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Post Info TOPIC: spare engine-bottom end now stripped


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spare engine-bottom end now stripped
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managed to get couple hrs and decided to strip the spare engine completely. crank needs going for rebuild and new seals etc...is it worth putting new gearbox bearings in? how much do they cost?

 

Also go big issue with the state of cases....they need real deep cleaning..whats best way of doing this please?



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MDK


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petrol is great and evaporates away any left overs just dont smoke or do this indoors ... I find with some things give a good clean with petrol and old toothbrush nothing arbrasive then swill with a little more fuel and stick in a sealed bin bag over night realy loosens up old grime or oil ..

dont be tempted to sand scrub or scrape at anything it should come clean with a little elbow grease .

sure other will have better or other ways of doing it so hang five and wait for more answers .

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good clean up of a old batterd  dtr  95

 



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Can't go wrong with a solvent like petrol or paraffin with a toothbrush like MDK says that's how I done it.

If you click on my profile I have the codes for the gearbox bearings, get them off simply bearings for peanuts. Defiantly worth replacing them.

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ok- cases cleaned- sprayed up and baked. looking very nice
new gearbox bearings are now here.
awaiting sealant for cases, then then putting back together starts.

not looking forward to that bit at all. any tips on where to start lo...been watching the video of the engine strip down and reading Norfes strip guide...but really not happy still lol.

have plastic bags with all the bits in and in no rush to get done, but want it right!

Also thinking i could do with replacing the crankcase screws- the ones that hold cases together- any idea where i can them and what sizes i'm looking at?

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about to drop bearings in - same process? heat engine and freeze bearings? should drop in then?

 



-- Edited by dread123 on Thursday 6th of February 2014 12:37:07 PM

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Yep. Make sure they're square. You shouldn't need a drift. I just used my finger through the middle.

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right bearings in site now :got fat fingers Cal..so just put back in oven untill the bearings actually slipped in without any encourage. ensured they were all square :p

right now please bare with me- gonna be asking a lot of questions from now on!!

Manual and workshop manual are handy next to me.

this will be over next few days so no rush to get done today- where do i start now lol

in real laymans terms please...although i have good mechanical backround i am dreading having screws/washers left over :p

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MDK


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some one should have done a step by step with each part numberd to what to put back in first 2 -3 ect .

real pain in the ass to put 2-3 things back in only to have to remove to get no 4 in I used to lay things out in order I removed them then work backwards for puting them back .

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good clean up of a old batterd  dtr  95

 



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yeah would have been the plan but was stripped last year and wasnt allowed to clutter my shed- otherwsise would be missing parts now hahaha



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some pics- when checking the gears and the selector forks are installed correctly- how do i know which is neautral?  turning the selector drum each time drops into a gear but no way of knowing



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sussed that part - as the other case will only fit on when its in neutral -so i married the right side up to ensure fits :p
progressing faster than i expected :p- just need to borrow the impact wrench from work mechanics and then i can start assembling clutch side etc

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Yeah I know right! You really do whizz through it.

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yep really flying through it- possbly need to sort new screws for the case and need this sealant for the cases, also need to order a left hand crank seal-used the spare i had on my running engine a few months

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I need to do this to my spare when i get time

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i blew my dt up ... but i fixed it.... Then i crashed it.... but i didnt fix it right and 2 scouser's come in the middle of the night and left me with a working bike 



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seriously mate get it done...this is going to be my fully rebuilt and completely spare engine- shall be on standby incase anything happens to current engine lol. also happen to have a whole rebuilt spare top end/barrel/piston, gasket etc on standby hahaha

if you have the time- and its not that long needed really - believe you have yours stripped dont you

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yeh well i need to get the flywheel off and thats stubbed me and then i just have to split the case

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i blew my dt up ... but i fixed it.... Then i crashed it.... but i didnt fix it right and 2 scouser's come in the middle of the night and left me with a working bike 



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dread123 wrote:

seriously mate get it done...this is going to be my fully rebuilt and completely spare engine- shall be on standby incase anything happens to current engine lol. also happen to have a whole rebuilt spare top end/barrel/piston, gasket etc on standby hahaha

if you have the time- and its not that long needed really - believe you have yours stripped dont you


 exactly what I've done mate. Don't tell my parents that though. I don't think they'd appreciate it haha!



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I didnt have the flywheel puller tool with me (its in my garage in ireland or the uk) used the old sweede, I dont recommend but I used a work mate, viced the flywheel with wood, placed a large piece of bubble wrap( and tensioned bed sheet) under the workmate/engine and got a nylon hammer on the loosened flywheel bolt... few good whalops and it came free... but be careful if you try this... dont bugger the thread (trying without the nut on the thread) and dont use a regular hammer it will wreck it.. nylon or rubber doesnt damage used corectly...im a diesel engineer by trade and was careful... learned the hard way years ago...

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cheers Rwszc rick...

Some say Live to ride, I say ride to live, and depending how you ride, decides how long u live lol



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anyone help with which crank case screws go where? i neve laid them out and some are different lengths? also anyone know where i can get replacement ones? what size are they m6? cheers

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NEV


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Little tip I use Dread, is to get a bit of thickish cardboard, draw round your crankcase cover then mark roughly where the bolts go on it, using a Philips screwdriver make a hole in every bolt hole mark, so that when you next come to taking bolts out it helps in two ways, one to keep all bolts safe, and secondly to make sure each and every bolt you take out, can go back into the hole you took it from, just keep it safe somewhere, for the next time you need it. I now use a plastic bucket lid for mine, instead of cardboard.

Oh and yes they are M6 bolts, except for the oil drain bolt which is M8.



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I didn't have that problem. They just screw into metal. Surely if it fits then it's good enough. I have a massive fixings tray full of stainless bolts so I just replaced all the bolts with new stainless ones.

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good tip Nev...will use that in future :p

THat was my thinking Cal...but dont fancy making mess if wrong size goes in..or not long enough etc?



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just ordered some new m6-50mm and 60mm bolts as measured by the old ones- new left hand seal coming and sealant for cases and then should be ready to finish putting back together this bad boy!!





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Still mate it's pretty obvious where they go. If you screw it in and it's sticking out then obviously the wrong size.

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well figured it out...so have assembled halves together and put suggested sealer on.new stainless steel bolts in place of the rubbish ones and all torqued up!

shall start assembling clutch side tomorrow as i have the house to myself :p might have this all done by end of week?

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one question- may have put little too much sealant on? when it goes off can i just peel whats on the outside off? never used this stuff before?

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NEV


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Always find an incentive to work on my bike a bit more, just after I've told my missus her arse is getting bigger if something doesn't fit her any longer, works a treat, and yes you can peel gasket sealant but prefer a craft knife personally

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just finishing the engine re-assmemby- seem to have little play in the clutch area? where the main shaft that the clutch basket sits on there is slight movement back and forth not much but noticable? is this supposed to have a little room for movement or should it be solid?

Am i looking at pulling it back apart now?

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taking on some good advice, cheers Norfe, Cal

Danny Dt, get that vide uploaded lol cheers



-- Edited by dread123 on Sunday 2nd of March 2014 05:07:30 PM

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