Should be what aluminium holder. So you want some plus gas and WD. I personally wouldn't touch it until it's been nicely soaked through with WD and Plus gas. Do a few heat cycles with a heat gun on LOW setting. Just allow the WD to penetrate properly.
Then use something like an Impact Drive to slowly drive the bits out without rounding them off. A slow process if you need it done quick.
06 plate done 32.000 miles used daily untill it seized on me just b4 xmas been stood in shed since .
got caliper off carrier but pins that locate pads seem solid n need em out to change pads eh !
Definitely or you'll just end up rounding them off then it's a whole other ballgame. Try covering the pads as much as possible too, WD soaked pads are no fun, trust me lol
truthfully i dont know as to what exactly to do , piston is moving in n out but would you recomend that i do ? am a passable spanner twirler but no expert by a long chalk ..
pads are totalled anyway need new set so not too bothered abt contaminatin em
bugger is just ran out of wd40 so bak to the shops !
also where shud i be coating in wd ? where the head is and or at rear of caliper where they seem to come through from other side ?
sorry if im goin on just need to sort this asap as its my only transport .
thanks again Dave
-- Edited by hairdoo on Sunday 9th of February 2014 04:47:03 PM
-- Edited by hairdoo on Sunday 9th of February 2014 04:49:33 PM
Mate if you're still struggling definitely take your time on Those. Apply a little heat to the bolts then lube with wd. Then apply a little more heat. Then lube with wd. Let it cool. Apply more heat than the last two attempts and take an impact driver to it. Using allen keys will most likely round those clean off and then you'll need a new calliper. Been there done that not fun.
If you don't own an impact driver then get one. Seriously mans best friend in the garage.
would at least take the caliper of the break line so you can clamp it to work on ..
they look well rounded off .. take it all off remove any rubbers and spry it to death in wd40 if need be put in a clear bag and leave over night . as said above heat can help free things up but remove if possible anything that may burn ..
I have done all kind of things to free things up even placed in pan of boiling water on the cooker .
with a good soaking in penetrating oil and the correct tool along with clamping the caliper in a vice they should either come free or snap ok if they do not snap flush as you can grip the stumps and turn them out but if they snap flush its drilling time .
this is a good lesson to check and lube-wd40-grease bolts screws and nuts once a week or month along with losed and tighten them to keep them from setting solid .
like exhaust bolts/nuts take good care of them as you will need to take them of at some point and in most cases when they lock up they snap .
well was attatched durin the pics but av removed brake line Took caliper to work , soaked it in a carrier bag wiv half a can of wd40 n out they came ! gave both a tap wiv big hammer n allen key shaft b4 mind you ..
Whats best 4 lubin sliding pins ??
-- Edited by hairdoo on Tuesday 11th of February 2014 07:09:58 PM
The wonders of WD40... 24hrs and itll free up almost anything, and if that doesnt work, the only soloution Ive used on pistons of all types (in this case V16 2 stroke detroit diesel) heat the hell out of the bore and piston then hit the piston with Freon ( freezing cold airconditioning fluid) high pressure direct from the bottle, and pop the piston shrinks instantly and its free.
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cheers Rwszc rick...
Some say Live to ride, I say ride to live, and depending how you ride, decides how long u live lol
