The reason they'd charge that much is the time it takes to get the forks off the bike then do it. Of you get the forks off first then give them for him to do it should be a lot cheaper. Failure to that. DIY!
What my USD's? Yeah they're nice. Took a nice bit of machining to get those to fit.
Personally I wouldn't. It won't be long until it deteriates into something dangerous. Best to just get it sorted. You could save money if you buy the seals yourself, take the forks off and take them to the garage. Do most the work yourself and that should save you £$£
Recon these would be alright? they look better than original dt ones they look crap imo http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FACTORY-IMAGE-50MM-NEOPRENE-FORK-SEAL-SAVER-SOCK-GAITER-PROTECTORS-KTM-SX-/221131847491?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item337c7c3743
forks are surprisingly easy and you really don't need any specialist tools, wouldnt be paying someone else £40 to do them, for that price just do it yourself!
I'd reccomend having a go. Taking the forks off isnt hard. I replaced my seals for the first time this summer so heres some advice.
-A paddock stand/ lift stand that costs around 30 quid on ebay is very useful. The weight of the back wil mean it will rest on the back wheel once the forks are removed.
-Go to halfords or somewhere and buy a hex key that connects to your socket set to enable you to leg the pressure needed to undo the bolts in the bottom of the fork legs. i think it was 10mm but check.
- You will need some kind of wooden dowel to push inside the fork leg to hold the inner still whilst you undo these bolts on the bottom of the fork legs as mentioned above.
- Be careful of the top bolts on the stanchions ( big ones) they are soft metal.
- I had issues where once replace all the seals etc, the stanchion would get stuck when pushed all the way down. I think the bushes at the bottom that you pry apart with a screw driver were worn or got pried too much. take care or buy replacements before you start. page 102 haynes manual, middle right photo.
- Unless you plan on doing it all in one go, make sure you box and label either side seperatly. Best advice is to do one leg at a time.
-Driving the seals into place can be tricky. If you have the time to prepare (i didnt), read the haynes manual and it will tell you to get something that slide just over the stanchion that you can use to drive the seals into place.
If i remember anything else i'll update. It's rewarding once you're done!
-- Edited by AndyYam on Tuesday 4th of December 2012 07:14:40 PM
When we did them to my mates dt outher week we justripped old ones out slid them down and pushed them into place with some 40mm wast pipe tubeing about a foot long ans a slid down one side ll then topped up with oil
YOUR FORKS WILL NOT COLLAPSE ,IT IS IMPOSSIBLE .and if it's just a light misting it will even pass mot,but if it gets bad it can leak on the front brake ,you would notice it way worse before even one drip got to the brakes,just keep an eye on it untill u can get it done ,I've seen them go for months with just a light misting before they realy started to leak, wipe it off then put the front wheel against a wall apply the brakes and give them a real hard push down let us know how much oil is coming out or put a photo up
noticed my right hand fork leaking a little at top.. is there a quick way to replace the oil seal and dust seal??? i cant remember but i'm sure someone posted that the forks dont need to be removed?
can anyone point to a cheap place for the seals please? is it worth doing both sides together? thanks
It would be a hellish job with them on the bike lol wouldnt be worth it keeping them on. Just get yourself two new oil seals and dust seals and do them both. If you follow the video in this thread you cant go wrong. Any problems feel free to PM me.
Wemoto is where to get them. They are very well priced pattern parts and they fitted perfectly. Forgot to tell you to buy oil to, I got 15w cause I like the forks a bit stiffer.