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Post Info TOPIC: running in my dt best way to do it?


DTR Legend

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RE: running in my dt best way to do it?
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Man dont piss about with running the engine in, flat out 24/7 heeeeeehehehehe

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yamahayz125 wrote:

if you think about it good oil protects things stops wear. were as a mineral oil doesn't as such it helps bed the moving parts in which you want av spoke to a 2 stroke specialist and the first thing he said was dnt use a fully synthetic oil  use mineral are part synthetic


 Based on your attitude and comments on other threads I don't plan to EVER take anything you say on here seriously and certainly wouldnt take advice from you. May seem harsh but thats the way it is.



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I thinks we needs some heavier modding on subjects like this. It's all well and good having your own opinion but these are peoples bikes and alot of work has obviously gone into rebuilding and if someone is asking these questions then they obviously want genuine advice.

Now it's up to you if you listen to people saying 3 heat and cool cycles and use mineral oil but bear in mind that Engine manafactuars will always say 500miles running in period. It may sound like alot, but the point is to prevent premature wear on the engine by allowing the rings to bed in correctly and create a good seal. The use of a lower grade oil or mineral oil is sometimes reccommended for nikasil plated bores and they also only need 3 heat and cool cycles. This is because the bore surface (nikasil plating) is far far tougher and its only the piston rings that are needing to wear down to create the seal. They also often use single ringed pistons which is naturaly going to reduce the time it takes to run in. I think most people are finding info from offroad 2 strokes that use plated bores and not on road steel bored and honed cylinder bikes.

On steel bores that have been honed and have cross hatching you need alot more of a running in period, hence why road bikes with steel bores all have a reccomended 500 miles run in time. It's also important to realise the difference between initial break in and a long term run in. An initial break in is the first 3-4 runs of the engine after a rebuild which will ofcourse include heat a cool cycles purely because you are starting the bike and then letting it cool down before starting it again. Then you move onto the longer term running in of the engine which is a case of

From my own research, my understanding is that the idea is to gradually increase the amount of time the engine is running for during the start of its life. So 5 minutes, then allow to completely cool. Then 10 minutes, then cool, then 15 minutes then cool.

Things to avoid are prolonged use at a constant rpm. you need to use rev range in a controlled way. Dont get confused with throttle and revs. You can bring the revs up without needing alot of throttle. It's suggested to use no more than 50% throttle for the first 3-4 runs of the engine but bringing the revs up and varying the revs are very important to create a seal. After that, gradually increase the throttle useage.

The reason some people say not to use synthetic oil is to avoid glazing the cylinder but thats more likely to happen by not varying the revs.

Anyway thats my 2 cents on running in.



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AndyYam wrote:
yamahayz125 wrote:

if you think about it good oil protects things stops wear. were as a mineral oil doesn't as such it helps bed the moving parts in which you want av spoke to a 2 stroke specialist and the first thing he said was dnt use a fully synthetic oil  use mineral are part synthetic


 Based on your attitude and comments on other threads I don't plan to EVER take anything you say on here seriously and certainly wouldnt take advice from you. May seem harsh but thats the way it is.


 ya not the brightest of sparks ya self so same applies to you.



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To be fair Andy that picture i posted came from a Nikasil plated bore. Aprilia rs125 160cc polini kit which is nikasil plates.

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The Leviathan Project



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Everyone runs their bikes in differently. If it works for you do it. But I certainly won't be going slow for 500 miles to run in a topend. I personally think it's bollocks running a topend in.

If you've done a bottom end rebuild, then yeah I understand. But I'd only take it easy for 100 miles. If it's a MX bike, a tank or two then pin it.

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as above there are many ways to run in an engine.. Google it if your that concerned. but this thread will not descend into a slanging match!

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Its just a laugh man biggrin



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it always is...



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yamahayz125 wrote:
AndyYam wrote:
yamahayz125 wrote:

if you think about it good oil protects things stops wear. were as a mineral oil doesn't as such it helps bed the moving parts in which you want av spoke to a 2 stroke specialist and the first thing he said was dnt use a fully synthetic oil  use mineral are part synthetic


 Based on your attitude and comments on other threads I don't plan to EVER take anything you say on here seriously and certainly wouldnt take advice from you. May seem harsh but thats the way it is.


 ya not the brightest of sparks ya self so same applies to you.


 I'm not gonna continue a full blown argument with you I was just stating a fact. If you wanna pm me and explain why im "not the brightest of sparks" then feel free. I think maybe I hit a nerve and you decided to throw a petty insult back in defense without thinking it through. I probably shouldnt have replied in the first place but I dont want to see genuine people on the forum take bad advice and end up not getting the most out of their hard work. It's also your attitude one here thats less than impressive. Seems like you just want to tell everyone that you know best and are right, as opposed to trying to help your fellow enthusiasts.



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