Personally I wouldn't mod the PV since that is irreversible. Personally I would have that barrel resleeved it isnt going to be cheap but it's better in the long run.
That's besides the point. The bike WILL run better with the vale working. Why would you purposlly restrict the bike lmao. Not only that you'll cause more bottom end strain without the valve causing Premature wear to the engine ultimately costing you more money.
Personally I wouldn't mod the PV since that is irreversible. Personally I would have that barrel resleeved it isnt going to be cheap but it's better in the long run.
ha ha whats this fettish of urs cal with re-sleeving or replating lol
the manufacture offers a decent selection of os pistons and a thick std liner on most 2 smokers for the reason that it is a general routine maintenance to rebore and go over size on cylinders
a 1.5mm bore oversize runs just as good as a std bore if run proply and looked after
the engine will run better if the valve is working, with the valve pegged open or shut it wont wear any different if the engine is warmed up proply than it does with the valve working
all 2 stroke ports need a good chamfer on them to stop any ring snag no matter if its a 20 cc hedge trimmer or a cr 500
how much for a re sleeve? ,and i dont really care about the valve its more hassle than its worth ive taken the servo off and pegged it shut
more hassle than its worth, its there for a reason to do a job its simple 2 stroke mechanics
if u r gunna pin it shut u deffinatly need to make sure its clearing the bore or ull wreck things even more mate
if you read a manual on an engine it describes how each function works, it tells you the pv runs in close proximaty to the piston, so simple thinking would tell u "oh iv had a bigger bore put in the cylinder so that would mean the pv will need attention, am sure it says some where in the manual about after boring sort of check list, may be wrong, simple common sense would tell u the answer tho lol
everytime ive tried to set it up though ive fainled :( i dont get why 1 goes to 2 and 2 goes to 1 it means twisting the cables which makes no sense at all
dug my servo out and will be looking at getting this oprational again,however im still not seeing the benefits of doing it as it seems most people are pegging theres open to so there has to be a reason for having it pegged open? otherwise no one would do it and i have found the original reason it didnt f ****ing work it was because my haynes manual says to cross the wires but this is shutting the the valve not opening it lol!
Wtf mate. It's very simple. Even full blown mxers have PV.
Trust me it gives power to the bottom end. A very easy way to see what the difference is is to close the valve and ride the bike. You'll notice you get lots of bottom end torque but wont rev very high. Opening it gives the reverse effect. Having an operating PV gives both the benefits without the draw backs.
That's because you obviously haven't set it up properly. Hardly mind boggling.
It's so easy to check. It should be slightly open at low rpm. Then at high rpm it should be open fully which is what you have pinned at the moment. So If after 8k the PV is fully open how can it be slower than at 8k with it pinned open. It's one and the same thing no?
The way to set it up correctly is to take off the PV cover. There's a prong sticking out of the end of the valve. This should line up with zero parralax to the little hole in the cylinder. That's how you know it's set up correctly.
The cables should not be crossed over. Its easy to set it up I will try to explain in an easy way.
Take the cover off the pulley wheel housing so you can see the wheel moving when u turn the ignition on without the engine running.
On the pulley wheel in-between the cables is a notched piece, when u turn the ignition on and the powervalve goes through its cycle the notch should line up with the hole behind it when it finishes the cycle. If it doesn't loosen the lock nut on the right hand cable and turn it anti clockwise till the pulley wheel comes to rest in line with the hole when you turn the ignition on again. Both cables should have a slight bit of slack in them when its all set up as-well.
Also the end of the powervalve were the pulley wheel bolts to it has a dot stamped on it, this dot should be at the top.
common sense says that if you rebore anything that has a hole with a chamfer round the edge that you are going to take away from the chamfer and it will need redoing regardless of how or what you use .