Yeah cheers mate, gave my mountain of unorgonized tools on my garage floor a tidy up and back in there boxes ect. got all my parts laid out nicely made me feel better after doing all that you know how it gets lol!
Going to have a break now and when I come back I will get her started and go On a WD40 rampage and god willing cancel the thought of splitting the engine again.
will also get a good vid up for everyone to see what I am on about lol!!
-- Edited by slob on Sunday 24th of March 2013 05:13:04 PM
Ok Guys some of yous will be aware I am having problems with a suspected Air leak, It,s kind of driving me to dispair and I am starting to tell myself it's only a fecking bike lol, but as you know I have put alot of time, money and effort into the damn thing.
Basically when I turn the bike on it sits at 6000 rpm, Yesterday I siloconed up all the manifold boost bottle ect so I can rule that out now cause I sprayed WD40 on the area and the revs did not increase one bit, During the week I managed to get the bike to Idle and as soon as I hit the throttle it went reving again,
I sprayed WD40 behind the fly wheel and the revs did pick up, Great I thought it must be the seal, so I stripped it all down and I couldn't see anything wrong with the seal, I gave it a good grease up and started it up, still doing the usial 6k, To make matters worse I broke my woodruff key cause no one was around to hold the fly wheel while I thigtened the nut up tight enough, luckily only the key was damaged and not the crank and the fly wheel, Thas what happens when you get to this stage you just start causing damage cause of the desperation already need to get my fuel tank redone after it fell on the floor
So thats me feked for the time being till I get a a wood ruff key and and a genuine seal to try. I am moving house this week so that doesnt really matter as I won't be working on the thing anyway till I am settled in the new place my plan was to have the thing finished by now.
Was going to get a vid up but can't with out the woodruff key, Its starting to make me think the leak could be coming from the case halfs some how and I am going to have to strip the whole thing down again, but would the revs inrease by spraying behind the fly wheel I am not to sure about that? basically the seal is my last chance to fix it before I fix it Nathlad style.
Dont worry about damaging a brand new engine fir idling at 6k. Trust me it wont damage it. There is NO LOAD on the engine. No strain. Therefore no hardship. If you were riding it i would say otherwise.
A break from working on it will sort you out anyway.
Amen to that lol, I am one man DT wrecking crew at the moment,
If I don't find the leak next time
Been thinking, I am just going to pull the motor out and split it again, I wont have the ball ache of all the bearings ect cause I will keep the crank installed and just lift the right hand side of when it is up on my blocks.
I will clean the old sealent of and put a new bead round the thing A fecking good one at that even though I am Possitive I done that the last time lol!
It shouldn't even take long with a bit of graft as it is always easier the second time that's for sure could have it done in one night, Will replace with genuine gaskets also as Tom has recomended I do.
its such a ball ache lol i would still lay bets on the base gasket the chinky ones are shocking compared with genuine ,did you put the cases in the oven? if so is it possible they have warped? .its unlikely but another thing to eliminate .
Athena gaskets dont know of they are chink. The cases were baked when they were coated and the bearings were pressed in, the cases arent warped cause I sanded them on plate glass and they mated together perfectly,
My theory is that I had a hell of a time freeing up the crank by knocking it with my rubber mallet, in my haste I think I should have let the sealent set for hours before using any force, I only left it for 30 mins so I think it might be coming back to haunt me, again it is just a theory
Apart from the base gasket that can be the only reason.
I know sorry lol, cause you had the same problem, Norfe recommended to allow the sealent to dry before going knocking with the hammer, next time I will be leaving it 24 hours as I say it is just another theory there could be nothing to do with there, When I go back to the bike next week I will have one last check and fiddle, then it's coming back out, at leas I know the job now and there is'n seized **** at every part of the job lol!
italian or not, ive found that YAMAHA are thicker and alot cleaner cut with less error on them than both the chinese and the athena ones, which is why id only use yamaha genuine gaskets on things like head gasket, crankcase cover, reedblock and cylinder base gasket
yeah they might work for other people, but ive had some leak on me, they were installed correctly, yet the chinese ones have still leaked, this is just my experience, the chinese ones may work perfect for you
but yamaha is the only way ill go for peace of mind, theres no point skimping on cheap gaskets for a couple of quid
Ok guys I have had a good break from the DT and I feel my mind is alot fresher and I am settled in my new house, which unfortunately do not have any garage/shed facilities at the moment but my old house is only a mile away or so. with the weather improving I want the bike running.
Think I have had a good thought to. When I stripped the carb down I couldnt get one of the screws out that held the needle jet or pilot jet not quite sure. I threw it in the ultrasonic anyway and I think dirt has clogged something causing my problems. Done a bit of reading on other forums and I reckon this is plausible. Focussing all my effort on the carb before I go pulling the engine out. Need to get a new throttle needle though as I bent mine.
