Ok guys need alittle advice here as not sure what to do myself, I know there are topics on YPVS stuff, but dont think there is on this question I have to ask........
Ok when I done my rebore I knew I put the powervalve in upside down but it didnt matter then as I was and still running the bike in, today I twisted it back round 180 degrees and set it right but in the process (PICS BELOW) snapped the nut on the NUMBER 1 wire so thats loose, NUMBER 2 is done up tight, and if you look at the pics the plastic thing you line up with the hole one side is now missing...............
I lefted it like this put the screw back in the centre on it and took it for a spin round the block, I knew something was different as the exhaust noise was alot louder, pulled out my close and went up the hill only to get to 5k revs and the bloody thing nearly took my arms off, yes it was very responsive more then what it was before the rebore,
but the question is do I just leave it like it is, and put the outside cap back on, or get it sorted etc etc?? to be honest havent a clue where to start here
Ahh right, well for now you could pin the powervalve, put a screw of something through the hole to line it up, and remove the cables from the pulley. Then order the bolt from yammy, probably the best thing to do.
Right mate thanks for your help I knew you would sort it hahaha was just wondering is it ok to leave it like that obviously it is...............so to make sense, completely move the cables out so that means tank off and then do it that way.........and stick a screw in the hole bit, even though one side has snapped off mate did you see it in the pic???
Nah, literally undo the bolt in the middle of the pulley, take the cable ends off the pulley, replace the pulley (black bit), add the screw or w/e you can find to fit it, and replace the cap. Just leave the cables loose in there, they will move but its a quick fix, you wont leave it for long. Theres enough of a lip in on left side of the pulley(where its snapped off) to stop it turning mate.
Wont leave it to long mate but if I can get away with it till whenever I will, quite like it how it is, bike seems more rapid like it is a very responsive just how I like it thanks for your help mate I knew you could answer it !!!!!
mine is the manual powervalve and iv always thought pinned is better than servo theres more of a kick to it ... servo is much more trust worthy though, im desperate to get my hands on a 3wire servo and the houseing etc just hard to find at a low price :(
Mine has been pinned since I got it 5 months ago and I love it, so much fun for greenlaning once you get used to the power delivery.
Everyone says servo assisted is better and mine has a servo under the tank so I've ordered the cables and other bits a bobs needed to get the ypvs working, going to see how it rides but if I don't find it any better for greenlaning there will be a full ypvs system on here for sale soon lol.
I decided last nite out of interest to pin my pv to see what the difference was. Pretty fekkin awesome actually, it's quite brutal when the power suddenly hits, accelerates quicker too! No difference in top end tho, still sits just below 80mph as before.
Yeah no power bottom end tho, how do you guys put up with that for the ones who have it pinned all the time? Wasn't out for long as it was about 1030ish and freezking, but I just found it sooo slow when pulling off.
Some lads pulled up beside me and started giving it the beans at the lights...ah man a really terrible start but once i hit the powerband
Mines pinned but I don't tend to do mush road riding, just a mile of so between lanes. When I'm off road it's just a case of keeping the rev high then the powerband is never to far away, if I do find myself out the powerband a bit of clutch spins up the back wheel and quickly gets me back in the power
Well I've got my servo and powervalve cables now so I'm going to fit them the weekend and see how I get on. If anything I'll get better mpg and a bit more power lower down but I'm wondering if I'll miss the top end kick.
I'm also wondering if it will increase the top end as at the moment it gets to 60mph and seems to top out, it's got standard gearing but done the same with the 15 tooth front sprocket, I've taken the speedo restriction out but made no difference. Not that it bothers me as I don't often need to go faster than 60mph off road, just intrigued to see if it will make any difference.
S'up Kev :) Yeah keeping the revs high whilst on the move is defo the trick then. Thinking i might keep it pinned for a while, kinda like it. Any dangers of having it pinned tho, shouldn't be i'm thinking?
Um, my setup is all standard apart from full dep and earthing the wire behind the speedo - in fact for the year i've had the bike, I earthed the wire to the headlight bracket. The other nite I ran a new wire through the bike and straight onto the battery, now i'm not sure if it's me just thinking it's made a difference but I swear it is revving higher, i'm getting abit more from the gears and 5th take me up to 70mph which I couldn't get it to do before. I dunno, i put it down to a bad earth before perhaps.
When I first got me bike it was a real struggle for it to get to 60, a number of things such as a rusty holey exhaust, PV not setup right were the major culprits. More recently tho, since doing me top end it runs better still. All gears are much stronger than before, even 6th which was a gear I would just right off completely.
Have you done a top end rebuild Kev, i've can't remember if you did or didn't.
Hey Spartan, no not done the top end, just replaced the head gasket. I'm just going to run it until it pops then I'll give it a good strip and rebuild.
Mine pulls really well in the higher gears even pulls very well in 6th from quite low speeds, I've not got a rev counter but I can feel it has pulled past the powervalve in 6th at 60mph, It's almost like it's geared really low as its revving it's nuts off at 60mph. It's had a tzr engine fitted but I thought they were geared slightly longer, strange!
It shouldn't cause any damage pinning the powervalve as the early engines were designed to run like this and were only toned down to comply with UK laws, we just turn them back up again lol.
Sweet that's cool then, so before the time of servos all the engines must have had really poor power delivery in the lower revs?
Ahh gearing I dare not touch it for the time being for fear of my curiousity taking it apart to see how it works and then finding i can't put it back, I've had the side crank case off to have a look but that's as far as I got lol. Top end, not a problem for me but the bottom end...hmmm. My haynes makes it sound slightly daunting taking, i'm sure it isn't tho.
Well the UK versions just had poor power in general, think it was just a case of turning the powervalve 180 degrees and pinning it there rather than it being pinned in the lower power setting.
I've not messed with the gearing and I'm not sure you can, I've just experimented with different sprocket sizes. The smaller front sprocket just makes it accelerate quicker but still top out at 60mph but with higher revs. Bigger and it gets there slower and with slightly lower revs at 60 lol.
I know the tzr had slightly different gear ratios to the dt, I'm not sure that's why mine is doing what it's doing though. I'm happy with it as it is at the mo so I'm not that worried.
yes mate, removing the reed switch was my first port of call but didn't seem to make any difference.
I've not got a rev counter but definitely sounds and feels like it's at the end of the rev range at 60 but as soon as it drops below 60 like a steep hill for example it starts pulling hard again to maintain speed almost as if it is the reed switch, strange
I made sure when I refitted it it was flush with the exhaust port and as it's the diamond shaped type powervalve the black pulley was in the more power full position like this 8bhp ~ 14bhp powervalve restriction (diamond shape PVonly
I've just bagged the reed switch so maybe I'll tape it up tomorrow in case it's picking anything up from any other metal parts behind the head light.