problem is how my carbs set up? I dont mind checking the seal if its easy to do and put back the flywheel and casing back on??



-- Edited by Reef on Friday 18th of October 2013 09:31:00 PM

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Yo, Bikes (RE) insured and should pass its MOT tomorrow but nearly a year on but still have the same big problem to resolve.... Its running **** and its running lean :/ mega pissed off but had my fingers crossed the problem would have gone away after having the carb boot changed to the old one to eliminate the possibe air leek, clearly not.

But this time on a fresh bore piston and rings so I haven't got much time to sort it...... So once again would really appreciate your advice guys in how to go about fixing it quickly and efficiently, well attempting to lol :).

Just to go over whats been happening for all that don't know, bikes been off the road for quite some time now until today... erm cut it short engine wise the only things have changed really is that its had a rebore, new piston and rings, head and cylinder gasket has been changed with genuine, older carb boot, hytech reeds, and a new spark cap as it wasn't sparking properly but seems to be sparking fine now oh and I'm running it PRE mixed, 150ml to 5 liters on mineral oil for running it in...

Anyway over the last week or so I've done a few heat cycles on the stand, the blips on the throttle were a bit boggy but i put that down to it being a fresh top end but it was only today I could actually see how it was really running when i was able to ride her obviously, to the MOT garage to get my cert.

When I rode her to the garage today I could tell she wasn't running that great, quite boggy still but I got her there as it wasn't too far and once again put it down to a fresh top end and knew this would help determine how she's actually running once cus i could check the plug. (btw haven't been ringin her neck, all low revs and kept the engine revving freely) ;)

so checked the plug and the end of the tip was white and the electrode going down was white too, so not good.

meant to be picking the bike up tomorrow but no idea what the best route to take on this one now...

Would get them to sort it but there up to there eyeballs in work and in all fairness it would be good to sort it myself if i can, cheaper and Ill learn that way.

OK, enough of me rambling on...

The facts.... the Airscrew was replaced in the past so its adjustable and I've got it set at the recommended 1 and 1/4 turns out.
The main jet is a 240 and the pilot jet is a 25. and a Full DEP. DTR carb boot so no side bottle hole to prevent air leek there too.

Where would you start if you were me knowing full well that it could seize at any minute how it is now??

Why cant things just be simple for once, lol, hopefully some of ya will be able to advise whats best in this situation.

Want to check that left seal near the flywheel as well, isnt the flywheel bolted on to the casing on the newer models?? how would i go about checking it on the newer models??

lol, cheers guys, a picture of its how looking at the mo tho for ya, still an ongoing project, but its slowly getting there thank fook ;) but I need to be back on the road, its killing me, I want her to sing again soon

Once again tho, Cheers

IMG_1896[2].JPG



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That snorkel wants to be in. If it's running rich then it needs more fuel. It really is that simple. Sorta answered your own question.

Bike looks sweet! Thats a serious long time coming. Summers gone now dude. Take the road back off the road and get the winter project going.

And the bike isn't going to seize at any minute reef mate. Thats when under serious load that you'll cause seizures. Just increase the main jet. Raise the needle and increase the power jet.

I posted a video of how to sort out the carb under carbs.

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Calum122 wrote:

That snorkel wants to be in. It really is that simple. Sorta answered your own question.

Bike looks sweet! Thats a serious long time coming. Summers gone now dude. Take the road back off the road and get the winter project going.

And the bike isn't going to seize at any minute reef mate. Thats when under serious load that you'll cause seizures. Just increase the main jet. Raise the needle and increase the power jet.

I posted a video of how to sort out the carb under carbs.


  "If it's running rich then it needs more fuel".... You mean if its running lean it need more fuel ;)

naa dying to be back on the road but like i said still an ongoing project :)

Its getting there dude tho, still got few more bits to put on and bits to change, still waiting on my custom yamaha graphics too, there taking ages old d and d, dont worry aint losing the yamaha design, just having it slightly altered so that the graphics on each side cover carry on all the way to the rear of the fender, here attached another pic, show what i mean. Bike picture 1.8.13.jpg

 

So increasing the main jet ill get more fuel, but you say to raise the needle, raising the needle would lean the mixture wouldnt it or is that to compensate for going a bigger main jet cal?

and the power jet?? dont have them on the standard generic dt carbs do we? or do you mean pilot??

 

 



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Yeah been at work all day i'm friggin tired. I was thinking yeah running rich on air lmao!

Yeah the 28mm mikuni carb does have power jet. Read up about power jets. It'll explain a lot. I'm having the exact problem mate. Just done rebuild and its running rich. 280 main jet with snorkel. Needle moved up. Bit rich needs 270 maybe 260.

Just experiment. You won't seize it if the load is for short period of time.

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Im calling em up in the morning, just checked .gov site and its 1.0, think there just trying a get more work this MOT garage.. cheeky fookers lol

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Its 1.1mm.

Crank seals will cause high idling due to air leak. So doubtful but possible. Make sure that carb boot is fitted properly. Best thing you can do is buy a pot of lithium grease. Grease all the rubber joinings ensuring they are properly sealed. The grease aids in the sealing.

