So, I purchased a DT but, then I had continuous problems. So, while I was having the engine rebuilt I put some effort into cleaning it up a little.
Here are some pictures, however it's not complete due to lack of money, knowhow! :p
Before the clean up -
Progressing onto removing the original paint and getting rid of all the nasty surface rust;
Spraying time;
I used Plasti-kote for the spraying, however it scratches real easily. Is there a better option, other than powder coating ;).
Slowly going back together -
I purchased the bike with no indicators, there was nowhere to plug them into.. that was tricky to workout seeing as I had no clue what I was doing. However, I did it.. both ends working lovely. I felt like a god after getting those bad-boys working, not ashamed ;P
The front break switch wouldn't work either so, I pondered on that too, figured it was due to these two not connecting together..
90% back together; - oh, I sprayed the plastics blue, they were black.
I even gave the end can a little shiny -
I got the engine back, fitted it. Ride it around a little while but, It seemed to overheat. Turns out, the cylinder gasket was put on the wrong way round, ha. Due to heat seize, I decided I'll have a crack at the engine strip down. Check for wear etc. -
But, now I've gained some knowledge on this sector of bikes. I've decided I'm going to start again, alllll over!
I'd like to go SM (Current tyres are somewhat bold... close enough, eh? ;)). Rebuild the loom, with exact wiring colour and order from the Manual.
I could do with a cylinder at standard size. I don't like the idea of the YPVS hitting on the piston, how far can I go before this happens?
Let's hope it's done by the end of 2014! - If not, for sale! lol.
I m running a 2.5mm oversize piston on the Black/Green bike, didn't need a re-sleeve for that, just had to shave the powervalve, unlike the 4mm oversize piston in the Red hybrid, I had to re-sleeve for that.
Oh yeah sorry can shave the powervalve although I'm not keen on that idea. That is irreversible damage. Would rather just go for the resleeve. But i've got more money that sense
You still need to shave the powervalve if you re-sleeve too Calcun. The reason I went 4mm and not 5mm oversize, was that to have a working powervalve on a 5mm o/s piston it would have been basically shaved right up to the two dowel pins on the powervalve, hence having to pin it, instead of using a servo.
I didn't get a picture of the premiered process. I did the primer about 3 times with 4 coats of black. Shave down the Powervalve? That must take skill. What did you use?
How much has the resleeving cost you? Also, where can I find the sizes for resleeving as I've noticed engineers require these.
2.5mm and 4mm madness! See much performance increases?
Nah. Just use a dremel to chisel a little away from the powervalve. Personally i'd rather resleeve. Ain't cheap though. And comes with its own risks. £200 from PJME.
If you go oversize you can't have a working servo. So you'll lose out on bottom end. Mint top end. Just shïte on the bottom end.
Goes off the clock on the 2.5mm o/s Black/Green bike, the 4mm o/s Red hybrid starts up but not yet ready for the road, but reckon it will be good for 100 plus.
Guessing your green/black would do 90-95 flat out and the red'un would hit a ton nicely, flat out 105+? Those would be my guesstimates Nevwin
Was just on a youtube porto tuners hype last night with my mate, came across this vid, that's what I call some serious port work getting their DT to rev to 15-16k rpm flat LOL.
I'm going to try and get in touch with the tuner over there at some point this year when i come to mod my spares. I really do admire their DT work.
Oh, I see. I think I'd rather go for standard sleeve than oversize. I don't think I'll go for Pjme again, they rebored my current cylinder. I got it back with a hole in it then denied it.
That's pretty good for speed then, I bet the hybrid will be pretty rapid then.
I actually have a question about forks. I had the seals and oil replaced a few months back, bike hasn't even been ridden anywhere. Anyhoo, if I put a lot of pressure on the front end, feels like some play within inside. I believe there a brush/bearing at the bottom of the damper rod... If I'm getting that right! Could it be that?
I noticed when moving it around the garage yesterday.
Don't be fooled mate, there's nothing wrong with going oversize. You'll just have to file down the PV as said, but it's not a rocket scientists job, you could even use a metal file if you didn't have access to a dremel etc!
And in all honest I think you've just hit the nail on the head with your troubleshooting there buddy
The standard DT forks aren't exactly complex in internal design haha
For an everyday commuter mate that would ride like a pig! Lol. Real boggy in the low revs and i'd expect a very narrow band at 15K. Just not rideable as a daily commuter. Or even for road use. Nice for racing though.
I know Nev the sound is bloody heaven! And I'd have to say so, if for nothing other than that pure 2 stroke sound. I don't really think they care about bottom end in Porto, they just thrash the hell out of them and slip the clutch to make up for it haha, they seem to go like sheet of a shovel though, seen a few of their setup DT LC 100's/DTr 125s and they're mad.
Don't know if you remember Bruno Nevwin, but here's his DT clearly showing 16k and vibrating more than Nath's sock draw!
How much clearance do I need for the PV and Piston? I haven't come across this whilst reading such things, heh. I have a dermal so, it's just making sure that I have the right tools before I start changing things that I can't change back. Does anyone have an example of there shaved PV?
As for the forks, I've never done it myself. I've just read how todo it, looks straight forward but at that point I wasn't quite willing to go all hands on. I'm glad I've pretty much nailed it though ;), haha!
Those DT's in the videos are pretty insane. How people do these things, I don't know!
Is there a tool I could use for measuring, for most accurate result?
-- Edited by Bobleeswagger on Wednesday 5th of February 2014 06:59:52 PM
Due to the powervalve being made of alloy, you can see where the piston scuffs against it, personally I'd get a pencil and rub some graphite on the powervalve, but remember due to the heat everything will expand, so allow for that too.
That's cool, I wasn't are of it being alloy so, that'll make life a little easier. Graphite pencil is wise. When I had my cylinder rebored, used it a few times and the piston had a nice scuff up it.
