Hi guys. I picked a 2006 dt125r up being told it just needed a piston. Sent barrell away to get rebored and piston as it need ed done.
Now I've got it back and built up but it starts and blows white smoke. Gets worse as u rev it. But it only stays started for 20-30 seconds and cuts out.
when I take plug out and check that is soaked in an oil/petrol mix. Dry it off and put it back and it fires up. Just does the same thou,
any ideas? It's had new gaskets and compression is good. Am I right in thinking it's the crankseals
Wouldn't be a bad idea introducing yourself in the welcome section before just posting away.
If it's just had a top end rebuild then it will smoke excessively. Also the nature of two strokes is that they burn lots of oil and should smoke heavily anyway.
That's true it got removed I forgot. But the general chat section just to say hello and a picture or whatever of your bike.
Balance the carb? Sorry I don't understand.
The oil is not driven from the the carb it's got a separate pump. Or at least it should. On the right hand side of the engine case above the clutch is a little cover that houses the oil pump.
It'll be driven from the crank and controlled by the throttle cable.
For that engine the correct oil pump setting can be found in this video:
Right yeah would be well worth reinstalling the oil pump.
If you have no oil pump then you will need to premix the oil at the correct ratio. If it's too rich then it will struggle to tick over and smoke loads on idle and revs.
Again this is what it's like running incorrect oil settings on my bike. This had a fresh rebuild so had plenty of oil down the cylinder and bottom end,
Thanks again moderator. Videos have been useful. Do u have any videos of where tubes go/ come from for the autolube.
Also ypvs. On the metal bit it is 1 and 2 from left to right. Now where it connects above that the numbers are opposite way round and so is wires. Take it this is wrong.
The only thing is keeping the thing ticking over now till I get it run in.
It goes from the oil pump to the inlet manifold. There is a little nipple on the inlet and it will go onto that.
Even my 4DL which was pumping in FAR too much oil ticked over. So I'm curious as to why it won't run.
You may have to adjust the air screw or see if the choke is on. I know that on the standard carb of a DTRE they WILL NOT start without choke. And then once warm after 20-30 seconds will keep stalling. So choke on for starting then removing.
If you're sure that it's got the right amount of oil then have a look at the carb settings. Make sure that tickover is nicely below 2K rpm. (Okay no RPM sensor on the DTRE) Try by ear so it's nicely ticking over but not cutting out. And that the air screw is 1 and half turnsout. A little more if it's struggling. Little less if it's bogging.
Yes ypvs is set like that but it's the other part at other end of cables I'm not 100% sure about as the cable that comes out number 1 is going to 2 above it.
Yes I have the tube still coming out autolube onto inlet. That's still there. So I take it the one I'm missing comes from tank that should be under seat.
I also have 2 tubes on carbs that don't see to go anywhere.
Yes started it with choke, gave it some revs after about 20-30 secs it cuts out. Tried turning choke off aswell after started but doesn't make a difference.
Callum i have a look at bike n pic together. That carb is slightly different but get the idea.
you keep saying bottle under seat ? what bottle under seat the 2t oil bottle is next to the fuel tank only thing under seat is air box and at rear water over flow bottle
Anyone know float height for carb as it's Defo an over fuelling problem. Start it and she dies 20 seconds later and plug is soaked.
also ypvs ain't activating when I conect battery.
ive attached a photo of carb. csn u tell me what the 2 blue and yellow pipes should be. This is just pipes I put on inlets to make it easier to see. Don't know what any should be.