DT125R ARCHIVE

dread123 · Moderator

RE: now a non runner

madrevs · DTR Senior Member

Well did around 30 miles today to and from work and all seems well apart from me forgetting to do the jubilee clip up tight on the top hose.only caused a drip though luckily.was good to get out on it again after 2 months in bits.thanks for all your help and advice.on another note sold my 3bn head on ebay for 99p lol was hardly worth the walk to the post office.

AndyYam · Guru

dread123 wrote:
to be honest... the problem is that the system is fully open when ignition off. when idling it is closed.. hence moving clockwise. so not really that different... just odd that the system sets itself fully open to start with?

The cycle is just to go from one end of the cycle to the other. Full open to full closed position and allow for adjusting. You need it fully open to adjust it as well as if it needs to be pinned open. The strange thing to me is as i said, why it does not keep the port at its lowest height for 0-3k ( ish) rpm. If the port was closed at this point then the engine would be proucing better power and saving fuel. As the videos on youtube show, the rd350 valve never does this.

madrevs · DTR Senior Member

Well now I seem to have a small coolant leak coming from somewhere above the head.its not much snd only drips when cold but not sure where its coming from.is there a certain way the two parts that bolt onto the head and go to carb have to go as think its coming from there.it rides spot ob and is running nice and cool so dont think its coming from head gasket

AndyYam · Guru

Probably forgot to put the washers in. Find the leak, Drain the coolant, disconnect, re seal. Re fit everything. Make sure everything is clean when you put it on and the hose clips for the rad hoses are all tight.

madrevs · DTR Senior Member

Took the suspected water connector off last night and the washers that are on there looked a bit worn but didnt have any copper washers the same size so have used the old washers and a bit of hylomar until I can get some new fibre ones today from work.hopefully this is where it was coming from.if it still leaks when I start it this morning will remove everything and have another look.is it possible to seap out of the head without overheating and if its coming from the head can I remove it and re use the gasket as have only done around 35 miles.was I meant to use gasket seal on the head aswell as a gasket as didnt use any

AndyYam · Guru

If the head is leaking water then chances are its warped. Did you check it and did you torque it up correctly? You dont need to use any gasket cement but can do.

Hopefully its just one of the water pipes. How are the clips holding the carb warmer pipes? Again, photos are more helpful than a description.

madrevs · DTR Senior Member

After starting it this morning and taking to work all seems well so must of been the washers on the carb pipe.

Victor · Guru

How long you plan on running in mate? i gave it the beans today after 100miles all fine

madrevs · DTR Senior Member

Gonna do the full 500 mile as frustrating as it is doing a max of around 35 mph it will be worth it plus have only covered around 50 miles enough people recommend it so there must be a method behind it.plus got to check the plug on mine as after left ticking over for say 15 mins when cold it bogs with blipping the throttle unless u put choke on for a couple of secs then all is well and is then fine.does this sound normal or am I leaving it ticking over too long its very very smokey on start up from cold and clears after a few mins.got standard jetting and air screw 1.5 turns out

Victor · Guru

madrevs wrote:
Gonna do the full 500 mile as frustrating as it is doing a max of around 35 mph it will be worth it plus have only covered around 50 miles enough people recommend it so there must be a method behind it.plus got to check the plug on mine as after left ticking over for say 15 mins when cold it bogs with blipping the throttle unless u put choke on for a couple of secs then all is well and is then fine.does this sound normal or am I leaving it ticking over too long its very very smokey on start up from cold and clears after a few mins.got standard jetting and air screw 1.5 turns out

Sometimes i need choke to start it and keep it running for the first 30 sec's that is all though, mine never bogs

I also read that excessive light load will cause cylinder glazing and ruin your performance/longevity

Also this is stickyd on the top-end section before this one

Before you go out remember to keep looking at the thermometer!!!! if anything has gone wrong its an early warning! Anything up to half way across the bar is safe.

1'st ride: Gear 1 and 2, never going past 1/2 revs, do not lug the engine, vary the revs and use lots of engine breaking, no hard acceleration.

2'nd ride: Gear 1,2,3 and 4 not going past 3/4 revs, do not lug the engine, vary the revs and use lots of engine breaking, no hard acceleration.

3'rd ride: Use all the gears, but go easy and do not redline the bike

4'th ride: Go for a longer ride 30-45 mins, all the gears, no red-lining.

5'th ride: Your bike is run in! just let it cool down properly one last time.

p.s I am on 150 miles now full throttle and power wheelies since 100, and did 6k rpm before that

-- Edited by Victor on Monday 10th of March 2014 05:04:55 PM

madrevs · DTR Senior Member

Mine is playing up a bit at the minute takes 3 or 4 kicks to start when cold which I thought would start first kick with a fresh top end.and its a bit boggy on tick over when cold.what happens I put choke on full give it 2/3 kicks and it starts flick the choke off after a minute or so and it ticks over but smokes very heavily throttle revs fine.leave it ticking over for a few mins smoke starts to clear and revs start to drop or if I blip throttle will bog and cut out.if I then start it again without choke it will just bog however flicking choke on again and starting and will then rev again fine leave choke on for around 30 secs flick it off and all is ok.i then ride it the ten miles home and it will tick over all day long.anyone any ideas am going to take plug out tonight but doubt that will tell me alot as only does it temporarily

