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Post Info TOPIC: Full DEP system for DT


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Full DEP system for DT
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Hi,


Can anyone confirm whether a DEP full exhaust system for a 03-06 DT, will fit a 2006 TDR125, and also how easy/difficult is it to fit exhausts on these bikes ?


Thanks!



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David


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Took me about 5 hours just to fit an end can from a DTR to my deltabox TDR. Basicaly the pipe fouled the frame and mounting brackets were in the wrong place. Get it specificaly for the TDR if you can

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edd


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also the dep sport looks like a 5 year old welded it. and it rusts like ****

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Cheers fellas - I would much rather find a specific TDR exhaust but can't find one anywhere!


I am so regretting buying this TDR - I never thought I would have such a chew on buying an '06 Yamaha but it won't even run without choke!


Wish I'd bought a Honda XR 4-stroke, they may be dull and not fast but at least they're reliable!


 


 



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David
edd


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warrenty? yamaha give 2 year warrenty on new bikes?

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Check your carb settings mate, sound like somethings not adjusted correctly. Theres a link to the Haynes manual somewhere round here but i cant find it at the mo but it sound like the air screw. Think it needs 2.5 turns out. Just follow the setting for the DTR as a guide


TDR might only be a 125 but it handles a hell of lot better than many other bigger bikes i've riden



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Found it!


http://dtr125.net/stuff2/TZR and DT125R service.pdf



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Thanks Robski, appreciate that.


Any clues on where the air screw is ?   I can't find it on the left or right of the bike (visible carb areas).....The Idle screw is nice and visible and I('ve tried adjusting that but the bike will not settle down - goes from racing idle to stalls......


I guess this means the air mixture screw is on the top, which means taking the tank off on the '06 model.


I checked the Haynes manual (great link!), but the carb looks different to mine - the air mixture screw is nice and visible on the Haynes pic !


 


 



-- Edited by Davros at 17:02, 2006-11-24

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David


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Deffo sounds like is a problem with the carb setup. Best option is to take it out and give it a good old clean. Think its been mentiond before but done Yam give a 2 year warranty? If you dont feel confident with taking the carb apart you might be best going to a dealer but the carb is really simple


Can you post a pic of your carb? I think the air screw sits at about 45 degrees and is recessed in to the carb casing. It'll be like a grub screw


 



-- Edited by r0bsk1 at 20:17, 2006-11-24

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The bike is an import and doesn't come with a warranty.  A "Dealer" warranty was given to the original purchaser in May but it costs £50 to transfer into my name and is not worth the paper it's written on. (+ it only has 4 months left to run).  With this warranty, uou have to pay for diagnostics of the problem yourself, then claim the specific parts and their fitment!  (too much hassle).


I'll be honest I'm not confident about taking that carb out - purely on account of the fact that there is absolutely no access to the thing on the 06 TDRs.... So would have to remove fuel tank - some say you don't have to but how on earth the carb could be removed without the fuel tank coming off I don't know.  It completely blocks the top access to the carb, and the thing certainly doesn't look like it's going to come out the side of the bike.


PArdon my ignorance Rob but when you say "Grub Screw" is that a white plastic screw that almost looks more like a plug?


Other than the Idle screw, that's the only thing I can see on the sides of the carb.


Thanks for your help, I know it's tricky when you can't see the bike - I'll try and get some pics up.


Dave. 



-- Edited by Davros at 20:58, 2006-11-24

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David


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Ah, there's always a catch aint there...


A grub screw is a screw with out the normal wide head head as found on a normal screw. I wouldnt have thought any screw in the carb would be plastic, mines made of brass.


What kind of frame do you have?....is it like the red one at the top of this page? If so its the same as mine and you can get the carb out without taking off the tank and airbox (thats underneath the tank). Its easy to get out once you loosen the airbox and tank bolts. Once you have the rubber boots off it will wiggle free to the gear selector side of the bike. might be a tight squeeze as its newish rubber but give it a squirt with WD40 and leaver it out. Just chant "YOU'RE COMING OUT!! YOU'RE COMING OUT!!"  At least it'll give the neighbours a laugh


Oh forgot to mention you'll need to disconnect the fuel line and water hoses to but they are no biggy. Once the carb is out watch out for spilt petrol from the overflows etc.


Where are the world are you Dave? Any where near Leeds?



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Cheers Rob.


You know, you're not going to believe this and you're going to think I'm just some newbie lunatic (!) but I have found the 45 degree angled part you were talking about (it's just to the right of the Idle screw) but it seems to be some sort of "non-adjustable" version of the carb, as there's no screw at all, just a white plastic cap with a pin-hole in it!!


