DT125R ARCHIVE

Usually at this time of year bikes are being made ready to get on the road, in preparation for the better weather, and generally a fair few bikes have their MOT's due around about now.

Here are some checks to make on your bike before you take to the MOT tester, listed below are the things testers look for.

M.O.T TESTING
 

FORKS
Testers are looking for blown seals and pogoing.
Fork seals can be changed, but if the stanchions are pitted it will just damage the new ones. They can be re chromed, or replacements are about £80 each (not genuine). If the forks are pogoing then check the level and quality of the oil.
 
BRAKES
Testers are looking for fluid leaks, hose wear and pad and disc condition. Check them by pulling hard on the lever. If it comes back to the bar then it will fail. If the discs are excessivly scored or worn below the recomended thickness you will fail. Before the test, give the calipers a strip and clean, if the pads are below the minimum wear indicator (the groove in the middle) then change them. Make sure you chamfer the edges of the new pads to stop them squeaking.
 
HEADBEARINGS
 The testers will be looking for overtight or loose bearings. Check them by lifting the front wheel clear of the floor and trying to move the front wheel forwards and back. Also, turn the steering to check for tight spots and notchyness. If they are loose then tighten them a bit with a C spanner on the notchy collar under the top yoke. If they are too tight then do the opposite. If they are still dodgey then they will need to be replaced, which is a fairly difficult job. I would advise that this job is best left to the professionals.
 
WHEEL BEARINGS
 Got any side to side play in either of your wheels? Well if you have then no certificate, because that is what the testers are looking for. Lift the wheels clear of the floor and give them a wiggle.

TYRES
 With tyres, testers are looking for some tread (at least 1mm in the center) and no bulges or cracks. If they touch part of the bike then thats a fail too. 
 
WHEELS
 Testers are looking for less than 3mm of run out and any cracks. As a rule cast wheels have to be replaced, though some cracks can be repaired.
 
REAR SHOCK
 If you have got a case of shock rot (corrosion, leaks, no damping) then dont even bother going to the testers. You will probably need to replace the shock.
 
HORN
 You need a good strong horn (!). The sound needs to steady and loud. If it is buggered check the switch, wiring and horn itself. Replacements cost about £10.
 
EXHAUST
 Posh race system? Race can? You will have to put the boring crap old one back on I'm afraid. The rules say that a can must be marked with the manufacturers stamp, or be BS certified. If it says 'Not For Road Use' then it will fail.
 
SWINGARM
 Side to side play and wheel alignment are what are being looked at here. Bearings are easy enough to replace, just like wheel ones. Align in the usual way.
 
BARS
 Must not crush thumbs and must be done up nice and tight. If the lock stops are damaged then you can get them welded or file a bit off the back of the handle bar. 
 
LIGHTS
 They are checked so you can't get away with that cheap European one that you bought when you crashed. Most testers will sort out any little problems like the beam being out of alignment. Indicators must flash an orange colour and you must have at least 1 working brake light switch. If something isn't working then check the bulb first, then the switch.
 
CHAINS & SPROCKETS
 Make sure that your chain is correctly tensioned and well lubed. Replace if the chain is badly stretched or the sprockets are hooked.