They said that I would have to send the carb back for a new one (their dealers demand), but if I were in a hurry I could buy another one and send that one back, and when it would arrive back to them they would pay back the money.
now I don't have time for that :D so I bought some really good glue (like superglue but also petrol and oil resistive etc.), now I hope that will do it
I'll write a short guide here on how I did it when putting on the TMX30 carb, So it'll help you guys if you decide to put on a tmx30 yourself... and hopefully you will have it done alot faster than me since you know what to do hehe
First step is to remove all the things that's in the way (tank, plastics, seat)
Second step is to remove your old carb (loose up the clamps on the manifolds and pull it out. Then unscrew the top of the carb and take off the throttle cable by first taking up the green plastic using long nose pliers) When you take off the cooler hoses from the carb, leave one on the cylinderhead and join it up where the other hose came from, just like in the picture. This is because the tmx30 don't have this "function" to keep the carb warm so it wont freeze when it's really cold.
Then you want to remove the inlet manifold, not the reeds unless you want to replace them on the same time (which I would recommend if you got alot of extra money to spend, but better reeds wont give more bhp really, just increase throttle response). Here is a pic on the screws on the manifold. It's no fun if you come this far and realise that you don't got the right bits for the screwdriver...
Oh and before you remove it, rip off the boost bottle and the oil hose (be sure to clamp the hose, you don't want too much air in there)
Then Drill out the inlet manifold to ~30mm diameter with a 30mm diameter flapwheel (and after just put it back on the engine and put back the boost bottle and the oil hose) You can also drill easy right at the manifold where the carb comes so it will come easier off and on
Now it's optional if you rip that thing below off the airbox, but I warn you, it's a hell to put it back on.. You can take it off and drill easy at the manifold where the carb comes in, so the carb will easier come off and on which I did. But if you leave it it'll just be a bit harder to put it on the carb (it was quite tight actually, so if you got time take it off and drill it, but it wont be fun putting it back on!)
and dont forget to take a break and eat some pizza
I got low on battery on the phone from playing ABBA, hahah, so I couldn't get any pic from how it looks now I'm going to repaint the exhaust tomorrow but after that I'll try fix the throttle cable, and get some more photos... and write the rest of this little guide;)
-- Edited by zander on Wednesday 31st of July 2013 10:44:45 AM
It's been a little bit of pain in the ass puttin on the new carb today
Now I'm off to the gym so I'll tell you more later tonight (and post some photos)
But the main problem right now is that the throttlecable is about 15-17mm too short, so the "piston" inside the carb is in the middle when the throttlecable is at its loosest....
Ideas?
Alright, well I still got the nongenuine throttlecable left over, I'll take that with me in case anything would go wrong and have a look at it tomorrow.
To fix this you need to cut of 20mm exactly of the throttle cable (not the wire, only the plastic surrounding it)
Open the cablesplitter up and take off the cable that goes to the carb from the plastic piece inside, then pull the cable out.
Then cut at the end that goes into the cable splitter
Hopefully you did not cut off the wire and it looks like this when you have everything back togather again ;)
I have the carb on place now, but it got too dark so couldn't get a photo. It was quite tight to get it on but with some violence it worked (So yeah rip that thing off from the airbox and drill it out a bit at the manifold, it'll save you time to take on and off the carb in the future)
I'll put on the exhaust tomorrow as I've painted it today. I think I'll try fix the electric starter too before I start it up. Then I'll start jetting...
Best thing you can do for future is to complete this thread. Then under carbs open up a new thread. Titled TMX30 mikuni installation guide. And lots of tags. All in on post. Essy to follow.
Best thing you can do for future is to complete this thread. Then under carbs open up a new thread. Titled TMX30 mikuni installation guide. And lots of tags. All in on post. Essy to follow.
Then what to do is to cut the petrol hose to 92mm (might be different for the R's, as I've got an RE, so I recommend you measure the lenght first). And take old petrol filter and put it inside of the hose. Then put the carb on and put on all the hoses
Then I've blocked this off, as it's restricting the airflow, and also cut open the hole of the airbox to about 2 times bigger (might be cutting more, but I haven't set up the carb completely yet)
-- Edited by zander on Friday 2nd of August 2013 11:04:36 AM
At the moment I'm running
- 20 pilot jet with airscrew about 2 3/4 turns out (think 17.5 would suit better)
- needle clip 1 notch down
- 230 main jet and 80 powerjet
- airbox hole 2x bigger
It runs quite good at the moment, but not perfect. I think it's running a bit too lean on the top end, but throttle response seems fine (probably could be set up just slightly better).
I am going to try to cover up a little part of the airbox hole, and put on the 220 main jet.
If it doesn't run perfect after that, I'll block off the powerjet because personally I don't find it any useful. Powerjet only works when the engine is revving flat, and who wanna be revving flat with a 2stroke haha, not but seriously, It would be alot easier to jet without the powerjet and I think powerjet suits 4strokes alot better...
Someone get this carb too and share your setup! :D
The thing I glued at the hose that leads the powerjet started to leak ofcourse, so I'll plug the powerjet part and get a bigger main jet now.
I read somewhere that powerjet is really good for 2strokes (as it will save you fuel) if you get it setup right, but really, it's not worth the time it takes and all the jet costs
I've changed jets like 10 times and haven't got it perfect yet (was getting really close though), and now that thing started leaking so gotto block it off anyway
I recommend you block the powerjet off unless you got some real carb tuning experience from before...
I'll pick up some bigger main jets when I pick up the brushes, which arrived today, for the electric starter soon. Will block off the powerjet then.
then when I get it setup right I'll try make a seperate thread and write a guide :)