Wait till ya get ya calliper, need to line it up so the disc will sit right before making the spacers.
i was going to get 2 spacers made exactly the same as standard incase i mess one up lol atm im lineing it all up for the sm wheel and makeing the bracket for my brembo twin pot.
found out my college has a press XD so hopefully i can use it if its a strong one and see if bradders can get me a collor my forks should be exactly the same as his so i really hope he still has the mesurements lol
think this is the end of this now i started to clean them erlyer and noticed these scabby things but arfter looking at them i think they can be removed and the forks still work
just a second ago i went to finish cleaning them and gave the fork bottoms a proppa good clean and uncoved theres patches of chrome that have flaked away and rust there one of them is far anuf down the leg not to worry but the outher is right near the top =[ and its £80 to re chrome then or about £80 for a new bottom part witch i cant aford and then makeing the forks with seals over £100 so then i dident really get a bargin.
oh **** toyman thos rusty stantions are ****ed m8 even if u clean every bit of rust off its gonna leave low spots n wen u compress the fork, oil is gonna bleed out, the alloy parts can be saved tho, i should be able to sort them out at home no probs, ill ask at work tomoz if they know wer i can get the legs re- chromed cheaper thn tht, they might be alright if there blasted, the old chrome taken right back n re done im not 100%
what if you strip the forks and powder coat the alluminium part and get the tubes re chromed, honestly you should be able to find somewhere to chrome them for less tha £25
what if you strip the forks and powder coat the alluminium part and get the tubes re chromed, honestly you should be able to find somewhere to chrome them for less tha £25
its getting the legs back in the clamps with out ****in them up as there tight in there as is,
update form the lest few days well my mates dep rusted throw he then had it welded witch weekend it and it wned up snaping he bought a new one £180 =0 thought fk that i better treat mine so pulled out the drill and wire brush XD
started on my rusty to **** dep
you can see just a small bit nice and shiny again XD
spreyed up
on the bike nice big dent lol
nice and close i like it alot just hope stones dont chip it off and make it look wank
then thought fkit im in work mood so started on stubbying my dep
look at the state of this **** im going to order new wadding next week so have the old **** stuff i cut down lol
well i got stupidly lucky i was cuting down the middle part and i just turned the grinder off took 2 steps and stood on the cable witch slid my hand up the grinder and my finger caught i was lucky i had switch off as it just was spining and my flesh made it stop if it was still runing i would of lost my finger for sure
stubby dep in paint lmao
i put my standard end can on that i got so i could still use the bike wile i was stubbying the dep and it only took 1 day so dident get to ride it with standard on quite shocked mind as it dident sound to bad with the stock pipe on
-- Edited by ToySoldier on Saturday 10th of March 2012 03:29:49 AM
Nice one Toy, well done for having a go too mate, as long as you follow the golden rule of 'measure twice, cut once ' you always get the job done right in the end mate.
-- Edited by NEV on Saturday 10th of March 2012 08:03:00 AM
mate i dont live with that rule i just cut haha nar say if i know how far i want to cut it ill cut it 10mm longer then go in with the file or dest grinder and make it nice and even i dident really make it that even but this was just a bodge lol when i get some new padding im going to clean and smoth over the end part might even grind of the paint on the top and try and polish that or do it a difrent coulor lol
look at this sexyness XD
this sounds a bit silly and not sure as i used the bike to go to my nans with standard on takes the hole some of 20 seconds to get there haha but it feels like the gear lasts longer and it pulls better? sounds silly lol
The tip is to use the flat square edge when you've removed the end 'cone' as a datum, using a 6"plate square carry on the line of the 4 holes, marking all 4 lines with felt tip. Again using the flat square end edge, mark where you're going to chop it, and then using a long cable tie around the exhaust line up all the chop measurement marks with the tightened up cable tie, draw around that with a felt tip take off the cable tie, you'll now have a line all around the exhaust, that you can cut to, either with a hacksaw, or a 4" cutting disc. then from the edge come in 8mm for each hole, drill 3mm hole, and all should line up and fit together.Job done.
i gave a 10mm space from the bracket then wraped some black electrical tape around the with a rule i checked it was the same spaced from the end to the line and it was then cut with a cuting disk 10mm from the tape then put the grinding disk on and went down to the line then peeled the tape off filed the burs off.
useing the part i had cut off with the holes i placed them butted togeather and mesured the space from the end to the rivit hole was 0.8th of a inch i think then mesured the 0.8th of a inch inwalds form the hole and placed a dot then with a 3mm drill bit drilled the holes placed the end in banged some 3mm self tappers in and jobs a gooden lol i only had 3mm last night went and got some 6mm and 8mm this moring so when i re pack it im going to drill the hole bigger and bang some 6mm's in