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Post Info TOPIC: 60mph?


DTR Respected Member

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60mph?
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hi guys!

my bike only goes about 60mph indicated and wont do anything in sixth gear!
ive to my knowledge derestriced it as far as i can!
i believe is a 2002 engine and loom.

i have isolated the reed switch put an older air manifold on it and have a dep system

the pv is also pinned!
any input?

thanksss



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Guru

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Its actually better performance to have a servo working. But pin it for now to eliminate the problem.

Decoke your exhaust. Someone on here was having a similar problem. Ensure end can is straight through. No gunk in there.

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MDK


DTR Legend

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I would say the pinned pv pinning is ok for that sett off power but for the long road top speed you gota have the servo ...

ps ..again no expert so pls feel free to correct me

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de restrictions

good clean up of a old batterd  dtr  95

 



DTR Trusted Engine Builder

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a masif factor people over look is how worn the engine is, whats the milage have u tested compression?

a worn top end will no doubt cause a lack of power

what final drive ratio are u running some one may of changed the sprockets at some stage also reducing top speed

a smaller back sprocket wil;l increase top end motoring speed 2-3 teeth



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I had an identical problem, but mine would only do 40MPH and bog down in 6th and stall.

DEP silencer? Take the Phillip screws out and pull the end off, take the sound wadding and baffle / pipe thing out, put screws back in, take for a ride, any different? It'll be louder, but the speed will improve if its the exhaust needing to be repacked.

Furthermore, if the problem continues, pull the exhaust off, look up the exhaust port, get someone to flick the ignition on and off so you can see the piston condition. Check if its scored etc.

If you have a different engine to the standard one, you don't know how many hours or mileage the engine has actually done. I'd suggest full rebuild if the engine has been swapped.

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Innit



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Lol. How do you justify a full engine rebuild. Go until it pops is my advice. But before that i agree. Have a look up the exhaust port. Any sort of scoring or damage then it will need a rebore and new piston. Shouldn't cost you too much. Check the bottom end whilst its off but unless top emd engine failure has occurred then you really shouldn't need a FUL rebuild.

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Calum122 wrote:

Lol. How do you justify a full engine rebuild. Go until it pops is my advice. But before that i agree. Have a look up the exhaust port. Any sort of scoring or damage then it will need a rebore and new piston. Shouldn't cost you too much. Check the bottom end whilst its off but unless top emd engine failure has occurred then you really shouldn't need a FUL rebuild.


 The engines been swapped and its had a new loom from a later model. So perhaps it has gone bang before and they'd just rebored and put a new piston on it? You'll never know.

Could be a carbon build up on the exhaust port, definitely take the exhaust off and look.



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Innit



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BTW, if exhaust is full of carbon, check the oil pump is setup correctly. Usually carbon builds up could be due to the oil bump being setup incorrectly. Worth checking out.

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Innit



DTR Trusted Engine Builder

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with no packing in the silencer wil alter all the back pressure so it wont run right any way, should re pack the silencer every few thousand miles any way, iv used loft insulation for the past 10 years works fine and its free out the attic....makes a big difference in how the bike runs, but something big is up if its running like that, do a compression test on the engine first of all, then check all carb settings to manual spec, what gearing is on the bike has some 1 swapped the rear sprocket for a daft size as this can also make the bike labour and have daft running speeds

check reeds

clogged airfilter

fuel oil ratio

all the faultdiagnosis is in the manuals to go thru as a check list

all else fails id be having it in bits rebuilding and startin from fresh



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NORFE wrote:

with no packing in the silencer wil alter all the back pressure so it wont run right any way, should re pack the silencer every few thousand miles any way, iv used loft insulation for the past 10 years works fine and its free out the attic....makes a big difference in how the bike runs, but something big is up if its running like that, do a compression test on the engine first of all, then check all carb settings to manual spec, what gearing is on the bike has some 1 swapped the rear sprocket for a daft size as this can also make the bike labour and have daft running speeds

check reeds

clogged airfilter

fuel oil ratio

all the faultdiagnosis is in the manuals to go thru as a check list

all else fails id be having it in bits rebuilding and startin from fresh


 

Mine tops out at 50MPH. Does the rear sprocket have what size it is written on it? So I can find out? The air filter and reeds are fine. And I've just done a top end rebuild. I'm going to see about setting the oil pump up properly, hopefully that'll fix my speed problems and the carbon on the exhaust port.

 

Bikes currently in bits undergoing a clean up, getting rid of the rust and spraying it black again, and cleaning all the parts up, engine etc.



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Innit



DTR Legend

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Pretty sure the tooth amount isn't displayed on the sprocket.

Get counting the teeth on the sprocket!

You must have some pretty insane gear ratio, like 5 tooth rear and 3 tooth front LOL?!

I get 80mph out of my babe pinned WITH a renthal anodized sprocket/520 chain conversion WITH a shorter than standard gear ratio for acceleration!



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DTR Legend

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And do you want a really good tip for carbon disposal?

A pinned throttle in 6th gear with a bit of clutch slipping @ 12k rpm! wink



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DTR Respected Member

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thanks for the replys guys idk my speedos massively wrong, had the gps on on my phone clocks said top speed of 65 gps said 75
tryed it at 30 and and gps said just over 30 eh
the bores fine one of the first things i checked and should be on any 2t tbh!


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Love 2 strokes me!
its not about bhp

its about power delivery!

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