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Post Info TOPIC: Over tightened drain plug


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Over tightened drain plug
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I can't see reason why you would need to drop the engine out of the bike?  If you can get the bolt out put a helicoil in, if not replace the clutch cover. Both options are pretty straight forward and easy even for a novice.



-- Edited by fused420 on Monday 10th of June 2013 10:17:16 AM

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I'll have a look into the damage first and report back, cheers chaps.



-- Edited by kebabby on Monday 10th of June 2013 11:55:23 AM

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I'm pretty sure its not screwed into the crank case. When the thread on mine went, I just took the bolt out, put the helicoil in (with a bit of thread lock), put the bolt back in and job done. Not another drop of oil has been spilt yet, and I have changed the oil again since then.

Try and get the bolt out and let us know kebabby



-- Edited by fused420 on Monday 10th of June 2013 11:02:28 AM

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Guys,

 

Changed my oil yesterday, set the torque to 11 lb ft to refit the drain plug and the bolt just went loose whilst tightening before the torque setting clicked in. Now I've got an oil leak. I've used the torque wrench many times before (it's a works one and regularly calibrated) so I think maybe the recommended torque settings are too high in the Haynes?

 

Any suggestions?

 

John



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11lbft isn't really that high, especially considering the size of the bolt. It's more likely a previous owner may have stretched the thread to the limit, meaning it would only be a matter of time before the thread went all together.

You could either replace the whole clutch cover, or try a helicoil kit

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Let me guess. You used the standard bolt that came out of it?

BIG MISTAKE. Honestly i could seriously punch Mr Yamaha for using such cheap tat!

Happened to me a few years ago. Still mothafuking leaking!

Quick fix mate. Tap the crankcase and put a screw in there. Will stop the majority of the leak and will only leak once the engines reached temperature.

Proper fix you're going to want to drop the engine out of the frame. Dismantle the clutch. And drill out the exisiting bolt. Or if you're lucky it might just screw out with the engine sti ll in the frame.

If not. Drop the engine and drill the old bolt out. Tap a new thread in there. Use a helicoil to put it back to standard thread size. Then use a stainless steel bolt to tightening it up with!

Or do what I did and just leak oil everywhere.

Take the crank case off. Smear gasket paste all around the faces. Make up a new paper gasket and reassemble. Now it should go gasket paste, gasket paper, gasket paste.

Will still leak but only a tiny amou t.

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Bollocking ball bags.... the missus will murder me if I leave it leaking in the garage. Its actually leaking quite a bit, I only did it last night and there was a pool on the floor this morning.

Yes, I just used the old bolt. I think it might be a visit from the mechanic to get it sorted properly, if I start dropping the engine out it will still be in bits 5 years later.

Cheers for the advice guys. I'll try screwing it out in whilst still in the frame first.

Do you know what size bolt it is off hand? Also, what size helicoil, I've never even heard of these before.

Please assume you are talking to the brain dead.

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I believe its m8 mate. Yeah its a real pain. Don't worry though. I did exactly the same to my bike!

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Although its fairly easy it is also slightly specialist. My adivce if you're u sure and happy to let someone else do it then just do it. For peace of mind sake. Last thing you want is for the helicoil to come out and ruin the engine.

It will probably want the engine out so try and at least save yourself £30 and drop the engine out your self. Fairly easy job mate it really isn't 'all that'

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The bolt isn't threaded into the clutch cover mate. Its threaded into the crank case. In order to reach the bolt safely you will need to dismantle the clutch and various other components.

Trust me i've done exactly the same thing. And its too fiddly to do crouched down. One slip and you'll go through the crank case and into the bottom end. Or you'll go through the bottom of the crank case and will need to weld it back up.

If it were easy to get to i'd say do it yourself. But its not. Its really fiddly. Does depend on where it has snapped though.

Mine snapped inside the thread. So extracting it proved futile. However if there is lots of bolt sticking out then it'll be extremely easy to remove since the bolt is always soaked in oil.

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It's screwed into the crankcase on A dt125re and i assume x. And since the engines are identical bar the kicker the dtr too. And i don't know what it is but mine just won't stop leaking. I think maybe perhaps i've gone through the bottom in that case. Nitch gut.

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Okay, managed to get a look at it today. The bolt has come out easily but it has snapped, theres about 3 threads left on the bolt and the other bit is still inside. Just done a measurement on the bolt and it must screw into the crank case.

So, how easy is it to dismantle the clutch and other components?

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MDK


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hate it when this happens its a real pain ....

in the old days of scrimping or for feild bikes if this happend I have in some cases sealed up the hole with chemical metal or a rubber bung or cork just to get it back on the road lol and they seem to do the trick and soon unblocked when a oil change was needed .

but as the guys say maybe best to get it sorted properly

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good clean up of a old batterd  dtr  95

 



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Have you tried removing the clutch cover?

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Not yet, just looking into what it entails before I start dismantling it.

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MDK


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removeing the clutch cove ris not realy dismantling it lol its only a engine caseing/cover and no matter what chances are its gona need to come off and if your a scrimper like me take care removeing with the gasket and you may get away with reuseing it .

wip that cover off and get us a pic of what you can see bolt wise

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good clean up of a old batterd  dtr  95

 

MDK


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fact is you dont have the right parts now and the bike can not be used and even when you get the parts the covers gona need to come off and also takeing the cover of now you can see what parts you may need ...

   kinda like saying im not takeing the head of untill I buy the new piston  only to find once the piston as arrived you didnt need it lol


kinda same type topic here http://dt125r.activeboard.com/t49625442/stupid-question-time-transmission-oil-drain-plug/

 

http://www.yamahascooterspares.co.uk/spares/epc2.asp?modelID=9028&PageiD=10&m=YAMAHA+DT125RE+++2005+CRANKCASE+COVER+1&uID=0

 

looking in the hole can you see where the bolt is snaped  if you take the side caseing of would it be possible to get some grips on the stump and turn it back out ?



-- Edited by MDK on Sunday 16th of June 2013 10:00:24 PM

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If the bolt is proper in there my advicd remains. Take the engine out and het a professional to do it. The tolereances are minimal. I've tried everything and its still pissing oil.

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I more meant having the right parts (gasket and new bolts) to put it back together again IF I can get the bolt out.

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Just reuse the old gasket or make one. Doesn't need to be genuine.

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Some instant gasket or something similar would also work.

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MDK


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when removeing that caseing it is always possible to save the gasket just watch it for sticking in places as you pull the cover away if it do,s tear a little as said get some silcone gasket sealent works atreat


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Thanks for the help guys but I had to take it in to Wigan Yamaha in the end. I slipped a disc in my back a few weeks ago and havent been able to do anything with it. £70 quid for the repair wasnt so bad. I still shouldnt be riding yet as my back is still bad - but I had to get it home didnt I? wink

 



-- Edited by kebabby on Saturday 20th of July 2013 03:50:33 PM

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Thats a shame mate. £70 is a lot for the minuscule job it was. But like said can't complain. I bet £50 of that was just getting the engine out the frame.

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Should have said £50 for the work, £20 quid was for new oil and steel bolt set.

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Ah true. Not bad price all things considered.

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