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Post Info TOPIC: 2003 DT "Back to Road" Project - Limitless


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2003 DT "Back to Road" Project - Limitless
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Hey everyone, welcome to my 2003 DT "back to road" project! Im glad you're here because I'm probably going to need your help!

 

Just so you know this is my first ever bike, and I probably should have got one fully working and ready to go but I hate waiting and saving so **** it, I'll make it up with enthusiasm!

 

So as for the bike... Its a 2003 Yamaha DT with a random shade of blue frame! In all honesty I dont even know if it's in good condition, its all gravy to me but hey I want to learn right? anyways It seems the previous owner wanted it off road so its been gutted. The point of this project is to get it back on the road.

 

Bike bad points:

 

*The lights are screwed (aka not there!)

*Battery is weak... last owner said its been hidden away for the winter

*A few bolts are missing.. panels an such

*Front tire is flat

*Engine runs but wont self idle... idle screw maybe?

*Front brake leaver is snapped

*kinda a Big one... didnt know about VIN, so didnt check it when I bought it (might ruin my day this one)

 

Good points:

*It was cheap!... £700

*Engine runs.. decent compression

*Gears are good

*Brakes work

*Dep pip and Rethal handle bars.

*Instruments seem to work.

 

*Recently powder coated.

 

 

 

 



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The vin would of been covered when it got powder coated ? but overall it looks decent for 700 is the wires still there for the lights ?

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i blew my dt up ... but i fixed it.... Then i crashed it.... but i didnt fix it right and 2 scouser's come in the middle of the night and left me with a working bike 



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yeah they have been covered alright, seems only the last 5-6 numbers are readable. Have to find a way to undo that powder coating without damaging the vin! :S was going to save that till tomorrows update.

 

as for the wiring? i have no idea, that picture above is from the underside of the rear fender where the wiring should live. I havent had the panels of yet so i should have a better idea tomorrow. We can prey they left somthing to work with



-- Edited by 2BLimitless on Friday 25th of July 2014 11:34:46 PM

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Yeh but it looks decent for 700 ( i mean i got mine for 700 last year and she was all original)

dt 1.jpg



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i blew my dt up ... but i fixed it.... Then i crashed it.... but i didnt fix it right and 2 scouser's come in the middle of the night and left me with a working bike 



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That panel might be original yam but its not the right one for that bike lol
Nice scheme though

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In this photo here is the wires to your lights.

 

2014-07-25192804_zps53e949e0.jpg

Just cut the tie straps off and connect them up if your rear light is there, the colours should be identical unless you have a tailtidy, then the only correct wire is the black, black to black always as it's the negative. smile

Also I think they're your indicator wires. Should be a two pin black lead and a brown / green as well. I'm guessing the previous owner has just put the front ones behind the headlight, like I did mine when I removed my indicators. 

Go to your local motorbike shop, ask them for indicators, tell them what bike it is and that you don't want LED's. Should be four wires on the bike, two on each indicator. You won't need to do anything else, just connect them up. Also they won't blink until both indicators for that side is wired up. 

Also if the opposite indicator to the switch is on, then you have the wires incorrect, the black will be fine just a case of swapping the brown and green leads around on each indicator. smile Easy peasy. If they don't blink when all wired up, the relay is gone. The relay will only be gone if someone has chopped the leads and not insulated them. Will blow the fuse next to the battery also.



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Also as for your VIN numbers you only need the final six to be on show. Don't worry about the rest. Final six are unique to each bike, as long as they match your logbook, you're good to go.

It will only become an issue with MOT'ing if they aren't clearly visible/readable. Only the final six digits.

Don't worry about engine numbers, if they don't match the logbook it really isn't a big deal as most bikes have switched engines. Although there is a small chance of the engine being a stolen one if the numbers don't match the logbook. First thing I check on a motorbike before purchasing is that both numbers on the frame and engine match the logbook, if not I'll write them down, walk away and ask the local police station to run it through or walk away and not even bother.