Victor · Guru

madrevs wrote:
Mine is playing up a bit at the minute takes 3 or 4 kicks to start when cold which I thought would start first kick with a fresh top end.and its a bit boggy on tick over when cold.what happens I put choke on full give it 2/3 kicks and it starts flick the choke off after a minute or so and it ticks over but smokes very heavily throttle revs fine.leave it ticking over for a few mins smoke starts to clear and revs start to drop or if I blip throttle will bog and cut out.if I then start it again without choke it will just bog however flicking choke on again and starting and will then rev again fine leave choke on for around 30 secs flick it off and all is ok.i then ride it the ten miles home and it will tick over all day long.anyone any ideas am going to take plug out tonight but doubt that will tell me alot as only does it temporarily

crank seals probably

madrevs · DTR Senior Member

Dunno wasnt doing it before and it only does it the once.not using gearbox oil either might just leave it to be honest it runs and gets me where I need to go

AndyYam · Guru

Sounds like your just not giving it time to warm up. You want to shut the choke off as soon as its started. The petrol/air mixture will be rich and has been suggested it can effectivly wash the oil away which obviously isnt good. Use the choke to get it started then use the throttle to keep it running and allow it to fully warm up. It takes time. If its still running in, you dont want to let it sit idling for long periods. Give it little revs up to around 3-4k.

If you think its smoking too much, check the oil pump settings. If its black/dark smoke then it could be gear oil leaking in.

madrevs · DTR Senior Member

Nah definetly 2 stroke how long would you say it takes to warm up didnt realise that it was best to blip throttle rather than just leave to tick over.will check oil pump tomoro using haynes manual to see if its right might have disturbed something when I turned it manually for the first start .

Victor · Guru

madrevs wrote:
Nah definetly 2 stroke how long would you say it takes to warm up didnt realise that it was best to blip throttle rather than just leave to tick over.will check oil pump tomoro using haynes manual to see if its right might have disturbed something when I turned it manually for the first start .

Around 10-15 mins is good for me but i don't rev it, just start it up and go back indoor's bleh

madrevs · DTR Senior Member

Managed to check a few things over today took plug out which is wet with 2 stroke also checked oil pump settings and it looks slightly off could anyone confirm this it only seems like this on tick over and a ride down the road clears it is it worth adjusting the air screw is it in or out to lean it any other possible causes

2nd pic is no throttle 3rd pic is full throttle

Also in haynes manual it says theres no way to adjust oil pump

-- Edited by madrevs on Tuesday 11th of March 2014 04:23:50 PM

NEV · Guru

Left or anti-clockwise to lean it off, Right or clockwise to richen it up. ( L=L & R=R)

madrevs · DTR Senior Member

Thanks nev just tried going out another half a turn and still excactly the same.plus the top hose has now decided to split aswell and leak coolant everywhere.am starting to get a bit bored of this now lol.also when starting from cold and warming it up.it starts and I flick choke off revs up fine for a few mins then starts to die try to use throttle and it justs bogs only way I can then keep it running is by flicking choke back on if I dont it cuts out no matter what I do with throttle surley It cant be normal.also by looks of spark plug its running rich so me then putting choke on richens it up even more which then makes it run better doesnt make sense

-- Edited by madrevs on Tuesday 11th of March 2014 05:59:03 PM

madrevs · DTR Senior Member

Also have now noticed when the powervalve does its cleaning cycle when engines warm it turns to the right but when it then opens to the open position makes this loud grinding noise.any advice appreciated please as really need to use the bike friday.thanks

Victor · Guru

madrevs wrote:
Also have now noticed when the powervalve does its cleaning cycle when engines warm it turns to the right but when it then opens to the open position makes this loud grinding noise.any advice appreciated please as really need to use the bike friday.thanks

Make a video for us mate, it's not that easy to understand what you mean from word's

madrevs · DTR Senior Member

Ok will do sounds like its turning on cleaning cycle and getting stuck when it turns back to open and makes a loud clicking noise hope its not hitting the piston again

madrevs · DTR Senior Member

Dont spose any one can shed any light on the rich running surley it cant be normal for plug to be that wet would switching to premix solve it

AndyYam · Guru

If it's wet, it will be too much fuel and not too much oil.

madrevs · DTR Senior Member

Ok will have another look tonight is it worth trying a iridium plug or a br8

Victor · Guru

madrevs wrote:
Ok will have another look tonight is it worth trying a iridium plug or a br8

Iridium is a must!!!

AndyYam · Guru

Victor wrote:
madrevs wrote:
Ok will have another look tonight is it worth trying a iridium plug or a br8
Iridium is a must!!!

Reasons?

Victor · Guru

AndyYam wrote:
Victor wrote:
madrevs wrote:
Ok will have another look tonight is it worth trying a iridium plug or a br8
Iridium is a must!!!
Reasons?

Not sure of the technical explanation, but they just work better and don't foul like the other's. Best way to see is try one and see how much better it is

yamahayz125 · DTR Senior Member

Victor wrote:
AndyYam wrote:
Victor wrote:
madrevs wrote:
Ok will have another look tonight is it worth trying a iridium plug or a br8
Iridium is a must!!!
Reasons?
Not sure of the technical explanation, but they just work better and don't foul like the other's. Best way to see is try one and see how much better it is

I tried 1 ages ago and the bike started 1st kick in stead of 2-3 kicks the 1st time then went back to normal after that lol they don't make any difference on little 125 engines