This is down in the bournemouth/ringwood area. I bought a genuine small end bearing from yamaha (£13) thinking he wasn't going to supply me with one, he did but I didn't use it. Actually everything you see in the picture was supplied by the shop, so piston/rings/circlips/gudgeon pin/bearing which was good.
@ delve: Yeah alarm bells rang when he handed me them, there is a little hologram sticker that says genuine parts tho
You got me worried now haha, what's the worst that could happen? Another rebore if the gasket blows???
Yeah just done 100 miles now, was gonna go out today but it's p***ing it down!
EDIT: think i might know what the answer is going to be for the gaskets, just seen another thread for the wemoto gasket set. hmmmm, back to yammy i think.
-- Edited by Spartan on Tuesday 10th of August 2010 07:36:07 PM
Might aswell tag this on to the end of my re-build thread it's kind of related but...would anyone know what compression should be for me DTX 07 plate. I have searched, in another thread it has been mentioned that 110-130 psi is good but I think that was for a DTR, would this apply also to a DTX.
Only thing I could find in me haynes was the compression ratio should be 6.8:1 for DT's, I can't get my head round what this means.
Oh btw, I physically could not resist the urge any longer to pull back on the throttle tonight whilst out on a 'running in' ride. The difference is night and day to what it was before, infact I have been enjoying the difference abit too much lately, I have so far clocked just over 250miles of slowish riding. Surely I can start to give it some more by now.
Many thanks
-- Edited by Spartan on Tuesday 31st of August 2010 08:15:29 PM
hey spartan do u kno if u can fit head onto barrel first ? wonderin if theres enuf room to do this n get it in to frame to fit on to conrod , am askin cos cant get torque wrench on head when in frame?? cheers matey... Dave
Dave mate, to be honest I did not try this method. I fitted them separately only because I remember when I first tried to take the barrel out with the head on I had trouble. The top of the barrel was hitting the frame when I tried to lift it out over the studs, so I assumed I would have the same trouble getting it back in. Although I have been told it's possible.
Only thing I can suggest is to stick some copper ease or something similar over the threads, tighten the nuts by hand then with the ones you can get access to torque them up noting the amount of turns. Get a spanner and tighten the last nut to the amount of turns you counted.
I'm sure some of the more experienced amongst us will say otherwise though, expecially DTRDave who can whip the barrel out and in again in under 30min
Good luck with the re-build mate. Will be interested to here how you get on and the difference it makes to your bike....