you will get what someone is willing to pay it will cost around 700 to get a set made up and for a xt wear theres not many sm wheels about someone will pay it sooner or later bang em on ebay 300 buy now they will sell
Ive whacked them on for 275 buy it now. End of the day I only pay a little more than that for them and have no use for them. I have 3 sets of wheels including these, my DTX set and some chinese ****ty set so.
Their 4.5j at the rear and 3.5j at the front, they have a cush drive for the rear sprocket and thats why I couldn't use them without some fabrication. The rear sits offset due to being more material on the cush/sprocket side. So either you need to shave some material off the cush drive housing, or the hub. Something I didn't wanna have to do and paid for DTX wheels instead. Someone with access to such machinery to do this could do it in 5 minutes so it's better they go to someone else. Sucks really 'cos of how wide they are they did look proper badass!
Their 4.5j at the rear and 3.5j at the front, they have a cush drive for the rear sprocket and thats why I couldn't use them without some fabrication. The rear sits offset due to being more material on the cush/sprocket side. So either you need to shave some material off the cush drive housing, or the hub. Something I didn't wanna have to do and paid for DTX wheels instead. Someone with access to such machinery to do this could do it in 5 minutes so it's better they go to someone else. Sucks really 'cos of how wide they are they did look proper badass!
Yeah mate. Thats was a route that my rs wheels would have had to gone. They got cush drives. And the hub may have been too wide. Luckerly its worked out apright. Ive just spaced the rear sprockef so its inline.
Yeah, it's a right pain unless you know what you're doing. Something I don't know unfortunately. The rear wheel when the sprocket is inline with the engine is so off it's unreal. Pain in the ass really and my engineer guy is really old and bait off now so I don't want to present him with this only for him to **** it up or something
Yeah, it's a right pain unless you know what you're doing. Something I don't know unfortunately. The rear wheel when the sprocket is inline with the engine is so off it's unreal. Pain in the ass really and my engineer guy is really old and bait off now so I don't want to present him with this only for him to **** it up or something
Nah its easy mate. You start off by getting the front a rear wheel inline. Thats the important bit. If they're not inline then it will handle like a pig!
You then work out how much the front a rear sprocket are out by. And then machine back the sprockey carrier untill they are inline. If its more than a safe amount off the sprocket carrier then you'll want to have the rear wheel machined back a little then see how it fots with the sprocket carrieR.
You never know mate. If you didnt line the front and rear wheel up properly then you wont know how much the rear wheel needs adjusting. You might get away with a few washers behind the sprocket to push it out a little.
Remember. If the front wheel isnt perfectly straight then you wont get a accurate reading.
Its easy to do mate. Best done with two people but can be done on your own.
You run a straight edge from the sides of the rear wheel to the front wheel. Then measure the distance between the straigh. Edge and the wheel. Do that on both sides and make a mental note. Adjust the rear wheel until the two distances are equal. Then you know they are inline.
To see of the front wheel is pointing straight ia easy. Run the same straight edge to the front wheel and measure the distance beteeen the straigt edge and the front and back of the wall of the front wheel. They should equal each other. Adjust the angle of the fromt wheel until they do. Easy.