Also your rear tail light actually looks wired up. Your indicators aren't a legal requirement in terms of MOT etc. But you cannot have pillions and will need to cover the switch with duct tape. And just use hand signals. I rode around without indicators for a little over a year. Mainly due to laziness. lol

 

P.S you can get a VIN number plate made up by someone in the metal / engineering industry then just tac it or weld it on to the frame near the headstock. smile

Something like this: 

vin1.jpg



-- Edited by Luke on Saturday 26th of July 2014 11:42:49 AM

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Luke your a god send mate! the final 6 VIN's are on show so Im happy with that! (the others are caked in powder) shame I cant check them till I get the V5 back in my name :( Thats a bitch of a DVLA security feature i guess...

 

I havent had a change to take them down and have a look at the wires yet but in the orange box seems to be a cut brown wire :S guessing thats my indicator!

and I have no Idea about what the red box is for yet.

 

I'll take more pictures tonight, Ive been looking at the wiring diagrams and I think i kindaaa get it-ish but obviously seeing it on a diagram and ID-ing the wires in real life after they have been cut is a different thing altogether.

 

Thanks for your help already Luke.



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Black earth for both indicators with a double female connector and one Brown and one Green for each separate indicators power feed, same for the front aswell.

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I believe that thing in the red box is a fuse on the newer models. I have a '97 model and they don't have them boxes.
As for cut wires they're easy enough to soldier back together.

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OK so I finally got to have a good look under the ladies skirt!
Seems my front indicator wires are there ready to go! thanks god for that! but it also seems someone has bunched the rear indicator wires so I'm going to need to crimp that **** back up.
I also sorted out the lack of idling, it just couldn't keep an idle originally. so I recharged the battery and adjusted the idle screw and patched up someone's crap attempt at joining up the expansion part of the exhaust to the rear silencer. now it seems to be running a hell of a lot better.
during my check I have found 3 things I don't understand:
1) Can anyone tell me what this is on top of my cylinder head? can't find it on the parts breakdown diagram?

2) Any idea where this connection has came from? don't like wires that don't have homes.

3) and finally seems my back tail light (sidelight setting) works but the brake light doesn't come on neither when the front brake or back brake is pressed. bulb seems good though? I also tried to adjust the brake switch linkage but that didn't work.
looking at the expansion chamber, looks like its been de-restricted. would you agree guys?

PS Found out that thing in the orange box from my last update was a neutral relay apparently.

Project Photo's:

]



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Photo 1 is the temp sender.

Photo 2 is the wire/spade connector that should connect to it.

The OEM temp sender would of had a spade connection, just change the wire to a bullet connection.

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Cheers thanks for clearing that one up victor. I was thinking hmmm engine seems hot, jeez how hot does this thing have to get before it moves from "c"


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I'd be a bit worried seeing the temperature sender being disconnected. Could have been removed to hide a overheating problem. Although I'm a very cynical person.

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Who knows, but considering I can pick up an engine for £250 on ebay, im not so worried. more worried about the frame and VIN Tbh.... Will see how it goes. I know that its definitly pushing coolent around and seemed to be at a ok temp when i left it idling. The kinda people I bought this from didnt really care about instrumentation. The other DT they had was in much worse shape then the one I bought.

Im going to see the Bike in a few days as I have bought some stuff to fix the front tire and front indicators so ill wire it up then and report back.

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Even if it was covering an overheating problem, it wouldn't be a hard fix. If it's not leaking coolant then worst case scenario it would be head gasket. £30 job and a couple of hours. Or water pump seal. Either way I wouldn't worry too much about things like that.

For £200 Norfe will rebuild your engine for you. Good reviews as well as a good lad you can have a brand spanking new engine.

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The Leviathan Project



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Once its mot'd id probley do that as i have no idea on the actual state of the engine. I know it was off-road-ed so im expecting it to have had a hard life. plus at least then i know what condition everything is at.

