Ok will have another look tonight is it worth trying a iridium plug or a br8
Iridium is a must!!!
Reasons?
Not sure of the technical explanation, but they just work better and don't foul like the other's. Best way to see is try one and see how much better it is
I tried 1 ages ago and the bike started 1st kick in stead of 2-3 kicks the 1st time then went back to normal after that lol they don't make any difference on little 125 engines
Mine still starts first kick, honestly i went through 3 plugs in about 5 months before i switched and its been 7 months since on the same plug
you only need cross the cables on the early models- yours is not one of them!
also you need to ensure you have the correct tension otherwise it will struggle a nd make all sorts of noises as the motor struggles to turn against the tension of wires!
Is it stamped on the cables anywhere I presume there meant to be 3rm cables on there.have slackened the cables off a bit now dread and the noise has gone but now the holes dont align fully.also with the spluttering am going to try a br8 plug as it runs quite cool anyway nearly clocked up 100 miles now is it safe to adjust the mixture screw out more than 1.5 turns to get the cold running better is there a maximum I can go too
are you setting the valve correctly... something to lock the hole and then equally adjust each side until you get right with no noise... takes some messing about to get right. mine was pain lol... you'll get there soon
Tried it the the way the haynes manual said but couldnt get it right so in the end tightened the no1 adjuster until it turned the pulley to the correct position the tightened no.2 if I was to start again do I have to wind the adjusters all the way in so theyre in the same amount and then start from there tightning evenly odd aswell that it only does this when warm its fine when cold other than a slight click
-- Edited by madrevs on Thursday 13th of March 2014 11:01:23 AM
Tried it the the way the haynes manual said but couldnt get it right so in the end tightened the no1 adjuster until it turned the pulley to the correct position the tightened no.2 if I was to start again do I have to wind the adjusters all the way in so theyre in the same amount and then start from there tightning evenly odd aswell that it only does this when warm its fine when cold other than a slight click
-- Edited by madrevs on Thursday 13th of March 2014 11:01:23 AM
Thats not the right way to do it. The manual is the right way. If you cant do it that way then STOP and ask or you're likely to have an issue as you do now.
Pinned the valve open at work today and it rid it home not sure if I can live with it like that.is it normal for the exhaust note to sound rubbish aswell might try it 3/4 open but know how I would lock it in place has anyone done this before and how best way to lock 3/4.will eventually put servo back on but am a bit worried that noise is the valve catching piston again
Pinned the valve open at work today and it rid it home not sure if I can live with it like that.is it normal for the exhaust note to sound rubbish aswell might try it 3/4 open but know how I would lock it in place has anyone done this before and how best way to lock 3/4.will eventually put servo back on but am a bit worried that noise is the valve catching piston again
Since for some reason you said you sticking to 30mph pin it completely closed.
Remove the plastic part that the cable's fix too turn the powervavle 180 degree's around
put it back on and pin it open and it should now be fully closed giving you maximum bottom end
p.s if after spending all that money on rebuild if mine was making any noise i thought wasn't normal i would have it back off
for the price of gaskets...you can reuse OEM bottom one
After hundred miles or so have now started taking it up to around 5k with the odd blip to 7k valve seems to turn freely without motor on but am going to take it out when I get a chance to check for catching.have now drilled a small hole in the pulley wheel casing half way between the right hand mounting bolt and the notch on the cylinder and have bolted it through to secure it in place.i am guessing this is half way open though will take a pic in a bit and hopefully someone can confirm this. Sticking to the 500 mile run in as alot of reputable people on here have recommended it dont want to blow my piston on a fresh rebuild.how many miles have you clocked up now.also can anyone confirm if the longer of the two cables mounts on the left or right side for when I reconnect it.
Had another fiddle with the servo today.after alot of fiddling around I found if I pushed the pulley wheel in while it was turning the noise went.have taken a video
So took the servo apart and found that the gear cog that the shaft sits on had worn a groove in the plastic casing allowing play in the shaft.so took all the gears apart and found a suitable washer to use as a spacer against the plastic.put all back together and now works perfect again.
Thought it was only the older moldels that cables crossed.mines a 2003 so cables shouldnt cross do need to get some new cables though as these are starting to frey a bit cant see any numbers on them though
-- Edited by madrevs on Tuesday 18th of March 2014 08:35:49 PM
Thought it was only the older moldels that cables crossed.mines a 2003 so cables shouldnt cross do need to get some new cables though as these are starting to frey a bit cant see any numbers on them though
-- Edited by madrevs on Tuesday 18th of March 2014 08:35:49 PM
is that yours in the video ? as sure I can see numbers
like so
-- Edited by MDK on Wednesday 19th of March 2014 01:41:29 AM