Very strange, from the pics in the Haynes manual PDF and the info you've shared with me, I would swear this is where the air mixture screw would be, but it's as if it's been sealed off for some reason.


I tried to get a photo but the batteries are flat in the digital camera


I'll get a photo over the weekend though to show you.  There's no other part of the carb that has anything remotely adjustable. (Well apart from the choke lever!)


Thanks for the info about getting the Carb out - yeah, mine is the same as the TDR at the top of the page, and I had anoter look and can see what you mean, that it would come out with some persuasion.  I would just be worried that I would not be able to reassemble it and would kill an already dying 2006 TDR !   May have a go though.


The bike looks amazing and has the potential to be a fab 125...  As you said, the handling and ride of the bike are amazing, and it's faster off the mark than my old GS500 !   Mind, thats no wonder because at the moment, with the rough idling, stalling and hesitancy between 1-3k revs, all of my take-offs are rocket powered as I have to pin 5k revs to take-off and not lose all power!


Well I'm not a million miles away from Leeds - I'm from Newcastle but I live in Durham now, which is straight up the A1, about 80 miles North of Leeds.  





-- Edited by Davros at 00:08, 2006-11-25

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David


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hi guys i have the same bikes as you its a briliant bike thats realy reliable.


the grub screw thats at an angle with a plastic plug in it is just a cover prise it of and underneath you should see a grub screw some new tdr's have this.


also if you want i will let you know of the wire to earth on the cdi unit restrictor will have to take of the tank to see as i cant remember


make sure your choke isnt sticking maybe its  half on or a bit on this would give your the same symtoms


check the plug clean and make sure of the plug gap


also where the fuel goes into the carb theres a tiny filter pushed into where the rubber hose is pushed on so you could clean that make sure you have a good fuel flow into carb and out good luck



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Strange that about the plastic cap....might just be a cover to keep the crap out.


You mentioned that you have to rev it high to get going....have you got a powervalve servo fitted. On DTs where PV has been pegged open permanently the have no usable power below 6k. Have a look for a black rubber gizmo just in front of the air box near the cdi. You should also find 2 cables going from the left side of the engine into the gizmo. When you turn on the ignition you should hear a nice steady movement of the PV servo. If its there it may not be adjusted correct or might have a snapped cable. Cant remember how to adjust it off the top of my head but its all covered in the manual



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Thanksd Guys


I can't believ how much good, practical help I'm getting off this forum - it's restored my faith in the trail bike community!


Thanks Cosy - that's very useful to know that the grub screw is under the white cap - I will remove the plastic cap and try adjusting it tomorrow (when the rain hopefully stops!).


Also, I was looking for the green/brown restrictor wire to Earth to the frame, to restrict the bike and let it rev over 8,000, so if you could let us know where it is that would be great.


(Some say it is behind the lights/clocks but I think that must be older bikes as I couldn't find it on mine )


Rob - yea, it deffo has the servo fitted and seems to operate ok (you can hear it doing it's self cleaning cycle and moving when the ignition is turned on).


However the cables may be set at the wrong place, meaning like you said too little low down power.


I'll try and get to the air screw first and see if I can rectify that way.


The Spark Plug seems to be getting black and a bit oily.


Thanks again for the help.


 


 



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David


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its under the tank coming outa the cdi just cut it then crimp a conecter on it then earth it with one side of the  pv servo mounts


ps...make sure you conect the cdi side of it good luck



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Interesting mod Cosie, Does this only apply to later bikes? Where does the other end connect to or is it left hanging free. What does the green/brown connect to in the loom? I'll have to check a wiring diagram....

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YEEEEHAAAAA !!!!


My bike is fixed and running like a dream, thanks to you fellas!


Prised the white plastic air screw cover off and sure enough, there was the grub screw.  Started the bike and got it warmed up to normal operating temperature, then adjusted the mixture and idle screws.


The bike had definately been running lean, and once I reset the air mixture it just came to life.


It now idles smoothly (had to reset the Idle, once the mixture was correct but this was easy), and revs cleanly and without hesitation, right through the rev range (well up to 8,000, it's still restricted above that) 


At last I can start to enjoy this great bike !   Took it for a good run out, what a fantastic bike - I love it now it's running properly! 


Next on the list is definately to cut and Earth the Green/Brown wire, so that the CDI allows the bike to rev right through the band.  I'm not going to hugely modiy the bike. I just want unrestricted rev range, and other than that to replace the stock exhaust with a free-flowing one, without the Cat ..... still can't find one for the TDR though !   Checking eBay every day!


THANKS GUYS, I WAS STARTING TO GO INSANE WITH THE BIKE AND IT'S SO GOOD TO HAVE IT RUNNING PROPERLY!    I owe you both a pint!


