Grampian are sound...they know what they are doing and talking about. dont worry about the piston. they would have bored it to that-so dont bother messing about!
no need to check ring gap, they do all that as witnessed by myself twice when i sat and watched them repair my barrels! and i have got both jap and taiwanese kits -jap in my current running and taiwanese in my rebuilt motor
Thanks for the offer nev will keep it in mind and will check everything over before fitting just to be on the safe side.does anyone know about the inlet gasket I mentioned. Also can anyone confirm which way round the thermostat fits in as it can go in two ways it will either fit in the thermostat housing or the cylinder head.thanks
Thanks for the offer nev will keep it in mind and will check everything over before fitting just to be on the safe side.does anyone know about the inlet gasket I mentioned. Also can anyone confirm which way round the thermostat fits in as it can go in two ways it will either fit in the thermostat housing or the cylinder head.thanks
Thermo goes with the spring end in the head and the rounded end facing up, not sure what you mean by does anyone know about the inlet gasket? it's a gasket like you have said...it sit's between the reedblock and inlet like you have already said... What else would you like to know?
Sorry werent to sure if it went between where the reedblock pushes into the engine.between the engine and reedblock rather than the rubber inlet and reed block.
Got my barrel back this morning am impressed with the amount of workmanship put into it for the price for 54 quid it include piston and japanese piston rings rebore to 58.4 Chamfering the damaged ports Modyfying powervalve and 24 hour delivery back Paid for it at 5:15 pm yesterday and was delivered back to me at 9:15 am this morning. In the piston ring kit I had the two rings and this.whats it for and where does it fit.presume it goes behind one of the rings but which one also is there a certain way the rings go.like top and bottom etc or does it not matter as long as the chamfered edge lines up with the pin
Aye have a look through the piston threads, I think it shows you in there the correct way the rings go, Northe put it up in there I think.
Plus read your manual, it tells you in there also, plus there's the added bonus that whilst you are looking how to do something in the manual you come across other usefull bits of info too.
Will see if I can dig it out did have a look for it the other night and cant find it anywhere lol will have another look if not will print off another one
Aye just print off the relevant stuff and bang it into one of those file holders with the see through sleeves. give me a shout if you can't find your manualI have one here
Thanks have sent u a pm about manual as cant find mine anywhere.also cant find anything on the forum about which way round piston rings fit so presume it doesnt matter which one goes on top and bottom
Apparently one is of keystone and plain section and the other is of plain section according to haynes both look identical to me but one is slighly wider.does this sound right or do u thinkn ive got the wrong rings
they are not the wrong rings! with some ring sets you do get wider/tapered rings- do the rings have any markings on ? the expander ring goes on the bottom riing groove
Both have identical markings only difference I can see is one measures 2.5 and one measures 2mm old rings are stuck on my old piston aswell so cant compare them as there stuck in the grooves
Spoke to grampian motors apparently the narrower ring goes on the bottom to compensate for the expander ring and the wider on the top.have put them on so the tapered edges line up with the pins.have also autosold the combustion area.whats the best way to modify the headgasket for the new larger bore
Top end is all back together now.also fitted the new inlet manifold gasket that came with the kit.all thats left to do now is refit carb powervalve motor and new oil feed pipe to inlet manifold.does the engine have to be running for the oil pump to pump oil out of the tube as when I pulled throttle back it didnt pump any oil out am going to bleed the oil pump just for safe measure.is there a better way of priming the new oil pipe other than in the haynes as engine is going to be starved of oil for a second or so while the pipe fills up
Just done a search and found my answer
-- Edited by madrevs on Sunday 2nd of March 2014 04:40:55 PM
even if it does put some 2t down the cylinder anyway let it lubricate a bit more than it should as standard it wnt do any damage but will make you feel better about the pump not adding any 2t for the first seconds
Will do theres already some in there from when I assembled everything but a little more wont hurt at least the new pipe is clear so can see it pumping through on first start up