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I literally just rebuilt my crank. I've had the bike since 3k miles and ride it sensibly. It got nicked and ramped and even though it was only for 360 miles there was signs of blueing on the big end bearing. Whilst a full rebuild is relatively simple it's definitely worth replacing everything whilst it is stripped.

I forged the bottom end just so it'll last a little longer.

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Im thinking of re-wiring the bike. I was looking around the old dead and buried threads on the lighting section and found similer sytoms on my bike to the threads of old. Think somone ****ed with the electrics and didnt wire it back up right. For instance the back light is on but no break light, no front light either. Plus the loom wire colours change and miss-match at a few points... electrics, the part I know least about :(

Should have seen me taking off the battery, rubber gloves, insulated screw driver, arms out streched, looking away, expecting a electrocution. Looked like i was taking apart a high voltage transformer with a metal spoon.



-- Edited by 2BLimitless on Wednesday 30th of July 2014 09:32:40 AM

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Lol,

Yeah that is usually the case. I spent the last two weeks sorting out my loom. My bike got nicked and when it got back I was a little inexperienced, botched the loom together. Spent the best part of my two weeks off just resoldering the wires together, heat shrink and nice wires.

If you take your time and follow the Haynes (which if you haven't got one I'd suggest getting one (Especially for wiring)) you shouldn't have any problems. Yeah the battery on the DTR's probably won't give you a nasty shock. It's mainly if the bike is running and you're touch it, that is where it's likely to give you grief.



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Don't understand how the thieves can mess the loom up that bad, tbh. All the wires they need are behind the barrel, they won't need to go any further than the barrel to get it running. The only time I can understand them going further is to find out what colour the CDI wires are, but even then they shouldn't need to cut / snip them. A lot easier to do the barrel in than to mess around hot wiring.

The DT doesn't even run off a fuse, in terms of the engine so they could mess around connecting each and every one up before finding which is which and it wouldn't matter. Could put too much power into the CDI and blow it or anything else electrical, but I doubt it. 

 

If I had to mess around re-wiring my bike behind the barrel, I'd swap wires around for when thieves try it next time. biggrinbiggrin

 

Although I've said it before, and I'll say it again, if my bike gets stolen I don't want it back. Had stolen recovery's before, nothing but unreliable heaps after. Of course, I'd love to know who took it to get them back in some way. I find most thieves have parents with vehicles, would ruin their world if someone say, interfered with their parents cars, hahah. biggrinbiggrin



-- Edited by Luke on Thursday 31st of July 2014 04:38:54 AM

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Ordered all my stuff I need off ebay, the big fix is happening on Saturday :D hopfully i will fix my front tire, all the indicators fitted / Wired and last but not least find the electrical gremlin which is making my back brakes non-funk

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If it was used as a field bike, the brake switches are usually disconnected. Look at the rear brake pedal, follow it up on the spring and there should be a box thing with two wires going into it, is that present on your bike? Or better yet a picture of the rear brake pedal side of the bike?

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10509605_272744162931787_5025632172852273017_n.jpg

Look carefully at the back brake assembly. There's a little metal rod on a spring going up to a little box with two wires going into it, that's the rear brake light. The front one operates separately and is on the front brake (captain obvious, I know) 



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Both are present, and I have tried to adjust the brake switch but to no avail. The back lights turn on but it doesn't get anybrighter or anything so as far as I can see it. It could be the wiring (I have checked for loose wires) as in wired up back to front or both my break switches have failed. The bulb filiment seems to be intact too both of them. Need to buy a cheap volt meter really and go on a volt hunt! :S

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I'm going down on Saturday to work on it some more I'll take a full spread of pics. Honestly thank you guys so much you are all going to be in for a pint when I get to catch up with you all.

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Didn't like the kick starter eh Luke? ;)


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Be aware your bike has no oil pump/isn't connected and is running pre mix.

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My bike or Luke's Victor?


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The pic Luke has put up he means

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