Right well , my dt had a heat seizure about 500 miles after it had been rebored. (due to friend putting wrong spark plug in). i sent away for repair , because the piston got stuck at the top of the cylinder! I could put the piston thru the bottom of the cylinder then about half an inch to the top it gets stuck. so got it honed. all sorted. would of that been why it wouldnt of started because of the mis-shaped cylinder at the top? or would it at least of fired up?
Sorry if this is a stupid question but im a noob.
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''Regular maintenance is the key to reliability; irregular maintenance is the key to great exercise''
my friend put in a CP plug code without me even realising. its meant to have a BR lol. do you think the shape of the cylinder at the top stopped it fireing up? it ran fine for 600 miles. then the heat seizure started. then it ran fine for another 100 miles. then next day i went to start it up and wouldnt start what so ever. hopefully it will fire up now its been honed and piston now fits all way through the cylinder lol
-- Edited by The_DtR_Maniac1991 on Thursday 21st of August 2014 10:40:21 PM
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''Regular maintenance is the key to reliability; irregular maintenance is the key to great exercise''
Yeah, if the piston didn't move it wouldn't start. Wouldn't be any compression for it to start.
Whip your new topend on, torque it all up and off you go. 3 Heat cycles and then just take it easy no racing. People say to change oil's and all this, for topend's I personally just keep the same one I used before it blew up. Fully synthetic.
Rings should be bedded in within about 10 miles. Although everyone recommends doing 100 miles take it easy. Which ever you prefer to do is what it boils down to.
As for the heat cycles, basically start it up let it warm up, touch the topend with your fingers to see if it's hot or watch your temp gauge if you have one. Three of them from cold to hot ticking over. If it doesn't run a couple of throttle blips but NOT going through the rev range, as that'll start a cold seizure, the piston will expand before the cylinder does.
The longer you warm it up each time before you ride it hard, the longer it'll last.
Avoid high load on the engine (topping it out or going up the rev range) and going in high gears at slow speeds. Keep it revving freely.
And you friend? Ban him from even stepping near your bike with a tool. I'd be fuming and expect him to fork the repair bill.
EDIT: Nearly forgot, you'll need to re-torque your topend after 100 miles. Just to check, shouldn't have really moved much if anything at all.
-- Edited by Luke on Friday 22nd of August 2014 10:32:24 PM
Thanks for the information. You've been a great help (and everyone else who has replied to previous posts).
Yeah that's one thing i didn't do beforehand. heat cycles, although I couldn't really. as the minute i had finished my previous rebuild i had to ride 30 miles to work on a 50mph road. so kinda screwed it straight away!. This time I can let it warm up nicely.
Thanks again
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''Regular maintenance is the key to reliability; irregular maintenance is the key to great exercise''