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You need to plug chop it before i can tell you what i think.

And if that is a plug chop then it looks alright to me. Bit too much oil if anything. 



-- Edited by Calum122 on Saturday 19th of October 2013 12:06:29 PM

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Thought so, called em up this morning sayin the blokes wrong and its passed its MOT, one advisory, rear is on its way out which I know already and will change over to a spare soon :)

but anyway ok mate thats good to know cheers, and yeah iv'e got some of that lithium grease so ill grease it all once ive sprayed everything with WD see if i can find an air leek beforehand :)

No where has any jets locally and as it was lashing it down didnt fancy changing the needle and that so road a lil short distance back home so that i can work on it under cover..

Removed the plug and this is how it looked pretty much straight after the ride, whats your opinions on it??

Gold looking surface on the rim of the plug

Build up of black oil at the back of the electrode if you can see, iphone doesnt want to focus that well but you should see what i mean

And the tip going down to the end of the electrode is grey looking. looks greyer in person

Opinions?? im going to raise the needle in a sec and check that everything's sealing apart from that crank seal now :)

IMG_1906.JPGIMG_1907.JPGIMG_1908.JPGIMG_1909.JPG

 



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Energized wrote:

Glad to finally see you have her back and ready for action man! Been such a long time, been felling for you! She looks fresh man, same frame as me now eh? ;) if you had gone two tone red/black wheels mannnnn that would be sexy as ****, i'm thinking of doing that, or white and red, opinions? x


 I know mate, it's been fooking long, can't believe how longs it taken but hay ho its getting there now.. Its been killing me not being on the road with her but should have her ran in soon touch wood mush, like I said still an ongoing project, (will always be an ongoing project as long as if I can get her running right soon lol) indeed mate, looks a lot better in person... hmmm I dunno don't really feel two tone rims, need to fit my rim tape tho on mine tho ;)

so you probaBly know what opinion mine would be ;) but each to there own and all that :)

and cal its not "standard" tho, pre mixed at the mo to a 33/1 ratio I believe (deffo 150ml per 5 liters)it's got a full dep, hytrch reeds,, no snorkel  deresticted and one of those hi flow air filters?? Lol...



-- Edited by Reef on Saturday 19th of October 2013 08:59:36 PM



-- Edited by Reef on Saturday 19th of October 2013 09:10:52 PM

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Aw wow that must need a shed load of juice to get that running sweet :/

That was sarcasm Reef. Those things are not strenuous modifications that require massive jet mods.

If i were you i would put that snorkel back in. Then look to do a plug chop. I agree with you 100% hough. Don't do it until you've run it in. 



-- Edited by Calum122 on Saturday 19th of October 2013 09:22:57 PM

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Oh dear cal oh dear ;) I know there not massive mods but its still not standard ;)

Snorkel will go back in tomorrow, ill raise the needle too hopefully and check all the seals (but not crank seal until i know how easy it is to get to and put back together) but as for a plug chop, like i said dude, "I shoudnt really do a plug chop on fresh bore and that, that would mean going into high revs and going flat out lol which wouldn't do it any good surely lol???



-- Edited by Reef on Saturday 19th of October 2013 09:33:56 PM

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I shoudnt really do a plug chop on fresh bore and that, that would mean going into high revs and going flat out lol which wouldn't do it any good surely lol

Had work so going to play with it more for a lil but in a sec, didn't manage to change where the needle sits, should be easier now I know how to properly do it thanks to Dave ;)

Probably will see how it runs like that and upjet the pilot if needs be as it's the pilot which affects up to 1/8 of the throttle is it, thinks its up to 1 8th of the throttle anyway then go from there again

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Glad to finally see you have her back and ready for action man! Been such a long time, been felling for you! She looks fresh man, same frame as me now eh? ;) if you had gone two tone red/black wheels mannnnn that would be sexy as ****, i'm thinking of doing that, or white and red, opinions? x



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Like this dudes husky?

 



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Put it this way reef mate. If the bike is standard then it wants a 210 main jet in there and that should be fine. If it's running lean then you have yourself a problem somewhere.

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What a knob

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Firstly high flow air filters are just as free flowing as standard. 240 main jet is standard on pre dtre's. DEP THEMSELVES say no need to up jet when changing the pipe. Derestricting it is making it standard. Removing the snorkel and maybe hy tech reeds are about as not standard as it gets.

So yes like i said. No need to mess with the carb. Are you forgetting i have the same bike. The same upgrades and yet my bike was sweet. So i'm more interested in what could possibly be wrong. Trying to help.

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I know your trying a help dude lol and its good having some advice mush :)

What size was/is your pilot jet with these upgrades dude btw?? plus know what it is or anyone else know what the dtrs use?? Mines a 25 in there, know standard is a 17.5 on the newer models??

Cheers

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Literally i ran the exact same bar the snorkel in. The plug was a lovely brown colour. 240 main jet. Everything else standard.

Now i've got a 4dl tzr125r barrel. 280 main jet. Raised the needle. Still not running quite right. Too rich atm.

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