Im new here, just bought a DTR 125 (2001) last week. It's been set up for the field so the lights, speedo and ignition etc have gone, The bike does however still have the battery and some wiring which you can see has been severed near the headstock.
Now I've read a few of the previous posts regarding the powervalve but im not sure I've found my answer.
It does not move but I get a boost of power right and the top end of each gear. I can't say what revs I'm at as obviously the rev counter has have gone but from what I can gather, this means it's been pinned open.
The trouble I have with this is, when it comes in, it is far too late in the gear! By the time it kicks in i'm having to change gear and it's near impossible to '' keep it in the valve'' through the gears.
I need to know whether or not I can:
a) Get it working properly again without the ignition and speedo etc (just the battery)?
If the above is not possible or too much hassel then,
b) Set it in a fixed position which will get the valve to come in a little lower in the revs?
I'm not going to be going above 60 mph off road so I just need it to get to the powervalve quicker for accelleration perposes.
Sorry for the essay but I hope I've been comprehensive enough to make it easier to help me out!
Thanks,
Dan
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if i can't fix it with my lump hammer, it's electrical.
if you wire a servo up for the pv then im sure you could wire it up to a switch so that you can turn if off when the bike isnt running (thats all the igniton does essentially) You might just be changing up to early, but to check if it is pinned open on the left hand side of the barrel there is a round cap with 2 allen key bolts holding it down unscrew them and if the hole is at the top with a pin of some sort through it its pinned open if not then it isnt and you need to turn the pv so that the holes line up and put a screw bit or something around 4mm in and then put the cover back on, thats it sorted. Have you got anyother mods to the bike? gutted standard zorst? full dep pipe? Its hard to say if the pv is kicking in right as you might be changing gears too early in which case change later. If its all set up right and you want better acceleration drop a few teeth on the rear sprocket ;) 3 lees on the rear is the same as one less on the front i think. It makes it better for acceleration. But if you want it to have more torque put it up a few teeth.
It has a dep frontpipe but the tail pipe is standard. To get the valve to come in in second you really have to be at the top end of the revs, no good when your greenlaning. We've had the cap off and looked at the vavle, no pin as i remember but you couldnt really move the black plastic part much at all, i think thats because the cables are connected tho.
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if i can't fix it with my lump hammer, it's electrical.
yeh to move the black plastic part you have to adjust the power valve using the screw and lock abover the casing for the power valve. there will be a black cover over the adjusters.
lets try to explain whats happening. We had the bike on blocks and took the pv cap off. we tried to turn the valve by hand but couldnt. we then started the bike and put it in gear and got it to high revs, no movment fro cables whatsoever, same thing in second. Yet when riding the bike you can feel the valve come in in first but takes ages in second, you really have to be at the top end of the revs and it takes along time to get there.
-- Edited by danny boy on Monday 5th of April 2010 04:37:16 PM
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if i can't fix it with my lump hammer, it's electrical.
yeah i wondered that as the guys who turned it into a field bike left the battery on. possibly to keep the valve working as normal but due to it not doing its self cleaning process when the ignition is switched on the it may have got so clogged its just stopped?
Can the valves still work as normal with the battery alone?
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if i can't fix it with my lump hammer, it's electrical.
I think we'll try disconnecting cables, lining this hole up and pinning it first, see what happens then! shoud you be able to turn valve by hand with calbes connected bud?
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if i can't fix it with my lump hammer, it's electrical.
no, you have to undo the bolt in the middle, should be a 10. then turn the cables using the adjusters above the pv case. then when the hole lines up with the slot. pin it with a 4mm screw / drill bit. and disconnect the servo so it dousnt try an move when its pinned.
the reason for it coming in early first gear is because the first gear on a DT is very short. and dont worry about when it comes in, if its pinned fully open, it kicks in at 6500 revs, redline is at 10500, get ragging it !!!! haha :)
