TDR cocks....ahem.....clocks are rather big! I've hacked mine apart and put the ignition thought the dash lights which has pulled it tight to the top yoke. Need to replace the bulbs with LEDs and mount them. I dont have the standard full fairing and made one up myself which will look quite tidy when finished
DTR clocks should bolt straight on, they are a bit more slim line but go for silly money on ebay.
How about a digital speedo meant for a mountain bike? Theres a unit called topeak Panoram that i was looking in to getting thats quite neat.
You need to watch for the gear ratio on the speedo drive on clocks from other bikes....it could read 30mph but you actually doing 40
can you get speedo's like the ones on mountain bikesbut made for motorbikes? With a light so u can see it in the dark ? going to try making a real slimline clocks with led's for the idiot light ect on my project DT
Any speedo using a magnetic reed switch on the wheel can be used on a motorbike. A magnet attaches to the spokes and the reed switch (magneticly operated switch) mounts on the inside of the fork leg. It may need a bit of modding though by exteneding the wire a little thought. I dont think cordless speedos transmit across a large enough distance. I think legal requirements are that is shows the correct speed and distance in total. So even if you get a cheepo from the local pound shop it should pass an MOT. If you get one specificaly for a motorbike your going to pay alot extra for a little bit more robustness.
The topeak panoram does have a momentry night light
Has anyone cut back the front end of their TDR fairing (like the one in my French power thread)? I'm sorely tempted but am a bit wary of hacking things apart without knowing it will definately work! Is there likely to be a problem with light wiring if I go from the standard twin headlight setup to an Acerbis style mini fairing? Don't want to do all the work then fail an MOT because I can't get sidelight's as well as main beam/dipped etc.
One thing you've got to watch when fitting an aftermarket fairing that doesnt use the normal large H4 bulb is when you when you switch to full beam the other light will go out. H4 bulbs have 2 filaments in you see and switch between the 2 for dipped and full beam.
The way to get around it is to wire the side light up as the dipped beam and the other a the full beam. I think MOT rules say that you dont have to have a side light but if you do it has to work as blown bulbs are a MOT failure
I've made my own fairing from ally sheet with twin oval lights with blue lens covers. I'll be making some sort of rad scoops (similar to the pic in the french TDR threat) from mesh and glass fibre later in the year. I'll have to post current progress pics soon.
That’s strange…..what type of bulbs are you using? I would have though the wiring would be the same whatever region the bike came from and different lens’ are fitted depending on country. Mine had fitments for the H4 bulb (large car type bulb) and can use both light for both dipped and full beam.
Yes, that acerbis unit would work (get the chrome version) but depending on you bulb fitment you may have to make a loom up to adapt the connectors unless you chop off any existing connectors and crimp your own on. However Acerbis units do not have the sidelights fitted as standard.
One last thing, if you are not familiar with electrics be very very carefull! Don’t rush and be methodical or else you run the risk of blowing CDI, servo motor or fuses at the very least. Disconntect anything that may go pop but of course leave the battery as you’ll need that
It is quite odd. I've actually got a UK manual for the TDR and Ireland and England are the only places where the lights both come on as dipped and full beam. France, Sweden, Portugal, Greece, Belgium, Germany and Switzerland all used the strange system indicated above. The bulbs and lights are the same (apart from the lens of course) but the wiring must be different to accomodate the discrepancy.
Cool, thanks for that. Just need to find the cheapest place to buy everything. Want to get everything required all ready before doing anything drastic! Need to sus out how to incorporate some 12V LED's into a Trail Tech computer housing for the main beam/neutral etc lights.
Bavin of Diss are a good supplier of Acerbis stuff. Just make sure you've got product codes to hand just in case http://www.bavinsmotorcycles.com/
Just an idea but you you could simply hot glue the LEDs to the outer casing of the mount....or mount them on a plate which mounts on the handle bar clamps Tip for the tell tail indicator light - wire 2 leds together in opposite ways (so + goes to - on one and - goes to + on the other) but use just one resister in series with the 2. You then have a left LED and a right LED. Confused? me to
For anyone who's interested the Trail Tech Endurance kit you want for a bike with 'right way up' forks is the 701-020 kit which isn't listed on their website but is available on request. I've got one on order at my local supplier to have a look at and my Acerbis Cyclope and brush guards with integrated indicaters should be here tomorrow
Well, I've now got my LED's on and everything's working well! A note to Robski: I actually had to wire up the indicators with one left and one right because when I simply replaced the bulb, the LED only worked for one direction... couldn't think of any other way than to use two as you suggested!
One question for anyone who might know... Having removed the original clocks etc, I've got some blank wires now from unused bulbs behind the gauges but one wire which runs completely separately from the plastic plugs and doesn't appear on the TDR wiring diagram. It's one that comes from the speedo, between the bulb and the drive (behind the odo) and is white with a green stripe, and goes to an individual bullet connector. Is this just a separate bulb or is it some kind of restrictor that I read about on DTR's?