Here's my bike:








 




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David


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thats great news.the wire you want to earth is black with a blue line ok mate heres a few pics to show you what i did its a retarder restriction also if you got a welder you can cut the exhaust  weld the baffles out as you can see in the pics any probs e-mail mate no probs as you can see the baffles realy restrict the flow chocking the power good luck

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Excellent, thanks for the pics Cosy, I know what I'm looking for now!


I've never taken the fuel tank off the bike before but I don't suppose that's too hard. I don't have any welding equipment to do the baffle job, so still on the lookout for an exhaust.


I'm going to see if I can track one down in France, Belgium of Germany where apparantly these bikes are much more common than here in the UK, where they're imported.


Thanks again! 



-- Edited by Davros at 15:20, 2006-11-26

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David


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At last I found an exhaust for the TDR !


nwards-p-2453.html">http://beedspeed.com/motorcycle-exhaust-gianelli-yamaha-tdr-125cc-9nwards-p-2453.html


Seems pretty good, although I can't tell if it's the whole system, or whether it excludes the can.


Not bad either way for £159...... will be putting that on my list to Santa!


 


 



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David


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that links not working for me bud.your bike looks great .to take tank of just take of the seat then the 12 mm nut that holds the tank down then pull the tank towards the back of the bike then turn the tank to the right around the 2 oclock mark and rest it on the frame be sure to tuck the pipes back as you dont want to pinch them when all is done.good luck

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i had a look at that site and thats a good exhaust not had  any experience with this exhaust but looks good heres a pic



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Glad to hear its running ok now. invoice is in the post


Just be careful with that exhaust mate, remember its not a UK bike so mountings may be different



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Mmm, strange. The link looks fine when I look at it in the post Edit screen, but then when I submit the post it turns strange, as above!  Ah well never mind.


Yeah, it's a nice looking system, think I'll go for it at the end of December, when Chrimbo pressie spending is out the way.


Thanks for the heads-up on the fittings r0bsk1, I'll ring Beedspeed and ask them before I order.


Thanks for the help with the fuel tank Cosy - sounds like even I could manage that!  Going to do it tomorrow after work - if the rain stops!


Cheers,




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David


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dont forget to take of the fairings before you take the tank of.your bike wont hesitate all through the rev range when you have finished with the de restricting

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Knew I'd seen that bike somewhere before...


http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2006-06-Yamaha-TDR125-2T-Supermoto-6-speed-TDR_W0QQitemZ270060990377QQihZ017QQcategoryZ9809QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem



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Yep - Have been in 2 minds about selling the TDR, as the wife does want to learn and she just can't manage on the TDR.  It's not a heavy bike as you know, but it is a bit big and bulky.


I put it on eBay to see what sort of interet it would get.  It's getting quite a lot of interest but I'm in the process of persuading the missus to let me keep it, and to get her a XR or XT as well, when we can afford it !!


In fact, I am off work today and am wanting to get out and try out the de-restriction!!


Don't think I'll sell it unless I get a very good offer



-- Edited by Davros at 14:15, 2006-11-29

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David


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Well I'm gonna have to say another big THANKS to Cosy, for the de-restriction advice on the '06 TDRs !!


Finally got round to doing mine this afternoon - took about 15 minutes, which ain't bad going for something where the tank needed to come off.   Actually that was another pleasant surprise from this - I didn't realise removing the tank was going to be so easy, only one bolt, as the front end is held in place by two forks.


While I was in there, I also pulled out the Air Intake Snorkel, as the bike has always felt a bit asphyxiated.


So what was it like after de-restriction;



  • Bike seemed more keen to start and sounded less rough on Idle.
  • Much, much smoother on revving in the low range. Revs smoothly through 1-3k
  • A bit of an induction "whoomph" at about 6k revs.
  • Tonnes more pick up, especially low down (probably from improving the air flow.
  • The bike used to start tailing off at 7k revs and stop dead at 8k revs;
  • .......It now pulls smoothly to 9.5k revs - I'm 90% sure the stock exhaust is preventing it going any higher than that, what with the cat, baffles & all the stifling back there!
  • .......So I have to get that new Gianelli exhaust !
  • But even the extra power I'm getting from 7-9.5k revs is so useful and the bike pulls like a train.  Earthing the restrictor seems to have improved general free-revving through the range, not just opening up the top end.
  • So fab job Cosy, and r0bsk1 for all your help.

Oh, and the bike has been taken off eBay - it's not going anywhere



-- Edited by Davros at 16:12, 2006-11-29

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David


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thats the best de restriction i know mate.dont keep the revs up for long periods if i were you. use the best 2 stroke you can get.and get that exhaust sorted.all you have to do now is handle the power hehehe


 


 


                                       



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